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Howdy everyone! New to VFRD. From New Jersey. Need help/advice


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Hi. I'm relatively new to this VFR forum. I came from the Ninja 600 world. But now love my VFR.  

I logged in last year, I think. But never posted, I think. Been a lurker for years, though.

My bike's a 98, 5th gen. Super low miles. 

Is anyone here from Northern New Jersey? 

Reason I ask is that I'm not that mechanically skilled when it comes to motorcycles. 

I can do basic maintenance only, like change oil, filter, clean the chain, grease it, etc... basic stuff only.

I'm looking for a motorcycle mechanic in Morris County, New Jersey, who I can bring my bike to for service. 

Need new tires, and the rectifier replaced. And whatever else needs to get upgraded. Still reading up ... 

Thank you. 

 

98 Honda VFR 5th Gen.JPG

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Welcome!

 

Recifier replacement is unplug and plug in....

Or is the wiring/connector melted?

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Thank you for the replies and compliments.

Regarding the rectifier replacement, it's practically "brand new" because the bike is practically brand new. 

I read somewhere, though, that it's good preventive maintenance to replace it and the wiring?  

 

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What's the mileage on the bike? Probably the best thing for now is to install a voltmeter up front so you can watch the trend of charging. You'll know then when it's time for the upgrades...And a quick inspection of the stator to R/R connector.

-I'd probably would leave if alone for now since everything is "newish."

 

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I have a new to me 2001 with 19k miles. I believe the stator and rectifier are original. If I instal the new rectifier will this be the correct preventive maintenance or should I put in a new stator as well? @mello dude 

https://www.partsgiant.com/p324939-ricks-motorsports-hot-shot-regulator-rectifier?m=540101&gclid=Cj0KCQiA47GNBhDrARIsAKfZ2rBjS06GQTKYOOmbiewlW7bzrP5GRYA6vz4nK5I-IjXNF7iGp3Cc1K4aAtOVEALw_wcB

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“Roadster”, may save those stators if series type is chosen instead of shunt style. If it works it’ll be worthwhile...

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23 hours ago, AndyP said:

I have a new to me 2001 with 19k miles. I believe the stator and rectifier are original. If I instal the new rectifier will this be the correct preventive maintenance or should I put in a new stator as well? @mello dude 

https://www.partsgiant.com/p324939-ricks-motorsports-hot-shot-regulator-rectifier?m=540101&gclid=Cj0KCQiA47GNBhDrARIsAKfZ2rBjS06GQTKYOOmbiewlW7bzrP5GRYA6vz4nK5I-IjXNF7iGp3Cc1K4aAtOVEALw_wcB

Thanks

This is probably overkill but...... 

- First of all, skip that R/R on parts giant!

-Next, do you have a multimeter? Buy one if not, they are available all near everywhere.

- Inspect the Stator to R/R connector!

- Test the voltage at idle, 2000rpm, 5000rpm.... What's the answers? 

- Stator tests..... 

  ------> Set multimeter on AC volts.... pull apart stator/RR connector... Check AC volts on stator side connector. A to B, B to C, C to A.... engine running 5000rpm. 

               >>>>>>>> Wahts the numbers on each? 

-------> Set multimeter on resistance ohms..... Stator side of the connector --- Engine off... A to B, B to C, C to A... what's the numbers? Should be 1 or less.

            >>>>>>Wahts the numbers on each?

--------> Multimeter on resistance ohm again.... Stator side of the connector.... Engine off... A to ground, B to ground, C to ground... All should be infinity... 

 

Some 5th gen history.... I am just reporting from my own experience and hanging out here for long time..... 

-- Generally the stators on 5th gens dont seem to be that much of a problem  - average life goes 40k to 50k miles. (6th gens seem to eat it early.) 

-- The OEM R/Rs do tend to have a high fallout, they tend to trend to fail over time. ... doesnt mean that some will not go 80k miles..... (mine died at 13k)

 

Fixit stuff..... 

If you are going to replace the R/R..... 

www.roadstercycle.com

I'm at for the 5th gen.... FH020aa is fine. (I'm running one.) -The other option is the 847 which is the latest series technology.  (Dont mean controversy but I have heard some weird idle volts issue with that one.) 

-------> Install it per the website direction..... Direct to battery and Ground...... (There are some fans here about the VFRness.... But.... If the R/R is installed per the roadstercycle site, the VFRness is moot.... When a R/R decides to die, its gonna die..... )

------ Also.... if you can solder, then do so on the Stator to R/R wire.... it eliminates the burn it up connector....... 

.........(Dont forget to cover with heat shrink tubing.)

