triharder

There's only one fan on the bike i believe on the left side (hence then no feeling on the right side). https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f632f870021c54be7e64/radiator

In my attempts to solve the CBR concerns (probably not really an issue if it doesn't go higher than 240, but seeing it up go up on a hot day with the fan on and it not settling down was concerning). I noticed that the radiator doesn't accept air pushed from the back and only really allows air to flow from front to back. I haven't blow down the radiator in the VFR. So i guess my next question is pushing air through the radiator on the VFR possible as opposed to pulling it?

Thanks for the responses guys. I thought about adding the override switch but forgot to do it before traveling for work (on the bike of course). it hasn't been an issue in Connecticut this year so far (i'm working shifts around traffic and in this area its not much of concern). Really only saw the problem in Cali that summer. But I like the idea of getting the air moving in traffic before the 220 set point if its going to be a bit of waiting. Any weekend i try to head home on 95 north in the summer. I was worried that maybe the dry air was causing issues as I'm used to the humidity on this coast. Granted we don't have anything around here that's close to Palomar MTN for elevation change and temperatures. Will have to wire that SPDT switch up when i tear the bike apart for the valve adjustment (i'm over do for) and for general cleaning as its been raining here for the last 3 days. I've only seen that light on the dash once on my CBR 929 after accidently disconnecting switch. never saw it on the VFR but typically the light is lit only when you're way over where you want to be. For whatever reason the CBR seems to run hot in traffic with the silicon hoses i added (only thing that changed before i saw that was higher than 220 degrees on that bike).

Roll over image to zoom in This type of coolant. Use it in all my stuff as its available at my local powersports store. I also have a on-going issue with a CBR that i trouble-shot and determined everything checks out (thermostat replaced with new but verified on stovetop (old and new) for set points, new cap, new hoses, new coolant . But it still climbs over 230 when in traffic. Last i rode in VA its was October (2012 yikes) so no issues with cooling and crossing into Cali from Vegas when it was 100+ outside still no issues. Just those days on the VFR at Palomar Mtn (in 2016) where it was creeping to 240 while i was moving got me worried. Can anybody confirm the bike will shut off at high temp or just give a warning light? Engine Ice TYDS008 High Performance Coolant - 0.5 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Ice-TYDS008-Performance-Coolant/dp/B000H01NFY/ref=asc_df_B000H01NFY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242030814433&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2705587785617422149&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003292&hvtargid=pla-437600037332&psc=1

07 VFR800 Quick question. I never see over 220~225 here on on east coast (fan cools the bike back down typically). Same coolant (I really need to replace soon) but i'd see 230+ continuous while traveling cross country (especially desert in Nevada or Cali). Palmar MTN especially caused the bike to be at almost at 240. Besides that day its been working correctly (fluid level verified and engine ice coolant currently installed, I did f As far as i can tell the system is operating correctly. Only say those temps a few times. (Set points on fan are correct here on the east coast, so i can pretty much rule out all of your isuses to check?) figured I'd ask the West coasters there thoughts.

I didn't fit the brembos. I did however swap the 07 CBR to the 07 VFR. And in doing so I lost the ability to rotate the levers exactly where i would prefer them. the sit slightly up instead of flat or down. (the assembly from the levers cause binding and stop me being able to rotate them). The reservoirs now obstruct the dash as well and make swapping from the motor temp to outside temp annoying while riding. I have the Brembo M/C's on my CBR. Both clutch and RCS brake levers. (hence the donors to the VFR). Honestly, I'd save my money. The clutch Brembo has no noticeable effect from the stock VFR components (or the CBRS for that matter). I wanted the CBR to have matching Brembo Stuff, but haven't really noticed a difference in feel. The VFRs brakes being linked and the assembly being what they are I don't know that the upgrade (price tag) of the brembo M/C will be noticed. I'm sure it would be technically an upgrade but for the $300 bucks I don't know it would be worth it. Just my 2 cents. Not sure that was helpful?

