signal

Is that BMW an S1000RR? That looks super nice!

Super nice looking!

also for mild pulsating you can clean your bobbins and that will allow the rotor to float better. Lots of determination in this thread, one day I'll have to buy a dial indicator looks very useful

that's awesome, I just bought it! Along with RAM Mount RAP-300-1U, RAM-B-201U-A and RAM-B-202U.........all of that with my ram mount brake reservoir setup should allow my Passport S3 to work great on my bike with my uClear

I have the Valentine module that 'remotes' the speaker via cable to ear buds. However, this is not ideal as the wiring is a pain to deal with. Also, with additional headphones in the helmet for bluetooth to SENA, the whole set up is just messy (for lack of a better term). Now, if Valentine has a bluetooth module that can connect to the SENA, or thru my phone to the SENA, then that would be a better setup. Even with the V1 display in my peripheral vision, and the units' speaker volume (not fed to the ear bud) all the way up, I'm still likely to miss an alert until too late ... ACE It wouldn't necessarily need to be Valentine specific. If the adapter your using outputs a normal audio port (head phone jack), then you can buy a basic bluetooth "audio transmitter", which uses A2DP, and it should pair with your headset. You can plug anything into it and it should stream the audio. These things are typically $20 or so, check amazon or ebay for bluetooth audio transmitter.

The Givi V35 Side Bags with V46 Top Case are perfect for our bike. I recommend the PLXR panniers as they have quick release. All of this is waterproof and secure. Every now and then you will see Twisted Throttle or others with some of these items on clearance/scratch and dent because someone made a return. They have color matched panels, or paint ready panels you can buy and have painted. My wife has a Yamaha FZ6R in "Bluish Cocktail White", and I ordered her a full setup and having the panels painted this week.

Carlgustav, with the V1 do you use any special audio/visual remotes to allow you to see/hear whats going on with it, or can you hear it just fine with the volume turned all the way up?

Sounds like some good touring improvements. I would just say, your bike would look SOOOOO good with the Givi panniers and side bags vs. the Nelson Rigg.......just saying :) Also, if you don't have one already I highly recommend a Throttlemeister, Kaoko or similar throttle lock. If there is one thing I am so glad I have on long trips, its my throttlemeister! Other things to bring, compressor, plug kit, battery charger. A few powerlets would be good. One constant that you can charge from, and one switched that you can plug things into like your GPS. Do you have a GPS? In many cases a smart phone will do. By far some of the best mounts are RAM Mounts. You can buy a mount that uses the front tank screws, its perfect! Another option is using the steering stem, however I like to put a Powerlet there so I use the tank bolts for the RAM Mount. Brake reservoir is also a spot you can use a RAM mount. Keep an eye on the electrics. I realize you have a meter, but having a spare RR is not a bad idea, especially if your running the stocker. Buy a Ricks Motorsport one, its better than stock and you'll have it when you need it.

I am not overly concerned with it. Just wanted to make sure I didn't get the wrong part or that TechSpec was aware. No reason there cutter couldn't match the exact angle of the VFR800 02+, and it would keep the same function and look even better. I was impressed with Tech Spec because all their applications seem to be so perfectly laser cut for each geometry, so that's what I expected when I purchased. Don't get me wrong, I am not trying to make a big issue of this, I am just inquiring is all. As far as how they work, I wouldn't want to install them any lower (below the lower tank line) as that would look bad, but these would work much better if I could get my knees up just a little more. I am a bit short, 29" or so inseam. I thought about peg risers, which works fine for the left side as you can adjust the shifter, but not sure how that would effect the brake side of things. Other option which is on my wish list is Sato rear sets, but they only offer a 12.5mm rise at most (which is about 1/2 inch)........they look so good though.

Who states that? The Tech Spec website says VFR800, and doesn't list years. When you goto Twisted Throttle and Search by Bike, they come up and show the part as "Tech Spec Gripster set for VFR800 '98-'07"

I recently bought a set of TechSpec tank grips for my 2003 VFR800. I am concerned that the lines of the grips don't match with the lines of the tank. The top and bottom lines of the grip are parallel, just as the top and bottom lines of the tank are parallel. But the forward line is a different angle than the 02+ VFR800. The part they sell, 62-051-SS is the same part number for all VFR800's. The picture they show on their site of a VFR800 looks great, but its an earlier model than the 02+ and I am not sure if the tank lines/geometries are the same. ​Its possible they sent me the wrong grips, I am not sure, I am inquiring with them about it. The bag said the right part number, but it was a sticker, and underneath the sticker the bag was marked for a Triumph 675........... I am posting a picture, if someone with a 02+ VFR800 and TechSpec grips can let me know if this matches what they have. You can see the top and bottom lines of the tank match with the grip but the forward line does not.

Honda made a part for the 02+ VFR800, it was a carbon fiber look meter panel part 08F86-MCW-800. I am not sure if it was available in the USA, but its on Honda Access and seems to be available over seas. I contacted David Silver, but they can't get the part. I am hoping someone in the USA or abroad knows where i can get one. I can buy something very similar (perhaps even better), from Carbon Fiber Racing here in the states, but I like the look of the Honda part, and it will match my Honda factory carbon top plate cover perfectly. any help is much appreciated!

Nickel plated rims, awesome! Never seen that, I wonder where I could get that done? I wouldn't imagine a normal paint shop does that......any ideas?

From another post that I posted yesterday:Apparently the ECU isn't fooled by the O2-eliminator mod and when it enters closed loop mode, it tries to adjust the air/fuel ratio. Unfortunately, any adjustments the ECU makes won’t register because the O2-eliminators are sending a constant signal to the computer. So the ECU continues to adjusts the air/fuel mixture in a vain attempt to reach the stoichiometric ratio and it eventually leans out the air/fuel mixture so much that the engine loses a ton of power. When you twist the throttle a bit, the ECU leaves closed loop mode and goes back to the default map. The engine suddenly makes power again and the bike lurches violently forward. Ironically, the O2-eliminators are suppose to make the ECU think everything as just fine when it enters closed loop mode, but it instead has cause some bikes to surge severely. The trick around this is to prevent the bike from entering closed loop mode. This can be achieved by starting the bike before the ECU has a chance to complete its boot up cycle. Now, when you turn the ignition on, you see the digital gauges flash on once and then display normally. I believe this is caused by the ECU going though a boot up cycle. If you start the bike before the ECU finishes its boot up cycle, then it won’t go into closed loop later. My guess is that by starting the bike before the ECU boots up causes an error in the ECU. To protect the bike, the ECU loads the default map and sticks with it. So, once you turn the ignition on, start your bike immediately and you shouldn’t have any more surging issues. (Likewise, there’s no reason this wouldn’t work for bikes without O2-eliminators either). This is my start up procedure (which seems to work very well to avoid this surging problem): 1) Turn ignition on. 2) Put the bike into neutral. 3) Wait for the fuel pump to prime the fuel system. 4) Once FI system is primed, then in quick secession: turn ignition off, push the starter button, turn ignition on, release starter once bike starts. Has this been confirmed? It seems there are people out there that don't go through this procedure and everything is great. Myself however, when I hold throttle and go into closed loop mode (I have a PCV), I start to lose power! This post is rather old so I am trying to see if there is some more information learned by now since then. One theory of mine is that one or two of my o2 eliminators (they came with the PCV) may be bad.