 

IF needed stator replacement...... 

https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts#/Honda_Powersports/VFR800FIA_(01)_INTERCEPTOR%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_JH2RC460-1M300001/ALTERNATOR/47a430c2-9016-4bea-a3bd-e51bf78737d9/42aacb70-f0e1-42c0-ac88-22a5b9973eaf/y

 

or

https://www.customrewindstators.com/

These guys are really old school. You need to make a phone call or email, and they want payment by check.

Gary the owner has MS and can barely talk. His daughter helps with communication. 

I just did a stator with them... no real miles on it yet..... They charged me $140

 

- On the rewind stator, I asked for extra long leads so I could use the R/R connector direct. Its a Furukawa.... 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/furukawa-qlw-250.html

The advantage is there is no intermediate connector..... 

 

-- No matter what, a voltmeter on the front of the bike is essential to watch the health of the system trends..... 

i-cDVSbbS-S.jpg

 

Lastly --- if the system is performing per requirements with the OEM gear, I'm not a proponent of changing parts that are good..... 

 

Good luck 

 

Beers to all! :beer:

 

 

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A few years back there was a thread on here about how owners had installed a voltmeter.  There had to be 20 to 25 ways people had done it - amazing creativity.  If you can find that thread you'll find one that you like.  Some used a manual switch to complete the circuit to the meter from the battery (so no constant parasitic draw), others used a switched circuit such as the taillight to activate a relay for that purpose.  Rather than tapping wires for switched power, I've begun using fuse taps at the fuse blocks.  Those are slick - plug in and a fuse for the main circuit the fuse was intended for and a 2nd fuse for the tapped circuit.  Any way you do it, Mello's advice will save you from wondering what is happening with your electrical system. 

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I'm installing the 847 soon but would like to plug instead of hardwire. Does anyone have access to the R/R end plug and connectors so I can plug it right into the stator plug? Thanks!

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33 minutes ago, bmart said:

I'm installing the 847 soon but would like to plug instead of hardwire. Does anyone have access to the R/R end plug and connectors so I can plug it right into the stator plug? Thanks!


DO NOT use plugs; hardwire it and get rid of a known problem. I don’t understand installing the best R/R money can buy, then, wanting to shortcut the install. Buy the Roadstercycle harness, if you need to. 
 

In response to the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit, there are a lot of advantages to installing it and keeping your bike ahead of a R/R failure. It’s not matter of IF, but, WHEN. Leaving dated technology installed, which can lead to the bike burning to the ground, is a fool’s game. 

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34 minutes ago, mello dude said:

Well if you wait till the bike burns up, you ignored my 3rd post.... 

 

I was trying to remember what the VFR event was where 3 had R/R failures just trying to get to the event. And, none of those had upgraded their R/R. 

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19 hours ago, bmart said:

I'm installing the 847 soon but would like to plug instead of hardwire. Does anyone have access to the R/R end plug and connectors so I can plug it right into the stator plug? Thanks!

Don't do that!!! You'll be carrying over and continuing Honda's low-spec mistakes; bare uncoated brass connectors that'll corrode over time. This increases resistance of connector interface and causes overheating & burning over time:

 

uc?export=download&id=1ra5iRLo5ChNUu0zBK
 

Even replacing stator connector with new doesn't work for long because shunt-circuit RR runs stator at 100% full-time. New connectors won't last long and burn up as well.

 

uc?export=download&id=1TfhiZ7Cs0DmFDF20G
 

Best to tie stator wires straight across using proper linesman/Western-union knot. Then solder and seal with adhesive heatshrink wrap for corrosion resistance. I use this manual for all my wiring. Pro-motorsports, aerospace and military applications use it for performance, durability and reliability.

 

uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_z
 

Better to spend couple hours doing best job possible now, rather than trying to jerry-rig something using rocks and twigs scavenged from side of road when you're stranded. You will not be first that had to do this!

 

Other sources for wiring connectors:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html

 

Also DO NOT use generic dimple/crescent crimpers on RR terminals. Only use matching W-dies for those terminals.

 

Remember: There never seems to be enough time to do things right first time around, but there's always time to do it again!!! Often times on side of road in total darkness and rain!!!

 

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Listen to these guys.... Roadster R/R of your choice, SH775 is also good.  Roadster harness the best way to go, bypasses OEM wiring, has circuit protection... you can't buy that quality of wire and connectors and pay yourself an hourly minimum wage to do it.  Solder the connections to the stator wires, don't use the crimp type, at least I won't.  Yes to the voltmeter, I have one on every bike I own.

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4 hours ago, mello dude said:

This is probably overkill but...... 

- First of all, skip that R/R on parts giant!

-Next, do you have a multimeter? Buy one if not, they are available all near everywhere.

- Inspect the Stator to R/R connector!

- Test the voltage at idle, 2000rpm, 5000rpm.... What's the answers? 

