triharder

There's only one fan on the bike i believe on the left side (hence then no feeling on the right side). https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f632f870021c54be7e64/radiator

In my attempts to solve the CBR concerns (probably not really an issue if it doesn't go higher than 240, but seeing it up go up on a hot day with the fan on and it not settling down was concerning). I noticed that the radiator doesn't accept air pushed from the back and only really allows air to flow from front to back. I haven't blow down the radiator in the VFR. So i guess my next question is pushing air through the radiator on the VFR possible as opposed to pulling it?

Thanks for the responses guys. I thought about adding the override switch but forgot to do it before traveling for work (on the bike of course). it hasn't been an issue in Connecticut this year so far (i'm working shifts around traffic and in this area its not much of concern). Really only saw the problem in Cali that summer. But I like the idea of getting the air moving in traffic before the 220 set point if its going to be a bit of waiting. Any weekend i try to head home on 95 north in the summer. I was worried that maybe the dry air was causing issues as I'm used to the humidity on this coast. Granted we don't have anything around here that's close to Palomar MTN for elevation change and temperatures. Will have to wire that SPDT switch up when i tear the bike apart for the valve adjustment (i'm over do for) and for general cleaning as its been raining here for the last 3 days. I've only seen that light on the dash once on my CBR 929 after accidently disconnecting switch. never saw it on the VFR but typically the light is lit only when you're way over where you want to be. For whatever reason the CBR seems to run hot in traffic with the silicon hoses i added (only thing that changed before i saw that was higher than 220 degrees on that bike).

Roll over image to zoom in This type of coolant. Use it in all my stuff as its available at my local powersports store. I also have a on-going issue with a CBR that i trouble-shot and determined everything checks out (thermostat replaced with new but verified on stovetop (old and new) for set points, new cap, new hoses, new coolant . But it still climbs over 230 when in traffic. Last i rode in VA its was October (2012 yikes) so no issues with cooling and crossing into Cali from Vegas when it was 100+ outside still no issues. Just those days on the VFR at Palomar Mtn (in 2016) where it was creeping to 240 while i was moving got me worried. Can anybody confirm the bike will shut off at high temp or just give a warning light? Engine Ice TYDS008 High Performance Coolant - 0.5 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Ice-TYDS008-Performance-Coolant/dp/B000H01NFY/ref=asc_df_B000H01NFY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242030814433&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2705587785617422149&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003292&hvtargid=pla-437600037332&psc=1

07 VFR800 Quick question. I never see over 220~225 here on on east coast (fan cools the bike back down typically). Same coolant (I really need to replace soon) but i'd see 230+ continuous while traveling cross country (especially desert in Nevada or Cali). Palmar MTN especially caused the bike to be at almost at 240. Besides that day its been working correctly (fluid level verified and engine ice coolant currently installed, I did f As far as i can tell the system is operating correctly. Only say those temps a few times. (Set points on fan are correct here on the east coast, so i can pretty much rule out all of your isuses to check?) figured I'd ask the West coasters there thoughts.

I didn't fit the brembos. I did however swap the 07 CBR to the 07 VFR. And in doing so I lost the ability to rotate the levers exactly where i would prefer them. the sit slightly up instead of flat or down. (the assembly from the levers cause binding and stop me being able to rotate them). The reservoirs now obstruct the dash as well and make swapping from the motor temp to outside temp annoying while riding. I have the Brembo M/C's on my CBR. Both clutch and RCS brake levers. (hence the donors to the VFR). Honestly, I'd save my money. The clutch Brembo has no noticeable effect from the stock VFR components (or the CBRS for that matter). I wanted the CBR to have matching Brembo Stuff, but haven't really noticed a difference in feel. The VFRs brakes being linked and the assembly being what they are I don't know that the upgrade (price tag) of the brembo M/C will be noticed. I'm sure it would be technically an upgrade but for the $300 bucks I don't know it would be worth it. Just my 2 cents. Not sure that was helpful?

