race549

Selling a Two Brothers header for a 1997 VFR750F. I have had this for many years but it never made it on to my bike since it has been sitting around as a project for a long time. The headers are in good shape. It looks like one of the left header pipe was cut and rewelded on at some point. Letting them go for $150 plus shipping from Arizona 85254.

Selling two Givi hard panniers and the Givi mounting system from my 1997 VFR750F. They are a little dusty but they'll clean up nice $250 for everything plus shipping from 85254. d mounting system for my 1997 VFR750F

Thank you!

Can any one confirm if the 90-93 swingarm is the same as the 94-97? It looks like it is based on the OEM parts diagrams I found on line, but I'd like to confirm with you guys. Thank you!

Ok thank you! I’ll try the screw drivers and the vice grips idea. The guy a bought the bike from years ago lived literally neaxt to the beach, so I suspect the whole darn thing is full of rust. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Thank you! Yes I tried with a 5 lb sledge hammer and a wood block. Still isn’t budging. I can see some corrosion around where the collar and axle meet, so that has to be the problem. I guess I have to just keep at it. Thanks again!

Any suggestions for removing the axle if it is seized? I have been dealing with it for a week and can’t get the darn thing out.

Hey guys, I need to replace the rear disk break on my 1997 vfr750 and I am having more trouble than I expected at removing the rear axle. I was able to remove the left side nut and lockwasher, but the collar just wont come out. As I understand it, once I remove that collar I should be able to just slide out the axle, but it just wont budge. I have been spraying liquid wrench in every nook and cranny and banging on the darn thing with a rubber hammer to try to slide out the axle, but it just wont budge. It is almost as if that collar is just fused on there. Any suggestions as to what I can do? Thank you!

thanks for all the responses guys. I have had a few back and forth emails with Jamie Daugherty about it because I am also considering one of his 929 rear shocks (great guy and very responsive). His only concern with the shorter front end is an instability created in the front due to the decrease in trail. I am not sure there is any way of bringing the CBR forks to a stock VFR length without an expensive custom job for fork extensions or modified triples. At this point I'll probably just ride it once it's all bolted together and see how it goes.

thanks guys, I should have everything installed in a few weeks. I'll definitely check all the clearances.

Thank you Scottay951. I have a rebuilt CBR900RR front end with a 17" CBR600F3 rim so I don't want to spend on another front end. I guess we'll see how it feels.

I read before about a common swap for the vfr with CBR900rr front end. Has anyone done this on their 4th generation? the CBR900rr front forks are a bit shorter by about 1", any compensation needed with the rear shock to maintain a correct geometry? thanks

She's back on the road. Thank you for helping me sort this out glL429. Turns out that after removing the purve valve and the Evap control valve, all i needed to do is plug the 1/4 inch tubing from the purge valve to the intake. All the other larger purge tubing got rerouted towards back of motor.

Here are some pics of the items I was talking about Like I mentioned in the previous post, the 1/4 tubing attached to the Evap Control Valve was connected by a "T" to both pair valves. Does anything need to happen to this valve and related tubing? What about the Purge Control valve? Could any part of this system be the source of my problem now that the pair valves have been removed and can any of it be removed/adjusted to make it run properly? Thanks again guys!

Timmy, I found the attached diagram for a CBR1000RR that shows pretty well how the pair system works on that bike. I figured it would be a symilar concept on the vfr. I am still having a hard time finding where the problem is coming from. Again, symptoms are: starts and idles fine 1-3k rpm runs fine 3-6k rpm hesitation 6k and up pulls fine None of these symptoms were there prior to the pair valve removal. I plugged all the exhaust ports by cutting the mount ends of the chrome tubing, welded the holes, and used new gaskets. I removed all 4 brass fittings on the intakes, replaced them with 4 screws off the pair valves, and used new washers from honda. Airbox tubing mounts have been plugged. There is a small valve on the side of the carburator which had a small 1/4" tubing connected to the pair valves (it had a "T" that went to each pair valve. On the macrofiche it is item #43 ("VALVE ASSY.") http://hawkworks.net/VFR750F-1997-fiche/carburetor_assembly.html What does that valve do and how is it related to the pair system? Should that tubing be plugged as well? I plugged it and it did not make any difference. Also there is another valve, called "purge valve", # 8 on the macrofiche http://hawkworks.net/VFR750F-1997-fiche/canister.html I have no canister on my bike, so the tubing to the canister is open to air. This system appears to be completely independed, but would not having a canister affect performance after removing the pair valve system... I don't know... just thinking out laud at this point. Thanks again for the help guys.... pairsmogCBR1000RR.pdf