Veefer800Canuck Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 The manual says... The service intervals in this Maintenance Schedule are based on average riding conditions. Some items will need more frequent service if you ride in unusually wet or dusty areas or at full throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 The manual says... The service intervals in this Maintenance Schedule are based on average riding conditions. Some items will need more frequent service if you ride in unusually wet or dusty areas or at full throttle. I've seen Blackstone report in the forums at 8k and they said go another 2 or 3k miles and also another Blackstone report at 4k and they indicated it was time for a change. So it still comes out to how you ride in your environment......... If you wanna know for sure, test your oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 This has been enlightening. Thanks for the input, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 Probably not surprising with a base oil wt of 5. Technical speaking the first number (the "5" in 5w40) is only a relative number which basically indicates how easily it will allow an engine to "turn over" at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a 5w40 is NOT a 5 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 40 weight oil in warm temperatures... rather a 5W40 Rotella actual viscosity is 76 cTs at 104F (40C) and 13.8 cTs at 212F (100C) this test means the oil was heated to 100 degrees C and it flowed within a certain kinematic viscosity which is then classified with in a certain SAE grade like the "40" in 5w40). API ranks the first number and the letter W from the oldest to the newest on its ability to lube your engine during critical start up 15W 10W 5W 0W If you wish to employ the latest oil then you want an one with the latest API rank of 0W... I think the difference between the old15W and the newest 0W is like the difference between bias ply tires and radials... both will protect your rim but one has become superior... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 I don't think there's a single manufacture on the planet that recommends oil changes every 3000 miles. That came from the oil companies who want your money. Great job brainwashing everybody with commercials recommending 3000 mile oil changes. As far as a VFR goes , Honda built the thing and recommends oil change at 8K intervals with their Dino oil which is crap, if you check on this it rates amongst the lowest in quality. IMO a VFR will easily go 100k miles on any oil at any interval, maybe even a single oil change. Running on the recommended deno oil at 8K miles intervals would be no issue whatsoever so if you look at something like mobile 1 or some other Quality synthetic oil which should go at least 50% longer than the crap deno Honda oil and obviously 8K OL changes are unnecessary. I've got 105,000 miles on my 02 VFR beating the crap out of it and have gone over 10,000 miles on a single oil change. Obviously the only real answer would be a oil analysis test. But I don't believe the 3K oil change BS!!! True... 8K oil intervals will meet and exceed your mileage expectations because the engineers at Honda have tested the oil... in fact it doesn't matter to your engines longevity if you run Dino or Synthetic... or even 50 40 or 30 weight.... no one is wearing out their engine... but it does matter in the amount of rear wheel HP is wasted in unnecessary oil drag... between a 30wt and 40wt is 1 to 3 HP in unnecessary oil drag... between a 30 and 50 is 4 to 6 HP in unnecessary oil drag... choosing the freest flowing viscosity of 30 as prescribed by the official Honda manual over a 40 50 is smarter because it will: 1)increase HP at the rear wheel 2)quicken the throttle response coming out of the corners... 3)decrease over all operating temps... 4)increase the oil flow at the critical bearings... Any 30 grade will meet and exceed both your right wrist and your mileage expectations... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 Ahhh... the Winter blues oil thread... Came a little early this year... must be some furry caterpillars out there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Yeah, I was worried about the oil thread resurrection. Sorry about that. I weighed the pros and cons of the post, but I had to know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duccmann Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 The chin plastic behind the front wheel. ..black inner piece. .theres 4 allen bolts....just remove two left side...clips, what ever you call those little bastards , yes they hold both fairings together facing the floor. Dont have to pull fairing out more then a couple of inches to place filter wrench on the end of filter....been doing it this way for 5 years...pretty simple...let me know if it worked... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duccmann Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Two bolts, freeking cold out in that garage. Storms a comin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Do I have this right? A/B/C are actual allen head bolts on the left side. D/E are the plastic black screws facing the floor on the underside/bottom of the fairing halves F/G are the two inner allen head bolts reference in your foto above, behind the front wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 snip Honda built the thing and recommends oil change at 8K intervals with their Dino oil which is crap, if you check on this it rates amongst the lowest in quality. .snip Can you produce a reference to this claim regarding the quality of Honda's oil?, and which Honda oil are you referring to? Sorry not at the moment as I'm finishing out the year on the beach. But there are many oil analysis test of most brands, if you do a little bit of research I'm sure you'll find several on Google. My references are to the base Honda Dino oil but even there syn doesn't rate that good. You don't think Honda makes the stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 Personally I use the oil change as a time to do a full inspection of the bike, so taking off the fairings is part of checking the wiring behind them. I went with the 8k interval, so removing the fairings seemed to be no big deal and just became a ritual for me. Since the frequency of your oil changes was so frequent for you, it probably seemed to be more of a nucaunce to always having to remove them. If you're worried about the well nuts getting "over worked", I found a place local to us OC guys that has them for real cheap. I bought a couple of boxes to keep on hand, the little plastic clips however are either Honda or from Bolt. I like the Honda ones better, even though they're a bit pricey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 31, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2014 Ahhh... the Winter blues oil thread... Came a little early this year... must be some furry caterpillars out there... You nailed it !