spud786 Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Compare to most aftermarkets the stators are, the cct's different story. I never had any noise on the rear cct, till about 90.000 miles though. The front one I replaced at 30,000 mile and it rattled like day #2. So thats two Ive bought, I almost bought a manual one, when that rear one started rattling, but there was some error in my purchase so I took it as a sign and went oem instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redlad Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hey guys and gals im new to the site and have a bit of a prob with my cam chain tensioner problem is ITS NOT THERE well not as shown in the pics anyone know where else it could be or what else i can do to get that nasty rattle out of my bike i have pulled throttle body off and everything and nothing had a friend come over and he cant figure it out either Here is a pic i took of my bike with air breather and bits removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hey guys and gals im new to the site and have a bit of a prob with my cam chain tensioner problem is ITS NOT THERE well not as shown in the pics anyone know where else it could be or what else i can do to get that nasty rattle out of my bike i have pulled throttle body off and everything and nothing had a friend come over and he cant figure it out either Here is a pic i took of my bike with air breather and bits removed Looks like your working on a 5th gen VFR 98-01 which Don't have CCT's and Not the 6th gen (Vtec) 02-09 . What year is your bike? BR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redlad Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) Yea its a 01 vfr 800fi do you know if there is a way to tighten up the gears or what do i do with this has my head wrecked all day love me little baby have to get her well and out in the air soon Edited May 12, 2013 by redlad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redlad Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 for some unknown reason i cant upload the video it wont let me says i dont have permission but tried pulling the clutch and still knocking best i can describe it is that it sounds like its coming from the back exaust under the cover could it be a valve?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 for some unknown reason i cant upload the video it wont let me says i dont have permission but tried pulling the clutch and still knocking best i can describe it is that it sounds like its coming from the back exaust under the cover could it be a valve?????? That's strange.... Any loss in power from previous the knock??......I would think a valve problem would exhibit such.... I doubt if it has anything to do with the gear drive on the cams as there is really nothing to break there and cause the knocking, plus any bit of gear lash at the cam gears is usually handled by the split gear system that Honda designed for them that's also designed to reduce (but does not eliminate) the whining noise from the straight cut cam gears.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redlad Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 for some unknown reason i cant upload the video it wont let me says i dont have permission but tried pulling the clutch and still knocking best i can describe it is that it sounds like its coming from the back exaust under the cover could it be a valve?????? That's strange.... Any loss in power from previous the knock??......I would think a valve problem would exhibit such.... I doubt if it has anything to do with the gear drive on the cams as there is really nothing to break there and cause the knocking, plus any bit of gear lash at the cam gears is usually handled by the split gear system that Honda designed for them that's also designed to reduce (but does not eliminate) the whining noise from the straight cut cam gears....[/quote Im going checking the valves today but to be honest i might as well be looking into a barrel of water i don't have a clue what to be looking for but only one way Im going to learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR1200fromDownUnder Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) About to do mine, I have a rattle and 95000km on an '02. Let you know the outcome Edited February 7, 2014 by vfr800downunder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleTurtle Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I replaced the rear CCT this morning, no issues. Started the bike, the previous noise was gone, a problem solved ... so I thought! However, as I had bought the pair of CCTs I went on to do the rear for a full belt and braces approach, cue a bit of a disaster. On inserting the new CCT I had a small alignment issue due to restricted space, on slightly withdrawing the CCT to realign it I accidentally knocked off the new metal cap, which has fallen loose into the bowels of my engine. After much cursing I spent a good hour trying to get a magnet on a telescopic stick in there, alas the one I have it a little to big for the aperture. I've got a much smaller, more flexible one on order from Amazon, hopefully this will allow me to retrieve the cap. Failing that, I guess its a engine out job? I feel so stupid, I'm normally pretty competent with home repairs but was struggling a little with the limited space down there next to the frame rails, a moment of not paying precise attention may end up costing me dear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I have never understood why the damn cap has to be so loose-fitting. Chin up and try a supermagent on a string or thin wire. Maybe removing the sump would suffice instead of entire engine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveb77 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I replaced the rear CCT this morning, no issues. Started the bike, the previous noise was gone, a problem solved ... so I thought! However, as I had bought the pair of CCTs I went on to do the rear for a full belt and braces approach, cue a bit of a disaster. On inserting the new CCT I had a small alignment issue due to restricted space, on slightly withdrawing the CCT to realign it I accidentally knocked off the new metal cap, which has fallen loose into the bowels of my engine. After much cursing I spent a good hour trying to get a magnet on a telescopic stick in there, alas the one I have it a little to big for the aperture. I've got a much smaller, more flexible one on order from Amazon, hopefully this will allow me to retrieve the cap. Failing that, I guess its a engine out job? I feel so stupid, I'm normally pretty competent with home repairs but was struggling a little with the limited space down there next to the frame rails, a moment of not paying precise attention may end up costing me dear! You should only have to take the clutch cover off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 (edited) You might try some real Heavy weed wacker plastic string, and cut off a telescopic magnet (about 1 inch long) and duct tape it to the string. Im not sure if the rear cap has a safe zone hiding place like the front , if it falls off. Edited April 27, 2014 by spud786 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2014 About to do mine, I have a rattle and 95000km on an '02. Let you know the outcome I know it's Monday mourning quart backing BUT I would crimp it some how . I would try notching the metal cap and then crimp the notch into the plastic . If you retrieve it !