Unfortunately not much help on this end. the spacer between my fork cap and the threaded shaft was not spaced correctly on one side. I must have hit a burr in the thread as i tightened until i felt resistance too soon. That was my only fix and I didn't pay much attention to this detail at assembly as i thought i would be adjusting the sag numbers once sitting on the bike. I re conducted the measurement to set the sag settings per the pamphlet. this completely changed were my preload collar and shaft sat in the cap (I also corrected the threaded screw to sit flush at the fork cap). some confusion on my end had me screw it in till it stoped and back it out 1.5 turns. (that is not the procedure in the pamphlet which has you make the screw 1.5 turns out from flush with preload cap). Jamie came back and told me not to adjust anything unless i'm experiencing a condition that warrants an adjustment. I used Honda Fork oils (weight per jamie recommendation), new bushings and new seals as provided by Jamie. Also my fork oil level was as he recommended in pamphlet. Unfortunately I don't know what could be your issue? You did re-use the bottom out caps on reinstall right? I couldn't get sag numbers anywhere near the recommendations in manual or online. That's when Jamie said those are not numbers you need to achieve (I was thinking I could start at the street spec and tighten up the preload until i wasn't hitting the zip tie. Jamie said this isn't correct procedure for this fork. Unfortunately i haven't ridden in a few weeks and haven't really rode anything worth providing feedback on. (I had been working on trail braking on my commute and was managing to screw that technique up).

I recently found a great carb kit company outta texas in the US for all the carb parts for the V-4s. Great service, complete kit and good communication. I"ll try to find the name and get back to you. If you decide to rebuild the carbs (and i'd recommend it if you are keeping the bike). the top tier kit is pricey at $150 bucks or so but worth it in the end. Wish i could remember the name. https://billysoutback.com/carburetor-rebuilds.html?mode=list

DMR has been fantastic with after the sale support and help so please don't take this review in a negative light. I'm 1500 miles into my DMR outfitted Fork cartridge and BD40 shock bought last fall on my 07 installed by me. I honestly bought the kit as my tires have been feathering front and rear awful. (otherwise for my use the bike always felt okay to me). I'm around 200 lbs all geared up. A few hiccups on install of the rear shock that were quickly sorted with a return (make sure you request he installs a 45 degree fitting to clear interference with the PVC stay bracket with the oil reservoir line). From what i understand and the literature provided with the product, he recommends about a 4 years 20k interval on the rear shock rebuild with standard shock parts and a nitrogen charge yearly? Fork oil is easy enough so i'll probably change that sooner than 4 years. he states parts for the shock are standard sizes and I'm assuming oil piston head parts? N2 can be charged without removal of the shock from the bike (pending access to valve on reservoir cap). Install went well, i didn't follow instructions closely enough and had to fix some minor fork cartridge issues internal spacing issues. (completely on me, and now sorted). preload on springs and fully threading caps correctly. Only issue i haven't' really ridden the bike on anything but back and forth to work and a few weeks of me getting in my own way with Preload adjustments (Jamie doesn't recommend messing with the values unless your chasing a problem/symptom). I didn't have any just needed an excuse to use the mototool sag tool on the suspension. Anyway its back to what he recommends and feels good. (Again i haven't pushed the bike between home and work (dead straight 30 miles) If i had t do it again for my use i'd probably just send in my stock stuff and have it valved and refreshed. (Would be about 500 bucks total cheaper) and i have a CBR if i make it back to the track next summer. I don't think you'd have any problems having a local shop accomplish the maintenance on the Cartridge (not that it should need anything but fork oil changes) and the shock. Or send to Jamie for the refresh. Hopefully that helps? Also, the parts when i ordered last sept were made to order. I didn't actually receive them for a about 4 to 6 weeks (not sure if that's sorted now as I think i was one of the first for the shock). cartridge came in about 2 weeks. Just something to ask about if you are looking to order.