- Stator tests..... 

  ------> Set multimeter on AC volts.... pull apart stator/RR connector... Check AC volts on stator side connector. A to B, B to C, C to A.... engine running 5000rpm. 

               >>>>>>>> Wahts the numbers on each? 

-------> Set multimeter on resistance ohms..... Stator side of the connector --- Engine off... A to B, B to C, C to A... what's the numbers? Should be 1 or less.

            >>>>>>Wahts the numbers on each?

--------> Multimeter on resistance ohm again.... Stator side of the connector.... Engine off... A to ground, B to ground, C to ground... All should be infinity... 

 

Some 5th gen history.... I am just reporting from my own experience and hanging out here for long time..... 

-- Generally the stators on 5th gens dont seem to be that much of a problem  - average life goes 40k to 50k miles. (6th gens seem to eat it early.) 

-- The OEM R/Rs do tend to have a high fallout, they tend to trend to fail over time. ... doesnt mean that some will not go 80k miles..... (mine died at 13k)

 

Fixit stuff..... 

If you are going to replace the R/R..... 

www.roadstercycle.com

I'm at for the 5th gen.... FH020aa is fine. The other option is the 847 which is the latest series technology.  (Dont mean controversy but I have heard some weird idle volts issue with that one.) 

-------> Install it per the website direction..... Direct to battery and Ground...... (There are some fans here about the VFRness.... But.... If the R/R is installed per the roadstercycle site, the VFRness is mute..... When a R/R decides to die, its gonna die..... )

------ Also.... if you can solder, then do so on the Stator to R/R wire.... it eliminates the burn it up connector....... 

 

IF needed stator replacement...... 

https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts#/Honda_Powersports/VFR800FIA_(01)_INTERCEPTOR%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_JH2RC460-1M300001/ALTERNATOR/47a430c2-9016-4bea-a3bd-e51bf78737d9/42aacb70-f0e1-42c0-ac88-22a5b9973eaf/y

 

or

https://www.customrewindstators.com/

These guys are really old school. You need to make a phone call or email, and they want payment by check.

Gary the owner had MS and can barely talk. His daughter helps with communication. 

I just did a stator with them... no real miles on it yet..... They charged me $140

 

- On the rewind stator, I asked for extra long leads for I could use the R/R connector direct. Its a Furakawa.... 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/furukawa-qlw-250.html

 

The advantage is there is no intermediate connector..... 

 

-- No matter what, a voltmeter on the front of the bike is essential to watch the health of the system trends..... 

i-cDVSbbS-S.jpg

 

Lastly --- if the system is performing per requirements with the OEM gear, I'm not a proponent of changing parts that are good..... 

 

Good luck 

 

Beers to all! :beer:

 

 

This is great info. Thanks!! 

 

 

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2 hours ago, ducnut said:

 

I was trying to remember what the VFR event was where 3 had R/R failures just trying to get to the event. And, none of those had upgraded their R/R. 

I'm not saying dont do it, but the failure isnt an instant switch from good to bad, its a trend over time. Just saying if its good at the moment you have time to plan the upgrades.... 

If you go on a trip without knowing status, and it dies you didnt look at post 3.  - I wouldnt go on a trip with OEM gear anyhoo.. 

Cmon chill, lets grab a beer.....

 

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There is NO need to go to hard wiring if you update the reg-rectifier. the problem is the stock RR failing cooks the wiring.
My stock one died 10 years ago after 11 years of use. 
 

The original connectors to the alternator were fine. So I replaced it with a Mosfet based RR & every winter since I have checked the connectors & they are still in the same condition. 
 

If you are worried about the connectors then just replace them with some high amp ones for lipo battery packs. 


Just my 2cents

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That! Thank you. 

 

No issue with adding a plug with the 847 and kit. My question is where do I get the plastic and ends for the wires? 

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The SH847 only draws sufficient current from stator to satisfy needed usage, rather than always 100%, so factory connectors should be OK. Provided you crimp, solder, seal new mating connector so as to not create weaker connection point. Check factory stator connectors 1st to make sure they're not fried or on their way to being fried.

 

Can find matching stator connector and terminals here.

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html

 

Along with connectors for RR

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html

 

I recommend using pre-tinned silicone-insulated wires for longevity and durability.

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Colour shouldn't matter; similar connector is also made by AMP/TE. I think you want Yazaki? Important criteria is single horizontal terminal should be closest to lock.

StatorConnector1998.png.2dc74d2aac33af245a92f02847000437.png

Measure dimensions of connector from stator. Is it about 13mm wide at base and 16,5mm tall?

 

If I was to do this and wanted plugs on stator wires, I'd replace both sides with matching sealed connectors like MetriPack.

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