Unfortunately not much help on this end. the spacer between my fork cap and the threaded shaft was not spaced correctly on one side. I must have hit a burr in the thread as i tightened until i felt resistance too soon. That was my only fix and I didn't pay much attention to this detail at assembly as i thought i would be adjusting the sag numbers once sitting on the bike. I re conducted the measurement to set the sag settings per the pamphlet. this completely changed were my preload collar and shaft sat in the cap (I also corrected the threaded screw to sit flush at the fork cap). some confusion on my end had me screw it in till it stoped and back it out 1.5 turns. (that is not the procedure in the pamphlet which has you make the screw 1.5 turns out from flush with preload cap). Jamie came back and told me not to adjust anything unless i'm experiencing a condition that warrants an adjustment. I used Honda Fork oils (weight per jamie recommendation), new bushings and new seals as provided by Jamie. Also my fork oil level was as he recommended in pamphlet. Unfortunately I don't know what could be your issue? You did re-use the bottom out caps on reinstall right? I couldn't get sag numbers anywhere near the recommendations in manual or online. That's when Jamie said those are not numbers you need to achieve (I was thinking I could start at the street spec and tighten up the preload until i wasn't hitting the zip tie. Jamie said this isn't correct procedure for this fork. Unfortunately i haven't ridden in a few weeks and haven't really rode anything worth providing feedback on. (I had been working on trail braking on my commute and was managing to screw that technique up).

I recently found a great carb kit company outta texas in the US for all the carb parts for the V-4s. Great service, complete kit and good communication. I"ll try to find the name and get back to you. If you decide to rebuild the carbs (and i'd recommend it if you are keeping the bike). the top tier kit is pricey at $150 bucks or so but worth it in the end. Wish i could remember the name. https://billysoutback.com/carburetor-rebuilds.html?mode=list

DMR has been fantastic with after the sale support and help so please don't take this review in a negative light. I'm 1500 miles into my DMR outfitted Fork cartridge and BD40 shock bought last fall on my 07 installed by me. I honestly bought the kit as my tires have been feathering front and rear awful. (otherwise for my use the bike always felt okay to me). I'm around 200 lbs all geared up. A few hiccups on install of the rear shock that were quickly sorted with a return (make sure you request he installs a 45 degree fitting to clear interference with the PVC stay bracket with the oil reservoir line). From what i understand and the literature provided with the product, he recommends about a 4 years 20k interval on the rear shock rebuild with standard shock parts and a nitrogen charge yearly? Fork oil is easy enough so i'll probably change that sooner than 4 years. he states parts for the shock are standard sizes and I'm assuming oil piston head parts? N2 can be charged without removal of the shock from the bike (pending access to valve on reservoir cap). Install went well, i didn't follow instructions closely enough and had to fix some minor fork cartridge issues internal spacing issues. (completely on me, and now sorted). preload on springs and fully threading caps correctly. Only issue i haven't' really ridden the bike on anything but back and forth to work and a few weeks of me getting in my own way with Preload adjustments (Jamie doesn't recommend messing with the values unless your chasing a problem/symptom). I didn't have any just needed an excuse to use the mototool sag tool on the suspension. Anyway its back to what he recommends and feels good. (Again i haven't pushed the bike between home and work (dead straight 30 miles) If i had t do it again for my use i'd probably just send in my stock stuff and have it valved and refreshed. (Would be about 500 bucks total cheaper) and i have a CBR if i make it back to the track next summer. I don't think you'd have any problems having a local shop accomplish the maintenance on the Cartridge (not that it should need anything but fork oil changes) and the shock. Or send to Jamie for the refresh. Hopefully that helps? Also, the parts when i ordered last sept were made to order. I didn't actually receive them for a about 4 to 6 weeks (not sure if that's sorted now as I think i was one of the first for the shock). cartridge came in about 2 weeks. Just something to ask about if you are looking to order.