I have an ohlins on my recently sold track bike and my CBR. To rebuild a normal (non-ohlins shock) is roughly 90 bucks including parts and oil, To rebuild an Ohlins shock using there oil and materials was $175 bucks each time i have the track bike shock serviced, that was with a 25% special the shop runs in the winter up here North of Boston, MA in southern maine. I have seen some ohlins shocks with both the preload hydraulic collar and the oil reservoir. I'm surprised your's didnt have both. I wonder if that preload collar would be worth transferring from the Ohlins to the BD40? As the spring most likely will be the same size and all that thing is doing is pushing the spring down with hydraulics? (just a thought). I wish this bracket wasn't an issue as the install is pretty easy as long as you pull the top mount bolt and the dogbone, i pulled the rear tire so i could use my jack on the swingarm to lift and lower. I'm hoping to get some shipping information back from Jamie soon. My season is pretty much over unless i can get this thing on the road in the next week or two.

I'm working with DMR having the straight fitting swapped with 45 degree fitting. Marooncobra You might consider doing the same at construction of the shock. To really see the bracket i had to pull the battery and the rear seat mechanism lock barrel, I guess i'd start at the microfiche for the 2002 and see if its the same. (jamie said he did have old emails of similar problems, but the end user was able to modify the bracket). Why are you replacing the Ohlins? (besides the maintenance costs)

Called Jamie yesterday, he said he intended the shock to have reservior on the shifter side. I think this stay would be exactly in the way on the other side too and you won't have enough hose lenght to mount to subframe on that side. Although i didn't try it (i have a lot of electrical stuff ont hat side for heated grips, gps, powerlet etc). the 90 degree fitting would make this a 1 hour job instead of the day it will take the remove the entire rear end of the bike. **Make sure you have a jack and be ready to put the swingarm up and down a bunch, remove the top shock mount nut from under the tank, remove the dogbone (as it won't clear without it removed). I also marred up the spring coating as was frustrated and the swingarm keep landing on it. (might consider painters tape or going way slower when you install). these brackets changed year to year so the 2002 may not be an intereference or an issue. I will follow up when i have a solution.

Anybody deal with this on a vfr. The bd40 reservoir lives on the shifter side of bike. But the pcv stay item 9 is already located where the hose needs to go. anybody have an easy solution 07 vfr non abs I.m wondering if a 90 degree fitting woukd clear. I.d rather not remove subframe, rear fender and exhaust unless somebody has had this issue and has proven the hose clears with top mount tightened? Thanks

Thanks for checking in with me. My issue or probably more of a "I need to disassembly and clean" is my kill switch. Randomly the other day, with the clutch pulled in, (kickstand up) and bike in gear I tried to start the bike. However it won't turn over. I've started the bike a few times with the clutch in, (kickstand up) and bike in gear. So i questioned what was happening. (i'm 200 miles from home for work until tomorrow so disassembly/inspection/clean isn't happening until i get home). I discovered that kill switch on (throttle handlebar) wasn't making good contact so i pushed the button harder and it seemed to start priming my bike and thus starting. so i was just offering a (KISS) starting point for why the bike won't prime, if the kill switch isn't making contact the bike won't run/start or prime). I don't think i have an serious issue, i think my switch just needs to be cleaned with some di-electric grease to keep out moisture. (for now i'm only cycling the key off to turn off bike until i'm home). Hope this helps. And thanks again for checking on me. (per looking at this forum and chatting with Jamie Daughtry i'm going to upgrade the suspension when i get home (should have done it years ago). sorry to hijack the thread.

Random suggestions. My kill switch on the right handwheel is being fininicky. If that isn't making good contact the bike won't prime the fuel pump or start. ONly really matters on mine with the clutch pulled and the bike in gear. otherwise it seems to prime fine. so rule that out before you go too deep in something else.

