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Here's a 2001 with 17k miles listed locally for $6k. It's high but the seller is probably not in a rush and can lower the price as needed. https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/75107544 I say list yours at 5-6 and see what happens. You can always lower it. That said, I offer the following for reference: I bought a 2001 in 2021 with 20k miles for $3,000. Pretty clean overall just needed some refreshing. I considered this one a pretty good deal. I bought another 2001 6 months ago with 39k miles for $2500. Not as clean, needed more refreshing. This one was more of an ok/fair deal for what it was. Last year there was a 2001 on cycletrader with only 1200 miles listed at $6500. Very sensible price given the miles. It was super clean too. It would be rare to find another one with miles that low or lower. Things that help get top dollar: -bike should be detailed, waxed and exceptionally clean. If we're claiming near showroom it should look like it. -new(er) tires, recent fluids, etc, especially brake fluid for anyone that knows the annoyance of properly bleeding linked brakes. -any and all documented service history available, receipts if you have any in a folder. Both keys if you have them. -all mods documented in the ad, stock parts included if you have them still. -should include OEM grab handles, rear upper cowl (that covers the seat), OEM windscreen, owner's manual and tool kit -any issues or defects documented/photographed. Pointing out a few small scratches is a good thing if that's literally all there is to point out. It emphasizes that the rest of the bike is in great shape and no surprises for potential buyers. -Several GOOD pictures in sunlight (It's amazing how many sellers don't take the time to clean up a vehicle or take good pics.) -a short but well written for sale ad, bullet points not paragraphs -priced reasonably given current market. These bikes live between $2k and about $6k with most falling in the $3500-$4500 range. Several factors determine what it will ultimately sell for. There's a price that will have it sold in minutes, another that will have it sold in a day, and another that will take weeks, and another where it won't sell at all. Decide what you would be happy with, add a little wiggle room and see how it goes. I have sold many vehicles to the first person who came to look at them by having them clean, sorted, well presented and fairly priced. Most of my vehicles have sold quickly. Some too quickly. Some took longer, some I had to lower the price a little more until the right buyer appeared. Just gotta get the right combination of factors to get it done. This is one that I recently spent some time refreshing and cleaning up over the winter. It's not worth $6k, but would probably sell quickly at a reasonable ask. Not for sale though. 😉 Cheers, Justin (click for better resolution)

All done. PM replied.

For anyone that follows HighsideNZ's excellent CAD diagrams based on my original design, please note that after 25K miles the bobbins M10 bolts pulled out of the alloy inner. If you used HighsideNZ's bobbin retainer then they won't come out all the way, but mine came out far enough to lose drive. I have now reengineered the alloy centre hub section with steel inserts press fitted into the alloy. This should now last without further issues. Outside view Inside view There is 2mm clearance between the alloy inner side & the hub carrier. I turned some flanged nuts down so the flange was 1.5mm thick + 6mm of nut to press fit into the alloy.

Somehow I missed Lance's request for info here. Full details available here. R.I.P Lance

-Put it all back together I am going to take it apart again and re check everything. -I did check all the hoses and they seemed fine no cracks etc. put some silicone grease on them to soften them up a bit. -gt85 the linkages and pushed in and out to help lubrication they didn’t seem stiff or seized. -Funnily when I put it back together there didn’t seem to be any flashing of the FI it just went on and off as normal when I turned the engine on. do I need to reset it could the fact that it needs resetting be an issue? -when I got the bike (1 month ago) it had fresh oil on spark plugs so I replaced the seals around the spark plug and it stopped leaking. Cleaned up the plugs with some heat and put them back in. Apart from the oil they didn’t seem bad. -When I first got the bike it struggled to start first time. After emptying the tank of previous fuel I put in v power fuel and some redex to clean and it now starts first time just rough to start with throttle hesitation. -I thought it was fuelling issue but will come back once I have done further investigation. thanks for your support I didn’t realise forums were so helpful. Hopefully I get this sorted had nothing but problems with it since I got it. To be honest it has put me off Honda. I’ve had all major Japanese bikes and this is the only one where the issues keep coming. I am only persisting because of the lovely v4 engine sound. kind regards. Shane

Some progress on the RC24. Started to take fork off, decided to take top fairing as well off to put the round clocks on even will run OEM fairing this season. The fairing has some damage but don't know if I will do anything to it, it will be replaced whit the cbr900 anyway in a near future (next winter), seems there is a lot of small damage here as there also. Other headlight faster is broken As the oil cooler other attachment cracked as headlight fasteners bent The headlight holders can easily be bent back nut the oil cooler faster needs a weld. Did strip the front brake I have the rebuild kit for the calipers. Also thinking I might take the long brake lines from the FJ for the VFR to keep it more simply whit just 2 brake lines. Fork legs off so next is to change the seals in them Ah, one thing, found a nicer chain guard, it also have the metal inserts so you don't tight the plastic to much so it cracks. It's from a 88-89 but 100% alike the 86, the sticker has wrong size tires thro, oh well, will be other size on bike anyway

