triharder

There's only one fan on the bike i believe on the left side (hence then no feeling on the right side). https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f632f870021c54be7e64/radiator

In my attempts to solve the CBR concerns (probably not really an issue if it doesn't go higher than 240, but seeing it up go up on a hot day with the fan on and it not settling down was concerning). I noticed that the radiator doesn't accept air pushed from the back and only really allows air to flow from front to back. I haven't blow down the radiator in the VFR. So i guess my next question is pushing air through the radiator on the VFR possible as opposed to pulling it?

Thanks for the responses guys. I thought about adding the override switch but forgot to do it before traveling for work (on the bike of course). it hasn't been an issue in Connecticut this year so far (i'm working shifts around traffic and in this area its not much of concern). Really only saw the problem in Cali that summer. But I like the idea of getting the air moving in traffic before the 220 set point if its going to be a bit of waiting. Any weekend i try to head home on 95 north in the summer. I was worried that maybe the dry air was causing issues as I'm used to the humidity on this coast. Granted we don't have anything around here that's close to Palomar MTN for elevation change and temperatures. Will have to wire that SPDT switch up when i tear the bike apart for the valve adjustment (i'm over do for) and for general cleaning as its been raining here for the last 3 days. I've only seen that light on the dash once on my CBR 929 after accidently disconnecting switch. never saw it on the VFR but typically the light is lit only when you're way over where you want to be. For whatever reason the CBR seems to run hot in traffic with the silicon hoses i added (only thing that changed before i saw that was higher than 220 degrees on that bike).

Roll over image to zoom in This type of coolant. Use it in all my stuff as its available at my local powersports store. I also have a on-going issue with a CBR that i trouble-shot and determined everything checks out (thermostat replaced with new but verified on stovetop (old and new) for set points, new cap, new hoses, new coolant . But it still climbs over 230 when in traffic. Last i rode in VA its was October (2012 yikes) so no issues with cooling and crossing into Cali from Vegas when it was 100+ outside still no issues. Just those days on the VFR at Palomar Mtn (in 2016) where it was creeping to 240 while i was moving got me worried. Can anybody confirm the bike will shut off at high temp or just give a warning light? Engine Ice TYDS008 High Performance Coolant - 0.5 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Ice-TYDS008-Performance-Coolant/dp/B000H01NFY/ref=asc_df_B000H01NFY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242030814433&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2705587785617422149&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003292&hvtargid=pla-437600037332&psc=1

07 VFR800 Quick question. I never see over 220~225 here on on east coast (fan cools the bike back down typically). Same coolant (I really need to replace soon) but i'd see 230+ continuous while traveling cross country (especially desert in Nevada or Cali). Palmar MTN especially caused the bike to be at almost at 240. Besides that day its been working correctly (fluid level verified and engine ice coolant currently installed, I did f As far as i can tell the system is operating correctly. Only say those temps a few times. (Set points on fan are correct here on the east coast, so i can pretty much rule out all of your isuses to check?) figured I'd ask the West coasters there thoughts.

I didn't fit the brembos. I did however swap the 07 CBR to the 07 VFR. And in doing so I lost the ability to rotate the levers exactly where i would prefer them. the sit slightly up instead of flat or down. (the assembly from the levers cause binding and stop me being able to rotate them). The reservoirs now obstruct the dash as well and make swapping from the motor temp to outside temp annoying while riding. I have the Brembo M/C's on my CBR. Both clutch and RCS brake levers. (hence the donors to the VFR). Honestly, I'd save my money. The clutch Brembo has no noticeable effect from the stock VFR components (or the CBRS for that matter). I wanted the CBR to have matching Brembo Stuff, but haven't really noticed a difference in feel. The VFRs brakes being linked and the assembly being what they are I don't know that the upgrade (price tag) of the brembo M/C will be noticed. I'm sure it would be technically an upgrade but for the $300 bucks I don't know it would be worth it. Just my 2 cents. Not sure that was helpful?

You adjust the manual cam chain tensioner when you hear a rattle. or more likely,. Every oil change just because or every valve adjustment or somewhere in between. candyredrc46. with the work/time/ knowledge you have with your vfr I'm surprised you haven't gone this route. after researching the auto cct and seeing a trend with people replacing more than once I got manual. Purchase once and adjust as needed with no replacement required again. Just adjusting if required.

Just when you thought everybody was covered on this topic. From personal experience. Tapping the threaded holes for the front cam chain adjuster is miserable. So don't be like me and don't be lazy. Pull the airbox, pull the coolant line and take your time. I didn't and seriously wish I would have. (made this otherwise 2 hour project 5 hours and lots of stress). I'm only 4k miles from home on a work trip. (probably not the best time to be doing this type of work). using a co-workers rental condo landlords standard tool set. I installed APE Racing units. And the guys at APE racing are fantastic. However, he did recommend installing the manual cam adjusters at TDC. I'm not 100% why? But that's what I did. also important to note: a short wrench might be required or a crows foot to tighten the locknut on the forward cylinder. I had neither and this only made the job that much harder. Otherwise my "Sounds like a connecting rod coming through the side of a motor" cam chain noise at 37k is finally gone. Jeez that was a noise I didn't like hearing. also from APE Racing, "Don't make this adjustment out to be more than it is. Finger, yes finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn on the adjustment and lock in place). That's it you are done."

I'm sure you checked this but check your 30amp fuse as well. It killed my bike and looked burnt on my recent trip to N.S. it got me home by replacing the fuse (I was 4 days north). Anyway, good luck. Hopefully its just a fuse and you can still get the 2nd day in.