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Got a RC24 again......


keny

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It's off of a Honda CH150 Elite scooter.  I think I was trying to declutter a bit and reduce some bulk.   Didn't think I needed a huge reservoir tank for what the bike was originally being built for.  Hasn't been an issue on the street.  Think I overflowed once, but an old radiator cap was to blame.  No problems since. 

 

Started off as this:

 

ch150_tank.thumb.jpg.e1076eac57162400db78379b63f02139.jpg

 

I would always save them when we disassembled totalled or abandoned scooters at the Honda Shop.  Plus got a Fucke-Tonne of original Honda bolts and hardware.

 

 

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This morning did change the clutch line on the VFR, the "new" old off a 1987 bike again show how many changes there was from 86 to 87 even they look alike

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86 to right 87 to left. The 86 had it partially as a steel pipe, To me the 86 actually is a bit more bling to me.

Also the lower mount has moved from faring mount to engine mount

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By the way what is the length of the faring mount where the 86 had the clutch line mount? I know the 86 has a cool special long bolt whit treads for fairing bolt in the end where 87 has a small bracket, I want to make a special bolt for this, now has just a straight pin whit treads in both ends....

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4 hours ago, keny said:

By the way what is the length of the faring mount

Mine is 4.040" .  I would like to make a set for my bike, but done have access to a lathe anymore. My bike has a different looking stay on the right side that I would like to replace with a matching one. 

If you need more dimensions or pics let me know.

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On 9/23/2023 at 4:30 PM, tsmitty said:

image.jpeg

Thanks!, now I just need to convert all measurements to metric to understand anything 😅

 

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3 hours ago, keny said:

Thanks!, now I just need to convert all measurements to metric to understand anything 😅

 

100mm length of 12mm bar turned down to 8mm in the centre... personally I wouldn't overly worry about being exact,  just do what looks right.  

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3 hours ago, V4 Rosso said:

A set of round clocks is on it's way to you. 

You can't know how thankful I am for this 🙏😎

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Got some percels yesterday

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Whit some parts for the RC24.

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Got a little greedy and now I have 2sets of pulse generators, hopefully one set works, better both so I have a spare set.

Thanks very much for the 86 us clock's V4Rosso! And the fairing inners that was missing from the bike I bought, well these are of a 88-89 bike, so slightly different, upper mouth match but not lower but they will work 🙂

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Well the pulse generators are mounted

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Oil in engine after clutch cover mounted whit old gasket as sealant.

Sadly the rear carburators started  leaking again (like as I picked up the bike, did not leak next day) so have to wait to tomorrow (sadly moved to weekend) to see if bike run longer than getting warm.

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Needs new O-rings for float chambers for sure. Strange the clutch cover seems to hold tight where's the oil plug is leaking even has new cuppar washers 🤔

 

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Well the test run have to wait as it's pouring rain outside and I don't want to run the bike inside. But there is other stuff you can do, like start the repair of the tail section

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As typical for the RC24, it cracks above the tail light in front end, did use aluminum mosquito nets that I melt into the plastic whit a soldering iron

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Seems to work well 😊

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So much of the RC24 is well designed and then other parts....not so much! The tail light (and that whole rear section being one of them). 

 

I've lost the entire tail light before.  Clean snapped off and vanished. No idea where it went. 

image.thumb.png.61f7db5b210ffa119b8957425b92d6fd.png

 

Current one I've glued (using a PU adhesive) the tail light to the plastic to make it one "piece". 

 

Still need to fix the tabs at the front though. 

 

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Well the pulse generators testing will need to wait to spring, the carbs still flooding so no sense to have it running so. Needs new float chamber O-rings first.

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On 9/21/2023 at 7:24 AM, Captain 80s said:

There's always decisions and compromises to be made in doing something like this.

 

Looks like you've got 17" wheels, was that one of the changes with the RC26?

 

Sorry I'm coming late to this thread and am looking forward to seeing Keny's project completed.

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3 minutes ago, Lorne said:

 

Looks like you've got 17" wheels, was that one of the changes with the RC26?

 

With my RC26, yes.

 

1993 CBR600F2 front end (3.5x17) with Race Tech Cartridge Emulators and Springs, in 88/89 VFR750F triple clamps.  F2 rear wheel (4.5x17) with a Fox Twin Clicker.

 

Is getting F3 forks and wheel and F3 rear wheel (5.0x17).

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13 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

Is getting F3 forks and wheel and F3 rear wheel (5.0x17).