I rode from maine to San Diego, CA and back with my wife on my 6G all but hitting the 4 corners of the US. Seperate trips with her about 2 years apart. Then did the trip on the VFR with a co-worker on his own bike a few years later. Both trips amazing. The backrest on the corbin was just for show, bike pitches passenger forward (i'm assuming the 8g does this as well as I've never seen a passenger seat that doesn't). The corbin or the sargent is a matter of user. Try them both if possible before buying. Same goes for windscreen. I'm same size as a friend and he loves my givi he borrowed on this 6g. I feel as if i get less wind when i stand up on the pegs rather than sit down. So two people relatively same height, total difference experience with the same windscreen. My recommendation would be the same for the case pad, if you'r pitched forward its just for show. We used a rug keeper, to keep my passenger from drifting forward during braking and seemed to make the experience 100x better for her on the back. Very cheap, completely removable and worked very, very well. yes, typically you can key the top case to side bags, not sure if you can with the ignition key. I bought a rack for my topcase and mounted the tent on it. then mounted the sleeping bags on the top of the side panners in water proof bags. I'm going to ask about that locally. (great idea) A few websites sell lights for the topcase. I'd recommend on of these as the idea of high up light makes sense to me. Easy install, my Givi one worked great for a while. we used the side bags for our clothes and the top case for the sleeping pads, spare regulator, rain gear etc. Couldn't have done the trip without it with the passenger. Also, ended up with heated gear (vests) and splitter off the battery. I'd strongly recommend this for a passenger or rider depending on how much and where touring takes you. I won't be without heated grips if i was planning on riding north or up to any mountain passes. We used chatterboxes rider to passenger (not to talk to each other much, Mostly used to listen to audio books or music). Worth the price. That was a few years back i'm sure there are many updates since. I installed heli-bars to reduce wrist strain. this might be why the givi doesn't work as well for me. I think the 8G has cruise? I bought a throttle lock, used it twice. I'd be careful with a cramp buster. I had a bad experience with one and now my bike has some scratches down the side. and the #1 recommendation I have and I believe my wife would agree is top quality comfortable riding gear. Make sure she's wearing dedicated riding pants, boots, a quality jacket and quality well fitting helmets. (rain gear is a must as well). Its amazing how much more riding you can do in a day when you're in the correct gear. Carry a tire puncture kit and if possible a compact compressor. Also recommend spare fuses, hopefully the 8G don't suffer the same as the 6G in the electrical department. I'd ask about spring rates in the shock and forks as well. Might be worth the money to have the springs set for your weights. Other than that have fun. https://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/calculating-eec

No, my warm idle is closer to 1400 rpm. as i watch my volt meter and anything under 1400 on tach (haven't checked per meter since valve sync in a few years) and it will drop to 13 if the idle isn't around 1400 (also the motor just doesn't sound correct). Its funny its touted as a anti stall assist. As when you actually attempt to drive forward the thing gets all confused under load and will dam near drop out the throttle, YOu'd be better off with it not increasing and therefore you had to advance the throttle to get where you needed to be. I don' remember it ever happening before sitting and makes the bike scream at 4500 rpm in the parking lot/work before i leave when people are walking by me. (embrassing). Then i let the clutch out and the thing falls on its face. (makes starting out interesting)

Interesting same problem. I thought maybe ECU related but wanted some others to let me know if they've seen this too. (my wax unit is fine, as the bi-metallic spring is not going to wear out within 46k and time doesn't wear out the effectiveness of spring, and I regularly flush my coolant lines) also it doesn't do it unless its in gear. Thanks guys, keep the suggestions going.

So my 2007 VFR is sitting at almost 46k and has treated me well since 6k when i bought it in 2011. When i start my bike when its cold after sitting (for a while or for 8 hours while i'm at work), regardless of 40 degree day or 80 degree day and you don't let it warm up to 125 degrees or so and shift in gear and touch throttle it revs to 4500 rpm until it hits 125 degrees. 1) Its fine if you don't shift it gear 2) no binding, sticking or reason the throttle would be doing this (the throttle body doesn't stick and throttle cleanly snapps back) 3) Won't do it unless you shift in gear and touch throttle (leaving work at 11pm at night) 4) won't do it if you justs let it warm up over 125 degrees. Anybody ever hear of this? If you try to go with it revving to 4500 once you release the clutch she dies out and damn near stalls out. Kinda interesting to ride around that issue.