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 You could just squeeze the sides of the metal cap, it will fit tighter that way. Recently I ran without a cap for a few thousand miles, this pressure on the rubber tip evidently expanded it slightly, the cap I installed, fit really nice, and fairly tight, tighter than Id ever seen one fit, which is normaly just snug enough not to fall off if you turn it upside down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleTurtle Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 With about 90 minutes poking about with a 4mm magnet on a wire I eventually managed to retrieve the cap - hardest bit was getting it properly aligned inside the engine case to withdraw out cleanly - relived doesn't cover it! Just off to attempt re-fit #2 now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Congratulations on your success!!! I can appreciate that feeling Did you hit the cap fairly easily, the hard part just getting it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2014 With about 90 minutes poking about with a 4mm magnet on a wire I eventually managed to retrieve the cap - hardest bit was getting it properly aligned inside the engine case to withdraw out cleanly - relived doesn't cover it! Just off to attempt re-fit #2 now! Welcome PurpleTurtle and the wire and magnet deal was what I suggested for Spud but he got it out another way. I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Nope, I never found what I was looking for, it sounds like he used a worm, which is a copper wire with a 4mm magnet. I couldn't find anything with it though. Course mine was a front one missing, Im not sure if the rear one has a safe zone for the cap to hide, so glad he found it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qwerc Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Can someone mebay explain to me what is actually goes failure in a CCT.The mechanical consturctie is not so complex, I think. Of course one says wear, but then what?I do not understand a f***! And my VTEC ratlles like hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 12, 2014 Does this help .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer NorthernVFRDave Posted May 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 12, 2014 Can someone mebay explain to me what is actually goes failure in a CCT. The mechanical consturctie is not so complex, I think. Of course one says wear, but then what? I do not understand a f***! And my VTEC ratlles like hell I think the spring just gets weak a can't push as hard as need be.... Swapped mine today, and feeling new with old and that's what it seemed like to me.. And I think its just the top one that was causing noise... It seemed to be extended almost fully, and the lower rear doesn't seem to be out that much at all. So that might go along with the weak spring deal on the one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qwerc Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I allready orded 2 new CCTs. When I receive them I will change as soon as possible. I'm very curious.The new I would really like to make to see what the difference is with the old open. But that's not what I'll do! No way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 6, 2014 Got two on order also ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blainerides Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I have the answer to VFRQQQs question (and mine)... as to how much preload the spring gets out of the factory... The official Honda answer is "NONE"... this means that the 4 turns required to retract the pusher piston all the way in ONCE is how the CCT comes OEM, either on the bike or out of the box... Once placed in the motor and the key removes it extends all it can up against the guide... So you guessed rather well there... giving it one full turn more is not going too far... I gave it 2 full turns more... I don't think that's overdoing it either... it's a very flimsy spring, so I doubt 50% more will cause premature wear anywhere... It was Honda Montesa the Official Honda Distributor in Spain who answered my quiery. This time thanks are in order... but they should get their act together with the recalls... That post is most helpful, Auspanol - thanks for getting us an answer! :) Forgive the perhaps already answered / obvious / dumb question (my eyes are exhausted of reading pages and pages of threads on this topic...and searching and searching), but will someone please "dumb this down" for me, and/or re-state the PURPOSE for "fixing" the cam chain tensioner's "lack of tension"; i.e. tightening it up or replacing it? I've had a 4th and 5th gen before (gear-driven cams, so no problem), and one previous 6th gen (but only put 5,000 miles on it, and it was a young bike...) and my current 6th gen has 52k miles on it, but only the last 10k miles are mine - so this is my first time "dealing" with this CCT "issue". If / when it gets "too loose", especially (or primarily) the front CCT, will something CATASTROPHIC happen, or just make more and more and more noise? I saw Switchblade's cut-away engine image, and from a cursory glance and general understanding of engines, suspect there's a possibility that if/when the tensioner gets too loose, the chain could slap around enough in there to actually SNAP / break, but is this a REAL fear, or will an out-of-spec cam chain just make more noise? I mean, I'm not saying mechanical clunking sounds anywhere on a bike, let alone inside the engine, should be ignored, ever, but how bad can it really get? Switchblade's cut-away image: Sooo, why do so few people mention the MANUAL CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) option? Is this a bad idea? Is it a GENIUS idea, but has just only been an option as of late? What am I missing? I could just do the "adjustment fix" of the original CCT(s) in my bike now, in lieu of buying new OEM ones, but is this manual CCT a viable third option? http://www.ebay.com/itm/360837192431 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 13, 2014 About two hours had both of mine changed, not bad . The front CCT was definitely the one pecking . After removal when compared to the new CCT the spring was gone .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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