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 For those that want to see an oil lab analysis (Blackstone), here's mine: Hey Cogswell... we over here at ClubVFRSpain.es have just realized that that Nutella stuff your using is aimed more at tractors and diesel cars... and on the Shell Specs sheet they boast its superior resistence to shredding... thus maintaining optimum viscosity... and yet that's where the stuff fell short in your analysis!! Food for thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted January 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 8, 2015 I usually change around 3k but I don't sweat it if it goes to 5k or more (and it routinely does)... I use really good oil 8k in my opinion is pushing it for an oil that also does tranny and clutch work too... YMMV Only way to really know is send it in for lab analysis... I'm about to send in some 5k oil to see how it measures up. One disclaimer to my oil change frequencies... mother Honda may say it's ok to go 8k miles under "normal" conditions but my bike rarely sees below 6k rpms and usually is bouncing up and down from 8k - 12k rpms... I have probably put a total of <1,000 highway miles on my bike for as long as I've owned it. If possible, I always take the back roads... even if it adds hundreds of miles. Steady state cruising racking up miles in a short amount of time is less stress on the engine & oil... Full disclosure... I haven't read the owner's manual regarding oil changes so I don't know what it says... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer firebladestan Posted January 28, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 28, 2015 Fuchs Silkolene have an oil clinic where you can ask any question about any oil. These people really are the real deal. They have just won the British Superbike championship yet again. They are always more than helpful. Have a look at this link... http://www.fuchslubricants.com/oil-clinic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 if you really like the t6, okay, but you can do a lot better. My riding destroys t6 in about 1100 miles, just not worth bothering with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 For those that want to see an oil lab analysis (Blackstone), here's mine: EDITED OUT Hey Cogswell... we over here at ClubVFRSpain.es have just realized that that Nutella stuff your using is aimed more at tractors and diesel cars... and on the Shell Specs sheet they boast its superior resistence to shredding... thus maintaining optimum viscosity... and yet that's where the stuff fell short in your analysis!! Food for thought. The analysis points out that fuel can thin the oil... don't know how much since 0.5% isn't cautionary but its presence may have an effect on the viscosity... if you really like the t6, okay, but you can do a lot better. My riding destroys t6 in about 1100 miles, just not worth bothering with. Are you basing that on an oil analysis or seat of the pants opinion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRCCBR Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 So, from you guys that do it regularly.......what is the consensus on the best practice to take the sample for Blackstone. I ordered a kit but have not received it as of yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 So, from you guys that do it regularly.......what is the consensus on the best practice to take the sample for Blackstone. I ordered a kit but have not received it as of yet. Per Blackstone: Ride the bike for about 20 minutes to remove any moisture. Take the sample mid-stream so don't collect the first to come out and not the last to come out. Pulling it out of the filler hole might be easier but I haven't tried that yet. You can register and pay online and choose to have your report sent via email or send a check with the sample. Their FAQ is pretty humorous as well as informative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer carlitos92 Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 Also, BiLT gear is garbagio. This. Personally I use the oil change as a time to do a full inspection of the bike, so taking off the fairings is part of checking the wiring behind them. I went with the 8k interval, so removing the fairings seemed to be no big deal and just became a ritual for me. Also, this. I have a bag of several hundred of the black plastic pin fasteners as "spares." For the record, I'm one of the 8,000-mile crew. Yes, the gearbox feels crisper and the bike seems smoother on new oil (I've been using Actevo semi-synthetic lately) but I'll bet some portion of that is placebo effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 For those that want to see an oil lab analysis (Blackstone), here's mine: EDITED OUT Hey Cogswell... we over here at ClubVFRSpain.es have just realized that that Nutella stuff your using is aimed more at tractors and diesel cars... and on the Shell Specs sheet they boast its superior resistence to shredding... thus maintaining optimum viscosity... and yet that's where the stuff fell short in your analysis!! Food for thought. The analysis points out that fuel can thin the oil... don't know how much since 0.5% isn't cautionary but its presence may have an effect on the viscosity... if you really like the t6, okay, but you can do a lot better. My riding destroys t6 in about 1100 miles, just not worth bothering with. Are you basing that on an oil analysis or seat of the pants opinion? oil analysis, dropped a full grade by 1100 miles, its the oil I broke the bike in on the first 7 or 8,000 miles, and I was changing about every 1100 miles cause the oil looked so bad till I had it tested to confirm my eye was seeing., From my standpoint T6 and 10w40 car oil works about the same in a vfr. Both for short oci use. I upgraded at the time to 15w40 amsoil and that oil was good for double the mileage, and verified analysis also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRCCBR Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Thanks, Dutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 oil analysis, dropped a full grade by 1100 miles, Don't fear the shear... because the difference in viscosity between the grades is only 3 cSt and thats not 3 cSt thinner or thicker... the measurement is 3 cSt in more flow... 3 cSt in more flow doesn't risk increase wear... our modern engines protected by modern oils don't operate with in a narrow 3 cSt range of risk... Blackstone graded your oil by cSt testor... that means a quantity of oil was heated to a standard temp and the rate of flow was recorded by a stop watch... this flow-rate is governed by resistance of the oil flowing under gravity through the capillary tube, this test actually measures an oil’s kinematic viscosity. The viscosity is typically reported in centistokes (cSt), and is calculated from the time it takes oil to flow from the starting point to the stopping point using a calibration constant supplied for each tube... so a drop of one grade which is only a 3 cSt difference in flow is nothing to fear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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