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51, started riding about 3.5 years ago on a Magna V45 700 I purchased on Facebook Marketplace. Traded up from there to an ST1300 that I LOVED, but the heat bothered me, and my wife didn't want to ride on it with me anymore. I got a Goldwing, but I missed the power, torque, seating position, and sound of the V4. Lo and behold, a Cherry (color and condition) 7th gen came up for sale near me, so I just had to go get it. I'm so glad to be back on a V4, and the VFR1200F is a riot! Looking forward to many miles to come.

Welcome to the club 🙂

I turned 13k miles on the yellow '00 as I pulled into the garage and serviced the K&N air filter!

There was not an 86 version of the RC15. Nothing of any consequence interchanges between an 83-85 RC15 and the 86 RC24. Nor were there any real changes to the engine 83-85. Metallurgy on the cams may have improved in 1985. You may be thinking of the 84/85 to 86 VF500F PC12. There were substantial changes on that model in 1986 engine wise.

As Terry noted they did have some cam wear issues. This was in the 84-85 model run. In 86 Honda made some changes to the valve gear and carbs plus some other bits IIRC. This was a far better version, but a number of engine parts do not interchange between the two models. Check you vin numbers, if one of them is an 86 model, and it has decent compression, that is the engine to build on. Best of luck, fun bikes for sure.

Yes! Everytime I get on my bike I feel 30 years lighter. 😁

Correct, its for my 2001 VFR. And Thank You.

Hmm, I just used the part finder on their website. Are you looking for a battery for a VFR or another bike? If it's for a VFR I can get pictures and do measurements if needed.

I've used stompgrip on my bikes for years. Very slight yellowing over many years but hardly noticeable. Makes a huge difference on the road; allows you to properly lock on and use your core muscles rather than writhing around on a buttered pig. Go for volcano. The icon are useless other than a paint protector. I've not had problems with wear on leather. Shorts, no idea I always dress to protect

You don't need the secondary master replacement bracket. Just use the clevice that is already there with a bolt retained in the secondary master cylinder by the steel plate & circlip that is also already there. The clevice is static the bracket moves on it. If you gut the secondary master cylinder then you can fit a bolt of the correct dimensions into it such that the bracket does not move when the brake is applied. Simples 🙂

I had the Stompgrip clear version on my RC-51 for about five years until I sold it last year, and I'd recommend them. Helpful on the street during brisk riding but a huge difference maker for track days. The abrasion on my leathers wasn't bad actually, I think it is more a result of accidental contact, not when your knees are locked onto the tank during braking. Sadly sfdownhill is no longer with us, he would have had a much more detailed and witty answer than mine!

Since I designed the bracket, I have 'the specs'. However, at this point in time, I would be reluctant to share 'the specs'. I believe in my design (since riding with it), but for a 'commercial' product (thus sharing it with others), I would at least want certification by TÜV SÜD (or similar). I feel confident to 'risk' my own life, but not that of others at the current level of testing / lack of certification.

old thread i know but how have they held up? discolored? mess your pants up? im seriously torn between the volcano and icon versions and clear vs black. was the volcano too aggressive for street use? i do spirited commutes only. super uncomfortable in shorts?

FIRST TEST First test for the bike and... for the biker either, as I haven't been wearing a leather suit for a decade 😁 Well, the bike is lovely; the lighter flywheel makes the engine more lively and prone to rev up and down quicker, as expected. The only (slightly) noticeable downside is a bit of nervousness at the corner apex at the moment you get the throttle on hand, but it's a matter of recalibrate my moves being a bit smoother. Moreover, the inlet trumpets changed the behavior of the bike significantly. With the "all long" configuration (OEM long trumpets both on rear and front cylinders), the engine is FANTASTIC at low and mid range (until 6000 rpm, I'd say) but became lazy in revving up over 7000. With my new trumpets I lost a bit of "fullness" until 4500rpm (just a bit), but over this threshold it seems to have a different engine, lively and FEROCIOUS in revving up 💪 Very happy of the result; I could make a new version with a little variation in the geometry to increase low-mid speed torque, but it's a matter of details. The mods on the cooling system lowered the op. temperature by 2°, approx. Suspensions are yet to be set up; I'll take a bit of time in the next rides to finalize the setting. The lighter wheels (especially at back) "seem" to make the bike a bit easier in pif-paf or in leaning down phase, but the difference is subtle (I didn't install magnesium of carbon rims, so the weight gain isn't big) In conclusion, I'm more than happy about the bike. The biker, instead, is an old fat rider still convinced of being a pilot, while the ugly truth is that he's just an old guy riding peacefully 👴 😅

do you still have the specs for the bracket? Love what you did!

What is 'facebook'?

This is why i prefer forums to facebook... Thanks!

May you please send hyperlink or part number for the parts you found on Partzilla?

I'm the lurker 🤣🤣 Currently 3D scanning all the fuel pump parts, separately and having a difficult time removing the 2-pin electrical connector from the pump. It has a green safety/lock snap that I'm struggling to remove without breaking it.

I assume we are talking about ignoring the middle pistons and just driving the outer pairs at both ends. The rear master is a big, 17.46mm diameter, and normally operates two rear pistons plus two front pistons. If you delink, then it will only drive the two rear pistons and it is likely to feel very wooden, not much travel or power. If you link that master to all three rear pistons the ratio will be better but may still feel a bit wooden, so moving to a 14mm rear master driving those 3 pistons would be best. You can join the two stock rear hoses at the master using the double banjo bolt that comes out of the linked system, and it will work just like Honda planned to do it that way originally. At the front, you could keep the original 12.7mm master driving just the outer 4 pistons, and that is a completely stock hydraulic ratio. The 6th gen actually drives all 3 right pistons from the front master plus the two outer left pistons, and that uses a 14mm master, and is a better brake setup IMHO. If you wanted to operate all 6 front pistons then a larger master cylinder than 14mm would be wise.

Thanks, that's good to know. Now that you mention it there's no sensor in the exhaust so of course that couldn't be the reason! I'm hoping for no leak around intake rubbers, that would not be ideal....but I guess we'll find out! My guess would be a vacuum leak higher up as I was really careful putting the throttle body on, making sure it was fully home. However getting the airbox on was so tricky I could easily have knocked something loose. Anyway, I'll run it for a few days and see what it's like after 100 miles. Then I'll have a better picture of where it's at.

Sounds like a great deal, and thanks for the heads up! I'm a bit confused though as the specs say the battery is 5.9"/150mm long. The ytx12 in my 5th Gen is 5 1/8"/130mm long. 150mm will not fit the battery box Am I missing something? BTW, all their sizes are 5 9"/150mm long.