You adjust the manual cam chain tensioner when you hear a rattle. or more likely,. Every oil change just because or every valve adjustment or somewhere in between. candyredrc46. with the work/time/ knowledge you have with your vfr I'm surprised you haven't gone this route. after researching the auto cct and seeing a trend with people replacing more than once I got manual. Purchase once and adjust as needed with no replacement required again. Just adjusting if required.

Not sure if you check this but my rwb 07 can be changed from farenhait to Celsius? you just hold the two buttons down with bike off key one.

I definitely have no intentions of totaling my barely broken in bike with only 43k on the odometer. so body shop or new fairing will be the cure. my pride will continue to heal up. lesson learned, the cramp buster gets removed when off the highway. i'm not saying that was my problem/cause but it didn't help. Thanks for the advice.

Well it was bound to happen. Just completed a month long ride/work/ride from Maine to San Diego and back. (12,000 miles+). Good times and great memories. However, in a target fixated rider mistake I drove the poor bike off a right hand corner onto the soft shoulder at the lassan volcano national park in california. (Easily one of coolest places I have ever ridden). So, does anybody have a lead on replacement stickers for an 2007 rwb? Also, would you file an insurance claim for replacement upper and right side cowl or Buy oem replacements Or See if body shop can fix my rashes stuff?

Just when you thought everybody was covered on this topic. From personal experience. Tapping the threaded holes for the front cam chain adjuster is miserable. So don't be like me and don't be lazy. Pull the airbox, pull the coolant line and take your time. I didn't and seriously wish I would have. (made this otherwise 2 hour project 5 hours and lots of stress). I'm only 4k miles from home on a work trip. (probably not the best time to be doing this type of work). using a co-workers rental condo landlords standard tool set. I installed APE Racing units. And the guys at APE racing are fantastic. However, he did recommend installing the manual cam adjusters at TDC. I'm not 100% why? But that's what I did. also important to note: a short wrench might be required or a crows foot to tighten the locknut on the forward cylinder. I had neither and this only made the job that much harder. Otherwise my "Sounds like a connecting rod coming through the side of a motor" cam chain noise at 37k is finally gone. Jeez that was a noise I didn't like hearing. also from APE Racing, "Don't make this adjustment out to be more than it is. Finger, yes finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn on the adjustment and lock in place). That's it you are done."

Welcome to the fun. The VFR can be a occasional dirt road bike (thinking driveways or heavily traveled dirt/gravel roads). (I've done it) but really she's mostly a street hungry machine. I'd say more like 95% street and 5% dirt roads but that all depends on your location and what you fit for tires. I'm not sure what's in the market for off road tires in those rim sizes. I've tried to dislike my VFR, I've owned a few bikes (CBR's mostly, a Triumph, some dual sport XL's and a CRF450X) with dirt bikes as a kid. The VFR doesn't excite me in the looks department (I do like the newest ones a bit more now) But I don't hate it either. Its not a lightweight race ready rig for track days. She'd work as a first track day machine but you'd be exhausted moving the bikes weight at speed (in stock condition) Every VFR before 2010 has quirks with the electrical charging system. You need to get the wire harness upgraded (around 75 bucks if you can turn a wrench). A forum member makes a great kit. If you've ever accomplished a Valve adjustment this is probably the most time consuming process going. (the Vtec makes everything in that department longer not harder). All that being said. I've traveled across the country on the VFR back and forth (that's Kittery, ME to San diego), (With the wife as passenger both directions) I've ridden at the blue ridge, at the dragon's tail,, spent some time at palomar mtn in cali, the Pacific coast highway, she's seen Mt St. Helen's, redwood trees, Yellowstone national park, mt rushmore, niagra falls and the top of mt Washington. Plus tons of highway in between. The only mechanical issue I've had was with the charging system. (sorting out this week hopefully at 30k miles). melted a fuse but she got me home from a week long Nova Scotia adventure. A few bikes on the forum have over 100k miles and they are still daily drivers. So after a long winded post I friggin love my 07 VFR. I can't think of another bike I'd want to have been riding on these adventures. In fact I'll be doing it again late May, ( a co-worker wanted to ride his FZ1 to San Diego and back this summer). Hopefully some of this helps you out?