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Another I Think I've Found Out Why My Battery Isn't Charging Thread! (R/r Plug)


SnoPro753

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Well, my 03' VFR with 98k miles wouldn't start after class this week, weak battery. I pushed it down a small slope and dropped the clutch in 1st and rode it home.

Tonight I pulled the fairing and this is what I found:

IMG_20140830_213808798-L.jpg

IMG_20140830_213922034-L.jpg

IMG_20140830_213934019-L.jpg

IMG_20140830_214317704-L.jpg

I measured the resistance between all 3 wires in the stator and got the same measurement. It was replaced 20k miles ago. I looked for continuity between the green wire in the R/R plug and ground. Nothing.

I think I need to replace the R/R and the stator side plug and connectors. Does the $10 R/R terminal repair kit from wiremybike.com include all the parts I need to replace the stator side of the plug?

Thanks in advance.

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yes it includes all you need. It uses terminal post, not plugs. I have a 2003 and my connectors fried last week, and wiremybike sent me the kit. Its a weak spot on the bike. Good to know your RR/stator are good, just replace the connector with the kit and you should be trouble free for some time.

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Well I couldn't get any voltage out of the stator wires so I pulled the engine cover and this is what I found:

IMG_20140831_133025366-L.jpg

I tried to follow Rick's Regulator/Recifier test and it failed. So now I think I need both a Stator and R/R. This is the third stator for this bike and the 2nd one only lasted 22,000 miles. Should I intstall a VFRness also?

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That stator looks like mine did. It took out a new rr and a new battery. Lucky though it didn't burn any wiring. You're lucky it didn't ignite.

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Brown color stator is oil related and not any indication of output... my stator is just as brown as yours but

the out put is in accordance to the shop manual.

Mr.RC45 quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my
bike into a crispy critter...

MeltedQD03.jpg

Apparently corrosion builds up between the quick disconnect pins
generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation...

Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric
grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem...

My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires
directly and seal with heat shrink tubing...

Like you I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire...

Pam Solloway of Coventry UK was on her way to Misano WSB when her
RC45 caught fire while stopped at a light due to an over heated R/R...
the flames were beat back by bottle water from a passing van... She
were lucky the incident did not happen out in the middle of nowhere
for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel lines and then the
tank... nothing is worst as watching bike flam-beau...

RC45ElectricalWireFire.JPG



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If I couldn't get any voltage between any of the phases during testing, would that indicate a burnt up stator? Wouldn't it put out a little voltage? (Maybe I was using the meter wrong)

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If I couldn't get any voltage between any of the phases during testing, would that indicate a burnt up starter? Wouldn't it put out a little voltage? (Maybe I was using the meter wrong)

All 3 phases failing at once is unheard of...

Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To

determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a

refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage...

12.8 or higher is a good battery...

12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge...

12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...

If your battery has passed everything up to this point you want to

determine with the engine running what is the voltage recharging the

battery... start the bike in neutral and establish a steady idle...

with a multi meter measure voltage at the + and - battery post. report

the voltage back to VFRD... now increase the RPMs up to 5000... you

should see steady volts or a slight increase... you should not see a

drop in volts as RPMs increase... 12.8 or higher It should be at least

a steady 13.8 Volts or higher... you want to determine with the engine

running what is the voltage 13.8 Volts you have either cabling issues,

or alternator issues.

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If I couldn't get any voltage between any of the phases during testing, would that indicate a burnt up stator? Wouldn't it put out a little voltage? (Maybe I was using the meter wrong)

doesn't make sense. Make sure your meter is in A/C mode not D/C when testing the output of the stator.

Also check stator wires to ground (using ohm meter) to make sure there is no shorting to ground going on.

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Signal. I measured resistance between phases and got 0.2 ohms on all three. There was also no continuity between each phase and ground. Last I started the bike and measured voltage between each two phases for all three combinations. I got no voltage at all. What could I have done wrong during this test? (Meter was on same voltage setting that showed 11.45 volts at battery. )

Ah crap. I bet I was on DC mode when I tested voltage output. Should've been AC. Maybe my stator isn't bad.

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Well I couldn't get any voltage out of the stator wires so I pulled the engine cover and this is what I found:

IMG_20140831_133025366-L.jpg

I tried to follow Rick's Regulator/Recifier test and it failed. So now I think I need both a Stator and R/R. This is the third stator for this bike and the 2nd one only lasted 22,000 miles. Should I intstall a VFRness also?

Like BLS said, they all pretty much look like that after some miles after so many had posted up on this site looking the same......

Whether it's always a sign that it's burnt/shorted out, I'm starting to doubt it too......

Curious,... does it have a burnt smell to it??

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I think if your do a search on stator or R/R you will find plenty posts.

Best is to search using google "VFRDISCUSSION stator" etc

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Does not matter if it's 09 or 03 they all have the same problem , 6th gen that is .

Not for you, but it does not matter if it's a Honda or Aprilia - all stator-r/r-based charging systems have the same problem. Stator is a sacrificial wear item made worse with shunt r/r (also a wear item due to heat). It's a cheap charging system made worse with small wiring and quick-connects that corrode. It has to be monitored (voltage meter) and maintained (connections and grounds routinely cleaned), including not pushing the battery beyond its service limit (not to failure, in other words).

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Does not matter if it's 09 or 03 they all have the same problem , 6th gen that is .

Not for you, but it does not matter if it's a Honda or Aprilia - all stator-r/r-based charging systems have the same problem. Stator is a sacrificial wear item made worse with shunt r/r (also a wear item due to heat). It's a cheap charging system made worse with small wiring and quick-connects that corrode. It has to be monitored (voltage meter) and maintained (connections and grounds routinely cleaned), including not pushing the battery beyond its service limit (not to failure, in other words).

That's way owner's that own a 03 -09 have modded it with better wiring,R\R and connectors .

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Mine was done it still fried the connector and the wiring but it could have already over heated before the recall. It had 1236 mile on it when the recall was done.

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