Havagan

Ditto. SR1 for the track and Arai Signet for the street.

I have the SR1 -- great helmet and the SR2 should be just as good.

Install a volt meter for peace of mind -- watching your voltage while riding can help identify problems you wouldn't see just sitting in your garage like a loose/dodgy connection.

For perspective, here are the things I've had to do for my 6th gen VFR (and its only average for mileage) beyond chains, brake pads, and fluids. * Front brake rotors, steering head bearings, fuel pressure regulator, and cleaned fuel injectors at 60,000 miles (96k km). * Front wheel bearings at 68,000 miles (109k km). * Stator and r/r at 70,000 miles (112k km). * Cam chain tensioner at 80,000 miles (128k km). You're good for a bit.

You have to pry off the axle collar if there is any kind of corrosion/crud before you can get that axle out. Check out this video at 4:39 in -- its basically how I had to do mine, with two large flat bladed screwdrivers as pry bars.

No, I sold the 900SS about a year ago. Got the big twin itch again and sold the FZ1 to make room for this one. Total cream puff with 8K miles and in perfect condition beyond the spooged windscreen.

My newest addition to the garage.

I never got smoke from near the right handlebar, but when my bike (65,000 miles at the time) had an issue with stalling and then hard starting it was due to a failing pressure regulator. Fuel Pressure Regulator explained:

Melka? I've used Pro Flow a couple of times also and been happy with the results.

Late to respond here, but the cush drive assembly doesn't always just fall off once you remove the nut and washer. You have to pry off the axle collar if it there is any kind of corrosion/crud. Check out this video at 4:39 in.

The install video on his website and his profile page here on VFRd show his email as "tilton@gmail.com" -- no idea if it's still active but you can give it a shot.

I just checked my service manual and the assembly instructions don't say anything about greasing the mating surface between the bearing holder and the swing arm. That said, it also doesn't say to grease the axle and that just seems odd. I greased both. My rule of thumb is a light coating of grease on any machined surface that meets another machined surface -- YMMV. If you want to apply grease, yes, your Castrol LM is fine based on it saying it is suitable for "wheel bearings" and a quick Google says it's NLGI grade 2.

I run S21's and never had any grip issues with them. I had a problem with Q3's (splitting) and never went back to Dunlop -- can't comment on Q3+ or Q4.

My jaw dropped when I went window shopping last week and found a brand new left over 8th gen for $7500.

Measurements off a Honda OEM crush washer are: 12.3 mm ID 19.75 mm OD 1.9 mm thickness https://www.mcmaster.com/#97725a104/=1d8336g https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolt-MC-Hardware-Crush-Washer-M12-x-20-DPWM12-20-50-020-122050-501-183/262151769936?epid=1411792329&hash=item3d09768f50:g:Be8AAOSwtBdaWNQv As JHZ said, any M12 x 20mm crush washer will work.