 

You probably already know this but while the 1991-94 CBR600F2[1] and 1995-98 CBR600F3 require the same width spacers the diameters are different between them so you can't actually use the same spacers unless you swap the oil (dust) seals. 

 

I mention this because people commonly say the CBR600F3 rear wheel is a straight swap for the CBR600F2 rear. It is...but only if you bring all the spacers along as well! 

 

[1] I normally refuse to refer to them as F2/F3 etc because that's an Americanism[2], not what they're called here and we do have a CBR600F2 (which is a MY 2002) and CBF600F3 (MY 2003) but you are in the US! 🤣

[2] Brought to you by Honda USA Marketing department, the same department that brought you the RC51...which isn't a 750cc. 

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5 hours ago, Fastdruid said:

 

You probably already know this

 

I just counted 7 wheel swap projects within eyesight in my shop using parts from this era. 

 

I've witnessed that even some of the best "tutorials" often overlook details and assume certain base knowledge, including my own.  It's almost like an inadvertent barrier to filter the skill level. 

 

If anybody just collects parts on comments and is surprised and disappointed when they go to assemble after new paint, bearings and seals, they probably shouldn't be doing this kind of work.

 

"But anybody can learn".  Then get your calipers out, get your hands dirty and do it.  Then ask more questions.

 

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7 hours ago, Fastdruid said:

Brought to you by Honda USA Marketing department, the same department that brought you the RC51...which isn't a 750cc. 

 

Yeah, that was just dumb, always bugged me.  Stupid Americans.

 

SC45.thumb.jpg.bcf45669351c93f65198c29ec2113fa8.jpg

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The bike did today get what it sure needed, would have a long time ago, a good wash!

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It sure had a lot of grown up muc at many places and the wheels did get a other kind of black 😅

Now it's nicer to tear apart 

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On 10/17/2023 at 9:17 PM, Captain 80s said:

 

Is getting F3 forks and wheel and F3 rear wheel (5.0x17).

So how will you make the Odo drive work whit the F3 front wheel?

Interested in that way as I have a cbr1000F (SC24) fork around as a CBR 900 RR front wheel that doesn't have the Odo drive even the early had. I just like the look whit smaller front wheel.....I know the 17" is more common as more easy to get tires for....

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9 hours ago, keny said:

So how will you make the Odo drive work whit the F3 front wheel?

 

I won't.  And don't care on this bike.  I don't even have speedo cable attached to the F2 wheel. I know when I'm speeding and I know exactly how fast I'm going when I'm not.  I have a fuel light and a reserve switch.

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23 hours ago, keny said:

So how will you make the Odo drive work whit the F3 front wheel?

Interested in that way as I have a cbr1000F (SC24) fork around as a CBR 900 RR front wheel that doesn't have the Odo drive even the early had. I just like the look whit smaller front wheel.....I know the 17" is more common as more easy to get tires for....

 

You can fit an RC36 sprocket cover and the speedo drive. I'm not too sure if the existing cable will fit or you'll need an RC36 one. 

You'll also need the clutch pushrod though (original is too short) and although I'm not entirely certain what the setup is on the early RC24 (all the part numbers are different to the later one) the RC36 has a longer output shaft so either an extra long head bolt or a longer adaptor and there TBH I'd 3D print one... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568948/files

 

Speedo will almost certainly be "out" though because the gearing will be wrong. 

 

Other alternative is do the same but fit a VFR800 electronic speedo drive and an electronic speedo. 

 

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On 10/23/2023 at 11:11 AM, Fastdruid said:

 

You can fit an RC36 sprocket cover and the speedo drive. I'm not too sure if the existing cable will fit or you'll need an RC36 one. 

You'll also need the clutch pushrod though (original is too short) and although I'm not entirely certain what the setup is on the early RC24 (all the part numbers are different to the later one) the RC36 has a longer output shaft so either an extra long head bolt or a longer adaptor and there TBH I'd 3D print one... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568948/files

 

Speedo will almost certainly be "out" though because the gearing will be wrong. 

 

Other alternative is do the same but fit a VFR800 electronic speedo drive and an electronic speedo. 

 

Thanks for this input. I did try this route on my 87 RC24 I had back in the days but one of the mounting bolts will not line up. I had the cover made slimmer to avoid the longer clutch push rod as keep the distance to sprocket the same. Eventually I sold the parts before testing as I sold the RC24 to buy a 5th gen.

The 4th gen also use a electric speedometer.

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