I have an ohlins on my recently sold track bike and my CBR. To rebuild a normal (non-ohlins shock) is roughly 90 bucks including parts and oil, To rebuild an Ohlins shock using there oil and materials was $175 bucks each time i have the track bike shock serviced, that was with a 25% special the shop runs in the winter up here North of Boston, MA in southern maine. I have seen some ohlins shocks with both the preload hydraulic collar and the oil reservoir. I'm surprised your's didnt have both. I wonder if that preload collar would be worth transferring from the Ohlins to the BD40? As the spring most likely will be the same size and all that thing is doing is pushing the spring down with hydraulics? (just a thought). I wish this bracket wasn't an issue as the install is pretty easy as long as you pull the top mount bolt and the dogbone, i pulled the rear tire so i could use my jack on the swingarm to lift and lower. I'm hoping to get some shipping information back from Jamie soon. My season is pretty much over unless i can get this thing on the road in the next week or two.

I'm working with DMR having the straight fitting swapped with 45 degree fitting. Marooncobra You might consider doing the same at construction of the shock. To really see the bracket i had to pull the battery and the rear seat mechanism lock barrel, I guess i'd start at the microfiche for the 2002 and see if its the same. (jamie said he did have old emails of similar problems, but the end user was able to modify the bracket). Why are you replacing the Ohlins? (besides the maintenance costs)

Called Jamie yesterday, he said he intended the shock to have reservior on the shifter side. I think this stay would be exactly in the way on the other side too and you won't have enough hose lenght to mount to subframe on that side. Although i didn't try it (i have a lot of electrical stuff ont hat side for heated grips, gps, powerlet etc). the 90 degree fitting would make this a 1 hour job instead of the day it will take the remove the entire rear end of the bike. **Make sure you have a jack and be ready to put the swingarm up and down a bunch, remove the top shock mount nut from under the tank, remove the dogbone (as it won't clear without it removed). I also marred up the spring coating as was frustrated and the swingarm keep landing on it. (might consider painters tape or going way slower when you install). these brackets changed year to year so the 2002 may not be an intereference or an issue. I will follow up when i have a solution.

Anybody deal with this on a vfr. The bd40 reservoir lives on the shifter side of bike. But the pcv stay item 9 is already located where the hose needs to go. anybody have an easy solution 07 vfr non abs I.m wondering if a 90 degree fitting woukd clear. I.d rather not remove subframe, rear fender and exhaust unless somebody has had this issue and has proven the hose clears with top mount tightened? Thanks

Thanks for checking in with me. My issue or probably more of a "I need to disassembly and clean" is my kill switch. Randomly the other day, with the clutch pulled in, (kickstand up) and bike in gear I tried to start the bike. However it won't turn over. I've started the bike a few times with the clutch in, (kickstand up) and bike in gear. So i questioned what was happening. (i'm 200 miles from home for work until tomorrow so disassembly/inspection/clean isn't happening until i get home). I discovered that kill switch on (throttle handlebar) wasn't making good contact so i pushed the button harder and it seemed to start priming my bike and thus starting. so i was just offering a (KISS) starting point for why the bike won't prime, if the kill switch isn't making contact the bike won't run/start or prime). I don't think i have an serious issue, i think my switch just needs to be cleaned with some di-electric grease to keep out moisture. (for now i'm only cycling the key off to turn off bike until i'm home). Hope this helps. And thanks again for checking on me. (per looking at this forum and chatting with Jamie Daughtry i'm going to upgrade the suspension when i get home (should have done it years ago). sorry to hijack the thread.

Random suggestions. My kill switch on the right handwheel is being fininicky. If that isn't making good contact the bike won't prime the fuel pump or start. ONly really matters on mine with the clutch pulled and the bike in gear. otherwise it seems to prime fine. so rule that out before you go too deep in something else.