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Cam Chain Tensioner, Without Throttle Body Removal


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you have to put the screw in the top of the tensioner, or else it will do that. #12 plus the washer

Thank you. Totally spaced this one out. This is my problem.

Edited by SnoPro753
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Ok, I am not a writer. I don't have the witty banter abilities of great technical writers who pull you into their project no matter the subject. Instead I am a typical desk jockey who rides VFR and

From what I hear you need a crows foot wrench and extension. IMO just do the gasket mod, install a new auto tensioner and live happily ever after.

I would rather change out auto CCT's every 30,000 miles, than adjust manual CCT's every 3,000 miles. I am not a fan of adding maintenance and complexity unless it adds Horsepower or makes you faster.

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I think when my VTEC's valves get out of spec and the CCT's go bad, rather than deal with all this I'm going to hunt down a 5th gen motor and make the swap that HighSideNZ did. I hope I'm up to the challenge . . .

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I think when my VTEC's valves get out of spec and the CCT's go bad, rather than deal with all this I'm going to hunt down a 5th gen motor and make the swap that HighSideNZ did. I hope I'm up to the challenge . . .

I'll take the 6th gen motor.

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you have to put the screw in the top of the tensioner, or else it will do that. #12 plus the washer

Thank you. Totally spaced this one out. This is my problem.

How fast does it pour out, was this the front or the rear, just curious how much pressure the flow has? modded gasket or standard?

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  • 2 months later...

Not sure if anyone still active on this post. When installing a manual cct is there room in there to get a wrench on the locknut on the new cct from the side?

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Not sure if anyone still active on this post. When installing a manual cct is there room in there to get a wrench on the locknut on the new cct from the side?

From what I hear you need a crows foot wrench and extension.

IMO just do the gasket mod, install a new auto tensioner and live happily ever after.

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Not sure if anyone still active on this post. When installing a manual cct is there room in there to get a wrench on the locknut on the new cct from the side?

From what I hear you need a crows foot wrench and extension.

IMO just do the gasket mod, install a new auto tensioner and live happily ever after.

+1 .

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  • 4 months later...

Sorry to revive a dead thread, however, does the bike needs to be set to TDC (top dead center) before removing the CCT? I'm getting mixed opinions on the matter.

I did not set mine to TDC when I did mine I just removed and replaced 1 at a time and also enlarged the oil passage in the Gasket as per "SPUDS" post's

Then wound the motor over by hand 2 or three times to make sure there was no interference

Then just started the bike as normal and listened to the sweet sound of NO MORE chain slap / tensioner rattle

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Sorry to revive a dead thread, however, does the bike needs to be set to TDC (top dead center) before removing the CCT? I'm getting mixed opinions on the matter.

No ..

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Maybe they're thinking of valve adjustments. The CCTs don't know where the crank or cams are at in their rotation - they're just pressing against the chain.

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  • 8 months later...

Just when you thought everybody was covered on this topic.

 

From personal experience.  

Tapping the threaded holes for the front cam chain adjuster is miserable.  So don't be like me and don't be lazy.  Pull the airbox, pull the coolant line and take your time.

I didn't and seriously wish I would have.  (made this otherwise 2 hour project 5 hours and lots of stress).

 

I'm only 4k miles from home on a work trip.  (probably not the best time to be doing this type of work). 

using a co-workers rental condo landlords standard tool set.

 

I installed APE Racing units.  And the guys at APE racing are fantastic.  

However, he did recommend installing the manual cam adjusters at TDC.   I'm not 100% why?  But that's what I did.

also important to note:  a short wrench might be required or a crows foot to tighten the locknut on the forward cylinder. 

I had neither and this only made the job that much harder.

 

Otherwise my "Sounds like a connecting rod coming through the side of a motor" cam chain noise at 37k is finally gone.  Jeez that was a noise I didn't like hearing.

 

also from APE Racing,  "Don't make this adjustment out to be more than it is. 

Finger, yes finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn on the adjustment and lock in place).  That's it you are done."

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

You adjust the manual cam chain tensioner when you hear a rattle.

 

or more likely,. Every oil change just because or every valve adjustment

or somewhere in between.

 

candyredrc46.

with the work/time/ knowledge you have with your vfr I'm surprised you haven't gone this route.

after researching the auto cct and seeing a trend with people replacing more than once I got manual.  

Purchase once and adjust as needed with no replacement required again.  Just adjusting if required.

 

 

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Quote

 

 

 

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I would rather change out auto CCT's every 30,000 miles, than adjust manual CCT's every 3,000 miles. I am not a fan of adding maintenance and complexity unless it adds Horsepower or makes you faster. I would use manual CCT's if they were worth a few hp lol.

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  • 4 months later...

I took the key out of my new CCT, the shaft extended and now I don't know what to do...

 

Going to change my front CCT tomorrow so I'm reviewing this excellent thread to get ready. Gathering tools, found the purchased CCT and while looking at it, well, I uh removed the key. And the shaft extended. And now I can't figure out how to retract it.

I'm assuming it should be retracted when replacing? 

 

CCT_smh.jpg

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On 12/2/2016 at 5:13 PM, Phongeer said:

Disregard, Youtube to the rescue!

It has been known to come in handy! Amazing what you can find on YouTube.

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  • 5 months later...

just followed this guide on my 2011 vfr800 with only 40,000km it had started to rattle after a low side, then a 6 month sitting in the garage while my bones re grew.  (insurance did a full new set of fairings and panniers and anything else with a scratch on it and i did an oil change before the first ride)

 

i found it surprisingly easy, as i was also doing a coolant change too, i just did it when the coolant was drained out of it. 

 

interesting i was sure it was going to be a noisy front one, so i did that first, starrted it up, rattle little quieter but still their, so i did the back one, which i found the hardest as it leaks oil and the key wouldn't stay in so i had to hold it in place while i undid it. 

 

started it up, very very quiet. like a new bike again. except with the full motard decat system and debaffled stain tunes.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Opening this up for another question.  At the start of this thread, there is mention of a "key" above and below the 7th photo.  I know there are two bolts on either side of the CCT, and there appears to be a bolt at the center of the CCT that is also removed.  Are the pliers being used to grasp the key while the CCT is pulled from the case to prevent the shaft of the CCT from extending ?   If so, do you apply a pulling force to the pliers, or do you use the pliers to keep the key in place while you remove the CCT?

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