M0T0RIDER3737

Update for everyone, the MAP sensor has been replaced (along with all the vacuum lines as a precaution) and she is now running as normal, which I'm glad about since if that didn't work the next step according to the workshop manual was to test with a known good ECU, but I would like to thank Grum again for giving me a hand with this one, his help in giving me a starting point was definitely appreciated. AAlsoincase anyone else needs to clear DTCs for any other type of problem I have included a picture of a little "tool" I rigged up, normally I would use this for old school cars at work that used flash codes, but proved to be just as handy on the bike too, it's just some old male wiring terminals connected to a switch but trust me, makes clearing DTCs with out a computer so much easier/quicker

Yeah sorry, those tests were what I meant when I said I checked the harness, but thanks for the advice, it was a real help having a starting point, I'll update once I get a new sensor

I have already tested both the voltage of the VCC and continuity of the sensor wire to the ECM, they are fine, (tested multiple times just incase) and I am 100% sure the vacuum hoses are all connected correctly and are not perished, slipt etc. I also attempted to clear the DTC a few times, didn't seem to change anything, at this point there is really only one point of failure based on all of the testing and diagnostics I have done, that being said the manual does state to test with a known good sensor, which is pretty much the only thing i haven't done at this point

So update for everyone, after returning to the bike with a more comprehensive assortment of tools, I have removed the airbox, inspected all the vacuum lines underneath, they are all in perfect order, did some testing if the engine harness, no issues there, have carried out the DTC clear procedure, how ever symptoms still occur (Flashing engine light etc), did some testing of fuel pressure (advice from a guy at work, probably pointless but good to check while I'm in there) which is all good, at this stage it is looking like failure of the MAP sensor, though the manual says next step is to test with a known good sensor, which I may just have to bite the bullet and buy one and just hope for the best.

Will do, thanks for the assist

Yes I have the workshop manual, this is the next step I was going to take anyway, but will need to wait till Monday to get some tools (ie multimeter)

Haven't ridden it, from experience (I work as a car mechanic) flashing engine light can mean something bad, though it doesn't seem to be the case this time, I'll have to get back to you on the hose situation as I'm currently lacking the tools (there at my work) to do much right now, if all the hoses are ok what would you recommend as the next step?

The battery it brand new, or near enough, the only thing under the tank that was done was plugs and air filter at least 6 months ago, was running fine yesterday, no issues till today, though following what you said, battery is charging normally and all connections are good

Hey all just wanted to find out if anyone has had a similar issue, when to start the bike, it was a bit slow to crank and very low rpm at idle, about 900 or so, the engine light is flashing twice with a long pause between, but no codes seem to be stored, after bridging the connector, the light just stayed on, so far as I can determine it might be the MAP sensor, but I'm unsure, any help would be greatly appreciated. Video if light when running us included. 20200719_114039.mp4

cheers for all the help guys, just wanted to make sure before i start pulling it apart, i have done chain and sprockets before, just not on a bike with a single sided swing arm, and not this one specifically

hey all, i'm about the carry out a chain and sprocket replacement on my bike, the question i have is, looking at the rear sprocket assembly it doesn't look like the hub nut needs to come off to do the replacement, i'm probably wrong, which is why i also bought a 46mm socket just incase, TL;DR can i get the rear sprocket off without dismantling part of the rear hub assembly? thanks in advance and sorry if this has been asked before, i couldn't find anything when i searched for it.

Thanks for all the help ( Big thanks to JHZ) everything whent mostly alright, though the axel assembly was a bit of prick to get out (lots of hammering was involved), but the new rotor and pads are in and nothing was broken in the process, so I would call that a win.

just to clarify does the chain and sprocket carrier need to be removed at all during this process or can they remain in place with the hub removed? also I am assuming the bearing pinch bolt will also need to be loosened, is this correct?

unfortunately this isn't what I'm looking for, I already checked my owner's manual for infor, thanks for the assist anyway

the rotor is pretty close to the min thickness and has considerable run out and is a bit warped