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steve27bha last won the day on August 27 2012

steve27bha had the most liked content!

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About steve27bha

  • Rank
    The skinny sassenach

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  • Location
    Central Scotland, near Edinburgh
  • In My Garage:
    TDM900A in black,
    CBX750FE in reserve,
    Cagiva N90 125 in bits.
    (The VFR has gone)
  1. The grease goes into the gap between piston and bore and helps prevent grunge getting to the seals. Also helps prevent corrosion of the pistons themselves. Those there are 30,000 miles 10 month p.a. use in Scotland and as clean as a whistle underneath the grease, after annual fettles. It's difficult to apply a thinner coating due to the consistency of the grease. VFR750 has it right - wipe excess.
  2. Dutchy has shown bits from an earlier generation of bikes and brakes with parts I recognise from my 1984 CBX750FE. Mine haven't got that bad! A VFR800FiY front caliper looks like this when it is "all greased up and ready to go". That is red rubber grease, with one pin on the RHS greased and the socket for the other at top centre. When the caliper is installed and before pumping the pistons back out you should be able to move the caliper on its pins just by hand - no lever needed.
  3. Skids, Many moons ago I replaced the hub bearings on a 4th gen 750FR and at the same time blocked the hole from the hollow swingarm into the hub holder (shown in pic #1) by gluing in a piece of plastic sheet. This would be a simpler fix if you have the hub removed from the swingarm. I made a blanking plate for the single rear hole between the arm hollow and the hub holder, using the plastic lid of a biscuit box. This has a rim to seal it to the box, and I modified this to form a step or joggle to use as an alignment aid. Pic 2 gives an idea of the shape and trimming required to fit - this is of the back or hidden inside face of the plate. The ruler is in centimetres, and it shows the lower joggled end. The plate is held in and sealed with No Nails glue/caulk, and sits in the recess between the two support surfaces that form the edges of the hub hole. Pic 3 shows the result, and the other side of the plate with its red box-top decoration. HTH
  4. steve27bha

    vibration-proof grips

    Have you tried to reduce the vibrations at source? I could do 400 mile days on Scottish country roads on my Y2K 800. 1. Balance the throttle bodies. 2. Check tyre / wheel balance front and rear. 3. Check chain & sprockets condition and chain tension. At the hands end how about thicker gloves? OK you will lose some sensitivity but numb hands don't have any! A left field suggestion - are you getting good blood flow to the hands? Check clothing at armpit/elbow/wrist is not restricting. PS You have an R missing from your avatar self-description.
  5. steve27bha

    steve27bha general pix

    Pix of anything - mainly to add to messages.
  6. I had Givi kit on my 800FiY and took record pix of it in various combinations on the WingRack (a Mk1). The set of five is in my gallery: - Here's a couple more giving three-quarter views of the E21s. Slightly larger and more rectilinear E22s are now available. If you do not know, Kappa stuff is the same as Givi, to the extent they share the same rack installation instructions, which can be found on the 'net. HTH
  7. steve27bha

    Rc36 Caliper Overhaul

    Answer:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/391143722465?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=pla-131843269746&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&googleloc=1007330&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80 That's in the UK. I'm sure there will be a US version. There is a specific tool that is like a reverse pair of pliers - it fits inside the recess of a piston and expands to grip the inside. Twist the piston back and forth to remove it. Alternatively use a good pair of pliers (with wide smooth jaw tips, not narrow pump pliers) to grip the very edge of the piston - one jaw inside, one outside - and twist. Dress any damage before reinsertion.
  8. steve27bha

    Rc36 Caliper Overhaul

    I suggest your step 21 is wrong. Copper grease and most other greases make rubber expand and the sliding pins operate inside a rubber tube (the boots replaced in step 18). Expansion of the rubber will jam the sliding action and reduce the caliper's effectiveness. Use red rubber grease on the sliding pins instead. This was my 750FR. I never replaced the boots in five years and 40,000 miles of Scottish weather, commuting 10 months of the year.
  9. steve27bha

    Post your Voltmeter mount pics

    Here's mine - a multi-colour LED like Dutchy's - mounted on a 750FR above the RHS cheek piece, and later on the 800FiY below it.
  10. steve27bha


    - looking at the Forth Bridge. That's about ten miles from my house.
  11. steve27bha

    Push-to-talk switch install

    Picture - what picture? :fing02: I'd love to see what you have done. Pleeeeze.
  12. steve27bha

    IM000820 (Large).JPG

    I would not be putting much weight in the RHS pannier / bag - that is some stress bending the bolts that does not exist in the original setup for the side rack support. I swap my high level can for an OE when fitting the wingrack to avoid any such compromise.
  13. steve27bha

    Eilean Dunon Castle, September 2002

    Well, blow me, Rogue, you beat me to it - I was about to correct the spelling too! (BTW - your two "it's" don't need the apostrophe!) For those who want to see, its location (and spelling), up near Skye, is shown on this map : http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=18...0&ay=826400 (The arrow is not quite in the right place - look down a bit) steve

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