Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RedShed

Post your Voltmeter mount pics

Recommended Posts

Sa1713,

Can you tell us how you removed the mirror and cleared the glass?

I removed the mirror from the fairing stay, and placed it under a halogen light until it was soft. I used a plastic putty knife that also was heated and slid that between the glass and plastic housing until the glass was worked out of the housing. I heated everything back up for install.

I used a dremel tool with a slight buffing wheel to remove the coating on the back of the mirror. i siliconed the volt meter to the back, wired it up and ran the wires down through the condoms. (I'm the only one who likes those...) I driled a small hole under the metal mounting plate, through the fairing and into the void behind the inner panel.

I wired mine drectly to the battery as it uses little to no juice while parked. My volt meter is within .05 volts of what a multimeter reads. It did warn me of trouble prior to the event.

I like it as it is almost a heads up display.

A big kudos to your creativity on your install. Very slick. :fing02:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks hawkeye.. So many options... So little time...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is my voltmeter

ea0dca72.jpg

and SDC LED voltmeter :tour:

Very slick install, and a smart little led.. Pretty cool... I may just have to look closer at that option! Thx

http://www.signaldyn...emart&Itemid=77

i have the same and love it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bought a Lascar, but have decided to go the SDC route. I'm more likely to notice it than I am to keep checking the voltage while I ride. Less to think about. Anybody want a Lascar EMV1200 for $20 + shipping?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here's mine:

MVC-010F.JPG

It's a digital temp and volt meter by "Motofizz". The temp probe mounted next to the RR to warn me of any burnout tendencies.....

Not waerproof though, but I don't ride in the rain. I suspect I could open it up too and make it waterproof with a bit of creative silicone sealant applications.

Beck

95 VFR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bought a Lascar, but have decided to go the SDC route. I'm more likely to notice it than I am to keep checking the voltage while I ride. Less to think about. Anybody want a Lascar EMV1200 for $20 + shipping?

Done. Kept honking the Stebel, testing the heated grips and 12volt outlet and now my new voltage monitor says it's time to charge the battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it stay red even when your RPM's are say 1,000 above idling?

Mine goes to red when idling at traffic light (both headlights are always on), but as soon as I'm reving up it goes to solid green.

If yours stays red with heated grips on and something draining from the socket even when revved up, it may not be your battery, you may not produce enough current/volt or whatever it is called (no techie myself)

good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Raining and haven't turned it on since my electrical work. Will try today.

Wife actually came down to inspect my work so I fired it up and all is green and good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Recently mounted a Kuryakyn voltmeter on my 5th Gen. Some mentioned this meter was pretty bright and could be distracting so I opted for something out of my direct view. That led me to a variation of Mello Dude's tank bolt mount using a cut, sanded and painted portion of the metal strip found in the expansion slot of an old PC. For wiring I tapped into the license plate circuit with an inline fuse - seems to work fine.

Thanks for all the tips and advice.

post-1462-0-26066600-1335195312.jpg

post-1462-0-23698300-1335195334.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I installed a signal dynamics volts light in mine, but this thread plus the air temp thread got me thinking. Wouldn't it be fairly simple to build a converter box (easy for someone like my son, who's an EE) so that the voltage is changed into the correct signal for the air temp gage? I can't imagine it'd be that hard, even if it had to be manually mapped on each .1v from 11.5 to 15v. You'd lose the decimal, but it seems the most stock looking and cleanest way to monitor your voltage.

Edit: I wasn't very clear on that. The stock air temp gage probably uses a variable resistor which changes resistance with the air temp. The gage cluster feeds it say 5v, it gets back 3.19v and it knows that at 72.5* that's what resistance it has, so it displays 72.5* (note that I totally made up the numbers) It seems like it wouldn't be too terribly hard to fill a box with magic smoke and wires that would instead see 14.4v and create whatever resistance was necessary to make the gage think it's 144* outside. 12v would make 120*, etc.

post-24741-0-12479800-1335918222.jpg

Low volts

post-24741-0-80177200-1335918251.jpg

Good volts

post-24741-0-26077300-1335918278.jpg

Voltmeter install

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's mine - a multi-colour LED like Dutchy's - mounted on a 750FR above the RHS cheek piece, and later on the 800FiY below it.

post-4110-0-63485300-1335914265.jpg

post-4110-0-86320300-1335914510.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Arrgh, I rolled the bike around in the garage today while bleeding the brakes, and when I turned the bars to the right, I crunched my waterPROOF digital LCD voltmeter, which was not attached, because the bodywork was off.

It was just hanging by the wire.

I think the triple clamp hit it, and cracked the face. Gauge still works, but the clear cover has a nice gouge and a long crack in it, so it ain't waterPROOF anymore.

AND, to make matters worse, the company who made it is long out of business. It was an I4C voltmeter.

www.i4cproducts.com is no more. Sigh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My RC51 mounted Lascar unit vibrated itself apart over two days at Road Atlanta... Just came apart. I guess cause it was solid mounted to the top triple, and not more isolated like some of the fairing mounts I've seen. For example, Earthshake's Fifth Gen which has since moved ownership to CornerCarver, then survived our trip to muddy NY Catskills ride and back. Not to mention multiple TMac trips with both owners.

Oh well...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is just like earth shake but further back, I kind of have to peer over the bar to see but it's no biggie. If I was to do it over I'd move it further up. My grip heaters are under the bar but it's closer to reach and by feel I know that the middle is off.

DSCN2759.jpg

DSCN2761.jpg

if you play your cards right and trim just a little at a time the datel will drop right in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To replace my cracked I4C LCD voltmeter, I bought one of these off Fleabay, and will sift through the ideas in this thread for ideas. Probably place it where Dferrell shows above.

Thinking of wiring it through a relay to the battery, and firing the relay off a switched 12v source.

$8.20 with free shipping.

  • Waterproof, 4.5-30 volts, blue display to match my blue gauges. Dimensions: 50 x 30 x 27mm

$(KGrHqYOKpEE6(HD9vvOBPjb6EN+Zw~~60_3.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ebay Wproof 2 wire. Not that easy to read, 1. In bright daylight and 2. Cause of where it is.

Lets me know whats going on in the V department when I care to look.post-20283-0-36188500-1336373661.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh. oops. :offtopic: If I could read I could have understood the difference between a 5th gen post and a 6th gen one. Slap me. Sorry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LED voltmeter, about 3 pounds off Ebay from China or similar. Marked it out on masking tape so it looked straight by eye, drilled the corners and cut it with a coping saw. Used a cheap file to straighten the edges and fit in the meter. Wired in with a fuse to the brake light switch just by the connectors next to the rear brake reservoir. Wiring it to the switch cable means it only comes on when the ignition is on, but does so before the bike is actually started. I also fitted a waterproof connector so I can remove the fairing still. Before fitting I took the meter out of the housing to put a bit of liquid gasket around the display for a bit of waterproofing.

I might, if I did it again, fit it on the left as I think there's more accessible wiring that side however I picked the right as i seem to take the fairing of less often. I'm happy with it as it is though, I've achieved what I wanted.

post-22377-0-62722300-1347478218.jpg

post-22377-0-92395400-1347478259.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did my voltmeter install. I mounted it in the same place that Dferrell did above, and wired it into the ign wire leaving the key switch. Hot only when the bike is on.

It reads about 0.3v lower than the battery voltage measured right at the terminals. BUT, it was an easy install. No routing of wires back to the battery nor figuring out how to fire a relay, etc.

Crappy iphone picture:

IMG 1763

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.