steve27bha

That is probably the V35 case rack - it has a curved back to use the space below the seat. The rack as well as being curved has a different spacing/size to the three box mounting points, but which look standard on first view. I don't remember the exact differences but I considered modifying my standard flat-back Monokey E21 cases with some form of false base to fit the curved rack and cases that came with the bike (a TDM900A), but found it was not possible. I got standard Monokey racks instead. Still got the curved racks and V35s - actually Kappa K35s, the cheapo versions. The standard Monokey side racks are the PL range, the curved ones for the V35s are PLX Pic shows the K35s on their rack, and a Monokey plate awaiting a top box.

The grease goes into the gap between piston and bore and helps prevent grunge getting to the seals. Also helps prevent corrosion of the pistons themselves. Those there are 30,000 miles 10 month p.a. use in Scotland and as clean as a whistle underneath the grease, after annual fettles. It's difficult to apply a thinner coating due to the consistency of the grease. VFR750 has it right - wipe excess.

Dutchy has shown bits from an earlier generation of bikes and brakes with parts I recognise from my 1984 CBX750FE. Mine haven't got that bad! A VFR800FiY front caliper looks like this when it is "all greased up and ready to go". That is red rubber grease, with one pin on the RHS greased and the socket for the other at top centre. When the caliper is installed and before pumping the pistons back out you should be able to move the caliper on its pins just by hand - no lever needed.

Skids, Many moons ago I replaced the hub bearings on a 4th gen 750FR and at the same time blocked the hole from the hollow swingarm into the hub holder (shown in pic #1) by gluing in a piece of plastic sheet. This would be a simpler fix if you have the hub removed from the swingarm. I made a blanking plate for the single rear hole between the arm hollow and the hub holder, using the plastic lid of a biscuit box. This has a rim to seal it to the box, and I modified this to form a step or joggle to use as an alignment aid. Pic 2 gives an idea of the shape and trimming required to fit - this is of the back or hidden inside face of the plate. The ruler is in centimetres, and it shows the lower joggled end. The plate is held in and sealed with No Nails glue/caulk, and sits in the recess between the two support surfaces that form the edges of the hub hole. Pic 3 shows the result, and the other side of the plate with its red box-top decoration. HTH

Have you tried to reduce the vibrations at source? I could do 400 mile days on Scottish country roads on my Y2K 800. 1. Balance the throttle bodies. 2. Check tyre / wheel balance front and rear. 3. Check chain & sprockets condition and chain tension. At the hands end how about thicker gloves? OK you will lose some sensitivity but numb hands don't have any! A left field suggestion - are you getting good blood flow to the hands? Check clothing at armpit/elbow/wrist is not restricting. PS You have an R missing from your avatar self-description.

I had Givi kit on my 800FiY and took record pix of it in various combinations on the WingRack (a Mk1). The set of five is in my gallery: - Here's a couple more giving three-quarter views of the E21s. Slightly larger and more rectilinear E22s are now available. If you do not know, Kappa stuff is the same as Givi, to the extent they share the same rack installation instructions, which can be found on the 'net. HTH

I've had one of them for about 25 years. The exhaust went ages ago and I got a nice Sebring 4into1 that was originally for the CBSevenFiftyF2. That bike used the CBX engine and a modification of the frame so the exhaust fits exactly bar having to make up a support strap. Mine was a Japanese spec model imported to UK and I have fitted a MPH speedo, bellypan, engine bars, Givi rack etc.. Japan and most of Europe and the UK and Australia got a twin headlight version. It has done over 65,000 miles and the cam cover has never been off because of the hydraulic valves. A version was produced in Brasil for many years after it was withdrawn from other markets. There is an international owners club at teamrc17.net It is based in Australia but has many members worldwide and some excellent support info. including a couple of articles by me. Tell them stevem sent you. PS There are drain bolts for the frame oil.

Just like I had with that hole. Go see my post of 22 Aug. which shows the damaged cover removed. You seem to have avoided the upper bolts being clouted and breaking out the holes. Roll the shift rod to check straightness. Well done so far.

I had a chain break on my Y2K FiY back in 2010 and recorded the damage, so here's a few pix of what you might find. Damaged front sprocket cover and associated bits. Replaced. Damaged gear selection cover etc.. Cover and rod replaced. Damaged bolt holes above sprocket. Depth checked and longest possible bolts fitted carefully. Gear change area underneath was fine. Also the spacer and bolt between the frame bottom corner and engine was mashed by the flying end. It fits in the gap indicated by the upper arrow. HTH

I can report on my UK experience with a 750FR used for commuting daily for 10 months of the year, 8,000+ miles p.a.. The collectors were shot-blasted and painted with VHT paint and cured as per the instructions in March 2005. I don't remember the make of paint. This pic shows the outlet in Sept 2006 with full rust coat. Here is the result of two years' use in March 2007. The outlet flange sheared off and I replaced the whole lot with a Motad - excellent kit. So, VHT paint is not a long-term fix.

Answer:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/391143722465?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=pla-131843269746&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&googleloc=1007330&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80 That's in the UK. I'm sure there will be a US version. There is a specific tool that is like a reverse pair of pliers - it fits inside the recess of a piston and expands to grip the inside. Twist the piston back and forth to remove it. Alternatively use a good pair of pliers (with wide smooth jaw tips, not narrow pump pliers) to grip the very edge of the piston - one jaw inside, one outside - and twist. Dress any damage before reinsertion.

Use this flowchart to check the full charging system:- http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf You don't quote your bike model (it kinda helps!) but this stuff is relevant to the 5th gen. 800Fi:- http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=76159 Why not use bikersoracle anyway, since you and it are UK based, and USA bikes differ subtly? See you here!

- like this:-

Here's a set of pix with my Y2K fitted with combinations of E21s and an E45, with a tank bag thrown in! They are all MonoKey fittings on a mk1 Wingrack, with the RHS spaced out to clear the high mount can. I have had no lock problems with the 21s and do not see how they are weaker than the E45, but then I have not damaged any of them. The lid of an E21 needs careful closing to prevent stuff inside interfering with the swing of the lock plate. HTH