Misspent Youth

I've got the Vacuumate and that's what allowed me to duplicate the factory 5th gen settings. Got lucky and found mine used. Great tool.

I've synced them flat (all the same) using a Twinmax (2 cyls at a time) and to factory spec (using Vacummate tool that allows precise setting, and allows measurement of rpm using vacuum). It ran great synced flat, better than trying to offset using traditional tools that aren't as accurate, but the factory spec offset is better still. Very smooth. It's key to keep returning the rpm to 1200 during the setting process. It takes a while to get it right, but should go faster in the future now that it's done properly. Bottom line is that flat sync is easier with traditional tools and will be fine if constantly reset to 1200 rpm, but offset's a little better, if done right. I suspect most shops wouldn't take the time to do it right, even if they knew how.

Check the 30 amp fuse for the starter relay, too.

I appreciate that it's apparently rare, but MBrane had the very same misfortune, hence my concern.

So, what should be doing or avoid doing to prevent this kind of failure? Or is it a manufacturing/material defect? I ride mine easy (but bought it used) and would hope to have it around a while.

Your left testicle is safe. I believe the piece is an oil galley plug from my Tecumseh-engined chipper/shredder. I recalled removing an allen-headed, threaded plug to install a plug and play oil dipstick this past summer. Thanks for the input, and sorry to all for the distraction. I was initially quite concerned I'd left off something substantial, for the safety and for the apparent loss of cognition. At least safety remains intact.

That certainly looks like that kind of function, but the shoulder's plating has no wear except where that aluminum ring rides up next to the head. Oh, and no Ducati. ZRX and Concours guys confirm it's not one of the bolts on those bikes. No word from Triumph guys. It's frustrating not to have any memory of this bolt. When I saw it my first thought was "omg, I left THAT off the VFR? And then rode it?" and that thought may have cleared my ram or damaged my hard drive (brain).

Last pint for you, mate, but thanks.

That's good news as to the VFR, but it's still driving me crazy. Thanks for the input. I always clean the work bench before Bigger Jobs, but several smaller jobs intervened while the VFR was apart - it's likely from one of those.

Might be time to weld the tool box shut. My 5th Gen spent 2 years on the lift because I was too busy to quickly do some relatively minor maintenance - clean/lube rear susp linkages, rear brake pivot, remove/lube sidestand, chg coolant, clean electrical connections, chg brake fluid, and remove/clean calipers. Rear wheel and muffler came off. Everything went together fine and the bike rides OK. Then I'm cleaning up the work area and putting away tools and found A LEFTOVER PART!! (pic below). I've disassembled the VFR several times and don't recall seeing this part. I regularly work on 4 bikes, a chipper shredder, and a power washer. I buy used parts that have extra stuff I don't need and remove for "later use". In other words, I'm not 100% positive the part comes from the VFR, or even a bike. I've been through the factory manual twice and don't see anything similar. Now I don't want to ride any of the bikes until I figure out which one is missing a possibly very important part. The ring around the middle is an aluminum spacer that, due to the wear pattern on the bolt, seems to go against the bolt's head. The bolt's face is flat. The wear suggests it's from the VFR due to age/miles, but the allen head suggests my Triumph speed triple (which doesn't appear to be missing any bolts - been through that manual, too). Anyone recognize this piece? Help!

Honda does a few things to reduce top speed, including adding timing cutouts in certain gears. Check out the latest Cycle story that includes review of the CB1000 (or whatever that retro is called) - they had to dyno it in 3rd gear due to the ECU limitations in the upper gears.

I've used a Throttle Tamer on my 5th Gen for 5 years now (installed with whatever heated grip blanket was on there when I got the bike) and it makes a big difference to the on/off throttle snatch prevalent on the 5th gen. Can't speak to 6th gen. I also had a pro dial in a PCIII to ease that transition, but he acted like he didn't understand how to get there, and just did a standard PCIII setup that smooths the lines (torque/hp), so, along with a good starter valve synch, I attribute the improvement to the Throttle Tamer. Keep in mind the V-4 will never be in-line 4 smooth, esp at lower speeds, but at least there's a way to help these early-days fuel injection setups.

I don't know if it will clear out the grease, but in your place I'd use spray electrical contact cleaner first. If I could contain overspray in the area, I'd also consider spray brake cleaner. As you've noted, dielectric grease is not to be used on contacts. I understand it should be used to seal the backs/sides of plastic connectors to keep water out of the connector.

My response doesn't help you, but I've never heard of that problem before in more than 10 years on/monitoring VFR boards. Unless it's the gear selector mechanism (can access w/o splitting cases), sounds like you'll have to find another engine/trans (may be easiest/cheapest) or pay to split the cases for a look (and freshening, while inside). Gear teeth, shift forks/drum, and gear dogs, are all possible problems.

Those part nos. correspond to the throttle cables for a 2008 ST 1300.