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Curious On Your Brake Mods - What Have You Done? Or Oem - -- Poll


mello dude

Your mods on 5th and 6th gen brakes  

37 members have voted

  1. 1. What have you upgraded/changed on your brakes? or Stayed - OEM

    • Stock
    • Major delink - new forks mod for new calipers plus the m/c and rear to new m/c for the rear caliper.
    • Upgraded to EBC HH pads on front - rear OEM pads
    • EBC HH pads, front and rear
    • SS lines on front and OEM pads - F/R
    • SS lines f/r plus EBC front
    • SS lines f/r plus EBC front and rear
    • Stock rotors
    • Aftermarket front rotor
    • Aftermarket rear roto
      0
    • Aftermarket front and rear.


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  • Member Contributer

Idea stolen from another member, but its a good question. Are your brakes stock or have you gone full boat and done

a delink? SS lines? Front? Rear? Aftermarket upgrades?

Just some fodder to foole with while sipping a cold one.

:beer:

:cool:

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25 answers to this question

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  • Member Contributer

I put in SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) and that's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and the Titax levers from a group buy several years ago. Other than that, with OEM pads, the bike stops when I pull the lever. Good to go.

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I voted based on my 6 Gen as these mods will also be applied to my 5 Gen. SS Lines F/R and EBC HH pads F/R. Although I was considering adding aftermarket rotors to both, but that is a back burner to other things I would like to do. If I can find full floating disk, that's the way I would go, otherwise leaving stock rotors on for now. Both bikes still have linked brakes.

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Galfer lines, EBC front rotors, HH pads F&R, rebuilt calipers, and MCs. I've howled the the front on a few occasions, and the lever has never been close to the grip. The only reason I have EBC rotors on the front is the sticking calipers warping the stockers. I'm sure rebuilding the calipers sooner would have saved the stock rotors, but these are the lessons we learn. The EBC rotors are holding up well.

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I'm with you mello dude, have the parts collected to delink the brakes I'm not a big fan of. Vtr1000 fork legs, cbr954 calipers, cbr600rr 2004 brake master 5/8 bore, cbr600f4i rear brake master, lines to be made up after all is fitted and some wave discs. Mello dude fender adapters.

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I put in SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) and that's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and the Titax levers from a group buy several years ago. Other than that, with OEM pads, the bike stops when I pull the lever. Good to go.

Tell me about this "SuperBlue". I want something banned on my bike. is it a better fluid?

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... SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) ...

*** Plugging ears *** La la la la la. I didn't hear this. La la la la la.

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I put in SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) and that's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and the Titax levers from a group buy several years ago. Other than that, with OEM pads, the bike stops when I pull the lever. Good to go.

Tell me about this "SuperBlue". I want something banned on my bike. is it a better fluid?

Recalled due to it being the wrong color for a DOT4 fluid.

If you're looking for a great performance brake fluid, look into Motul RBF600. Ferodo makes a great fluid as well.

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I put in SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) and that's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and the Titax levers from a group buy several years ago. Other than that, with OEM pads, the bike stops when I pull the lever. Good to go.

Tell me about this "SuperBlue". I want something banned on my bike. is it a better fluid?

Recalled due to it being the wrong color for a DOT4 fluid.

Good thing I still have two full unopened tins on the shelf.

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Looked it up. I guess we are to learn what fluid is what by the color and not just READING WHAT IT IS!

Good thing they saved me from filling my window cleaning fluid bottle with Brake fluid.

Coolant - Orange? Yellow? Green? Red?

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  • Member Contributer

I put in SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) and that's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and the Titax levers from a group buy several years ago. Other than that, with OEM pads, the bike stops when I pull the lever. Good to go.

Tell me about this "SuperBlue". I want something banned on my bike. is it a better fluid?

The idea is that it makes it much easier to flush the fluid when you alternate between the clear and the blue; it is readily obvious when all the old fluid is out. As others said, in the US the DOT started enforcing the fluid "color" regulations to the letter.

... SuperBlue fluid (that is now banned, apparently) ...

*** Plugging ears *** La la la la la. I didn't hear this. La la la la la.

What's the issue? Was there an "oil thread" - level controversy over this stuff and I missed it? In any case, I didn't ever use it because I thought it was the best stuff out there, or that it was going to magically make my braking better - and I've never tried to sell anyone on it. It meets DOT4. Done. Now that I can't get it, I'll probably use whatever DOT4 Wal-Mart sells. :ph34r:

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Full set of Spiegler SS Lines F/R for linked brakes (like 9 hoses and matched with SS clutch line too) and EBC HH pads F/R... Valvoline synthetic brake fluid provides the push

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Just front SS lines for me with OEM pads which frankly are just as good as any aftermarket pads I have tried, performance-wise......plus they tend to be kinder on the discs.

Still stock rubber brake line on the rear brake as it's really just a "trimming" brake for me and most of the real braking is always done with my front brakes....

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fwiw, the Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid you can get at the local dealership for about ~$5 has similar dry/wet boiling points to SuperBlue at a 1/3 of the price and no shipping to deal with.

Used both brands on many track days in my cars.

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fwiw, the Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid you can get at the local dealership for about ~$5 has similar dry/wet boiling points to SuperBlue at a 1/3 of the price and no shipping to deal with.

Used both brands on many track days in my cars.

Isn't that DOT3?

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I've been looking at the linked brake diagrams for 5th and 6th gens and it looks like it would be pretty easy to change the 5th gen system to work more like the 6th gen (front brake uses 5 pistons up front instead of 4, rear brake only uses 1 up front instead of 2). I'm wondering if it would be worth it. Is the 6th gen system generally accepted to be better?

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I've been looking at the linked brake diagrams for 5th and 6th gens and it looks like it would be pretty easy to change the 5th gen system to work more like the 6th gen (front brake uses 5 pistons up front instead of 4, rear brake only uses 1 up front instead of 2). I'm wondering if it would be worth it. Is the 6th gen system generally accepted to be better?

I like my 6 Gen brakes better, but maybe it's because I have steel braided lines on my 6 Gen. I pondered doing a switch as well (6 Gen on the 5 Gen). It looks simple enough but I think there's a slight difference in the where the "hard" lines end up and I believe the rear proportion valve would need to be swapped and it's in an entirely different location on the two bikes. So in all honesty, if you are going to go through the trouble do that it, might be better to just do a de-link, and put better calipers/mc's on. Now that I have my Christmas bonus money in the bank, I'm ordering up new steel braided lines for the 5 Gen and let you know if the difference lessens.

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My idea was to just remove the line running from the delay valve to the right front caliper, and then connect a short line from the outer pistons to the inner, similar to how people connect all the pistons on the rear caliper when they de-link.

post-28449-0-84754700-1388264102.jpg

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Full delink

2005 R1 forks

SS lines

Stock monoblock radial 4 piston calipers

Brembo front radial master cylinder

Stock rear caliper and master using all 3 pistons

I need to fit an F4i rear master cylinder and SS lines soon though

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