triharder

I have an ohlins on my recently sold track bike and my CBR. To rebuild a normal (non-ohlins shock) is roughly 90 bucks including parts and oil, To rebuild an Ohlins shock using there oil and materials was $175 bucks each time i have the track bike shock serviced, that was with a 25% special the shop runs in the winter up here North of Boston, MA in southern maine. I have seen some ohlins shocks with both the preload hydraulic collar and the oil reservoir. I'm surprised your's didnt have both. I wonder if that preload collar would be worth transferring from the Ohlins to the BD40? As the spring most likely will be the same size and all that thing is doing is pushing the spring down with hydraulics? (just a thought). I wish this bracket wasn't an issue as the install is pretty easy as long as you pull the top mount bolt and the dogbone, i pulled the rear tire so i could use my jack on the swingarm to lift and lower. I'm hoping to get some shipping information back from Jamie soon. My season is pretty much over unless i can get this thing on the road in the next week or two.

I'm working with DMR having the straight fitting swapped with 45 degree fitting. Marooncobra You might consider doing the same at construction of the shock. To really see the bracket i had to pull the battery and the rear seat mechanism lock barrel, I guess i'd start at the microfiche for the 2002 and see if its the same. (jamie said he did have old emails of similar problems, but the end user was able to modify the bracket). Why are you replacing the Ohlins? (besides the maintenance costs)

Called Jamie yesterday, he said he intended the shock to have reservior on the shifter side. I think this stay would be exactly in the way on the other side too and you won't have enough hose lenght to mount to subframe on that side. Although i didn't try it (i have a lot of electrical stuff ont hat side for heated grips, gps, powerlet etc). the 90 degree fitting would make this a 1 hour job instead of the day it will take the remove the entire rear end of the bike. **Make sure you have a jack and be ready to put the swingarm up and down a bunch, remove the top shock mount nut from under the tank, remove the dogbone (as it won't clear without it removed). I also marred up the spring coating as was frustrated and the swingarm keep landing on it. (might consider painters tape or going way slower when you install). these brackets changed year to year so the 2002 may not be an intereference or an issue. I will follow up when i have a solution.

Anybody deal with this on a vfr. The bd40 reservoir lives on the shifter side of bike. But the pcv stay item 9 is already located where the hose needs to go. anybody have an easy solution 07 vfr non abs I.m wondering if a 90 degree fitting woukd clear. I.d rather not remove subframe, rear fender and exhaust unless somebody has had this issue and has proven the hose clears with top mount tightened? Thanks

Thanks for checking in with me. My issue or probably more of a "I need to disassembly and clean" is my kill switch. Randomly the other day, with the clutch pulled in, (kickstand up) and bike in gear I tried to start the bike. However it won't turn over. I've started the bike a few times with the clutch in, (kickstand up) and bike in gear. So i questioned what was happening. (i'm 200 miles from home for work until tomorrow so disassembly/inspection/clean isn't happening until i get home). I discovered that kill switch on (throttle handlebar) wasn't making good contact so i pushed the button harder and it seemed to start priming my bike and thus starting. so i was just offering a (KISS) starting point for why the bike won't prime, if the kill switch isn't making contact the bike won't run/start or prime). I don't think i have an serious issue, i think my switch just needs to be cleaned with some di-electric grease to keep out moisture. (for now i'm only cycling the key off to turn off bike until i'm home). Hope this helps. And thanks again for checking on me. (per looking at this forum and chatting with Jamie Daughtry i'm going to upgrade the suspension when i get home (should have done it years ago). sorry to hijack the thread.

Random suggestions. My kill switch on the right handwheel is being fininicky. If that isn't making good contact the bike won't prime the fuel pump or start. ONly really matters on mine with the clutch pulled and the bike in gear. otherwise it seems to prime fine. so rule that out before you go too deep in something else.

I rode from maine to San Diego, CA and back with my wife on my 6G all but hitting the 4 corners of the US. Seperate trips with her about 2 years apart. Then did the trip on the VFR with a co-worker on his own bike a few years later. Both trips amazing. The backrest on the corbin was just for show, bike pitches passenger forward (i'm assuming the 8g does this as well as I've never seen a passenger seat that doesn't). The corbin or the sargent is a matter of user. Try them both if possible before buying. Same goes for windscreen. I'm same size as a friend and he loves my givi he borrowed on this 6g. I feel as if i get less wind when i stand up on the pegs rather than sit down. So two people relatively same height, total difference experience with the same windscreen. My recommendation would be the same for the case pad, if you'r pitched forward its just for show. We used a rug keeper, to keep my passenger from drifting forward during braking and seemed to make the experience 100x better for her on the back. Very cheap, completely removable and worked very, very well. yes, typically you can key the top case to side bags, not sure if you can with the ignition key. I bought a rack for my topcase and mounted the tent on it. then mounted the sleeping bags on the top of the side panners in water proof bags. I'm going to ask about that locally. (great idea) A few websites sell lights for the topcase. I'd recommend on of these as the idea of high up light makes sense to me. Easy install, my Givi one worked great for a while. we used the side bags for our clothes and the top case for the sleeping pads, spare regulator, rain gear etc. Couldn't have done the trip without it with the passenger. Also, ended up with heated gear (vests) and splitter off the battery. I'd strongly recommend this for a passenger or rider depending on how much and where touring takes you. I won't be without heated grips if i was planning on riding north or up to any mountain passes. We used chatterboxes rider to passenger (not to talk to each other much, Mostly used to listen to audio books or music). Worth the price. That was a few years back i'm sure there are many updates since. I installed heli-bars to reduce wrist strain. this might be why the givi doesn't work as well for me. I think the 8G has cruise? I bought a throttle lock, used it twice. I'd be careful with a cramp buster. I had a bad experience with one and now my bike has some scratches down the side. and the #1 recommendation I have and I believe my wife would agree is top quality comfortable riding gear. Make sure she's wearing dedicated riding pants, boots, a quality jacket and quality well fitting helmets. (rain gear is a must as well). Its amazing how much more riding you can do in a day when you're in the correct gear. Carry a tire puncture kit and if possible a compact compressor. Also recommend spare fuses, hopefully the 8G don't suffer the same as the 6G in the electrical department. I'd ask about spring rates in the shock and forks as well. Might be worth the money to have the springs set for your weights. Other than that have fun. https://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/calculating-eec

No, my warm idle is closer to 1400 rpm. as i watch my volt meter and anything under 1400 on tach (haven't checked per meter since valve sync in a few years) and it will drop to 13 if the idle isn't around 1400 (also the motor just doesn't sound correct). Its funny its touted as a anti stall assist. As when you actually attempt to drive forward the thing gets all confused under load and will dam near drop out the throttle, YOu'd be better off with it not increasing and therefore you had to advance the throttle to get where you needed to be. I don' remember it ever happening before sitting and makes the bike scream at 4500 rpm in the parking lot/work before i leave when people are walking by me. (embrassing). Then i let the clutch out and the thing falls on its face. (makes starting out interesting)

Interesting same problem. I thought maybe ECU related but wanted some others to let me know if they've seen this too. (my wax unit is fine, as the bi-metallic spring is not going to wear out within 46k and time doesn't wear out the effectiveness of spring, and I regularly flush my coolant lines) also it doesn't do it unless its in gear. Thanks guys, keep the suggestions going.

So my 2007 VFR is sitting at almost 46k and has treated me well since 6k when i bought it in 2011. When i start my bike when its cold after sitting (for a while or for 8 hours while i'm at work), regardless of 40 degree day or 80 degree day and you don't let it warm up to 125 degrees or so and shift in gear and touch throttle it revs to 4500 rpm until it hits 125 degrees. 1) Its fine if you don't shift it gear 2) no binding, sticking or reason the throttle would be doing this (the throttle body doesn't stick and throttle cleanly snapps back) 3) Won't do it unless you shift in gear and touch throttle (leaving work at 11pm at night) 4) won't do it if you justs let it warm up over 125 degrees. Anybody ever hear of this? If you try to go with it revving to 4500 once you release the clutch she dies out and damn near stalls out. Kinda interesting to ride around that issue.

You adjust the manual cam chain tensioner when you hear a rattle. or more likely,. Every oil change just because or every valve adjustment or somewhere in between. candyredrc46. with the work/time/ knowledge you have with your vfr I'm surprised you haven't gone this route. after researching the auto cct and seeing a trend with people replacing more than once I got manual. Purchase once and adjust as needed with no replacement required again. Just adjusting if required.

Just when you thought everybody was covered on this topic. From personal experience. Tapping the threaded holes for the front cam chain adjuster is miserable. So don't be like me and don't be lazy. Pull the airbox, pull the coolant line and take your time. I didn't and seriously wish I would have. (made this otherwise 2 hour project 5 hours and lots of stress). I'm only 4k miles from home on a work trip. (probably not the best time to be doing this type of work). using a co-workers rental condo landlords standard tool set. I installed APE Racing units. And the guys at APE racing are fantastic. However, he did recommend installing the manual cam adjusters at TDC. I'm not 100% why? But that's what I did. also important to note: a short wrench might be required or a crows foot to tighten the locknut on the forward cylinder. I had neither and this only made the job that much harder. Otherwise my "Sounds like a connecting rod coming through the side of a motor" cam chain noise at 37k is finally gone. Jeez that was a noise I didn't like hearing. also from APE Racing, "Don't make this adjustment out to be more than it is. Finger, yes finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn on the adjustment and lock in place). That's it you are done."

I'm sure you checked this but check your 30amp fuse as well. It killed my bike and looked burnt on my recent trip to N.S. it got me home by replacing the fuse (I was 4 days north). Anyway, good luck. Hopefully its just a fuse and you can still get the 2nd day in.