I've replaced the air temp and water temp sensors but they went bad within days of fiddling with other stuff so I likely messed with something related, other then then regular maintenance work, parts and fluids it has been flawless, original clutch and timing chain/tensioner even, oh I almost forgot, I did replace the fork seals once. It's due for some TLC, my daughter and possibly my wife will be using the NC to learn to ride. It's perfect for a first motorcycle

Wow, nearly 236,000 faultless kilometres, great testament to Honda reliability, nice looking bike. Hope the 1200 lives up to the enjoyment and durability you've had with the NC700X. Sure hope my 2014 8gen VFR can live up to that mileage - I have no future replacement plans for my VFR, now at over 96,000kms. Cheers

2015 Honda VFR Intercepter Deluxe- One senior owner. My wife bought this bike for me for my 70th birthday and it has been garaged since new. Health issues require that I give up riding. The Deluxe model of the 2015 Intercepter includes Traction Control, Anti-skid Braking, Self-canceling Turn Signals, Heated Grips, and a Center-stand- items which are not included on the standard model. Mileage is 24,218. Bike is in like new condition with the exception of very minor plastic damage on left side. I dropped the bike at 0 mph while attempting a u-turn on a narrow dead-end street (don’t always rely on your GPS). Rear seat cowl and rear passenger grab handles have never been mounted but are included. Equipped with Michelin Pilot Road 4GT tires with just under 2000 miles of use. Dual port USB charger and voltmeter installed as well as 1 inch handlebar risers. Located in Denver, NC (just north of Charlotte) post id: 7737270774 posted: 6 days ago

In addition to Skids' excellent suggestions... I added Heli bars, the Honda OEM center stand, and Honda OEM heated grips, and was very happy with all three improvements. The 2010 stock seat was significantly improved in later years (2012 and later?), you might want to look into that. Also, did your bike get the drive shaft recall done? I do miss that bike! But I guess I've said that about almost every one I've owned...

The only time I'd spend 20k on a motorcycle it would be this one. VID-20240406-WA0049.mp4

I payed mid $3K for all of mine. They have more than that in suspension components alone. It's not about the money.

Don't mean to rain on the parade, but I bought a pristine '98 with 14K miles for $2000 a few years ago. That was a good deal, but I don't think any 5th gen is worth $6K.

Up for sale is my gorgeous VFR 800. I bought it late of 2020 with only 2800 miles on it. It was bone stock. Over the last few years I've made some tasteful modifications. Pazzo levers, Heli-bars, Puig screen, Two Bros. can, EBC-HH pads, Sargent seat, black and gold RK chain and sprocket. Changed out the 23 year old brake and clutch hoses for HEL lines. (Don't even ask what they cost). Had DMr re-valve and respring the rear shock for a 200 lb rider. Front forks were serviced, re-sealed and re-sprung accordingly. Replaced the fork tubes due to some minor pitting. Every fluid on the bike has been flushed at least once. Bridgestone Battleax's have plenty of life left. Replaced the plugs and air cleaner out of boredom, and the Yuasa battery is one season old. Always garaged and on a tender. All the fasteners, bolts and push pins are OEM correct and in place. I have the stock muffler, hoses, complete tool kit with spanners, both keys, rear spring, grab handles and hardware. I should have the stock clip-ons somewhere. Small rock chip on left fairing, and a couple hardly visible scratches on the lower right fairing. Asking $6000.

Pull a plug and check for white spots? I ran a free flowing exhaust for some 150,000 miles on my VFR750's and RC51 so far. None of them went BOOM and made me crash, burn and die.... 🙂

That makes me uncomfortable in my chair every time...

The Harbor Freight unit works well enough, I used it for years, but can scratch rims up unless you're very careful. Upgraded to the No-mar unit a few years ago. They aren't cheap but paying those prices, driving 45 minutes to the nearest shop for me, waiting around, still getting my rims scratched by the new kid, it pays for itself after a couple of years.

35 miles on VFR98 later: Seat of the pants...there's no question that it runs better and smoother. I do not think that it is the new plugs, as they looked just fine, so that leaves me with the flapper and/or PAIR delete to credit/blame. 🙂 The new Roadsmart IIIs felt super too. The brake pads took a few stops, but now feel really nice and linear. I'm dreadful about wearing parts down to nothing before swapping them out...and trying to get to just shy of the end of reserve before filling up! Mello dude, thanks for the info on the flapper/PAIR mods to the 2000 with the O2 sensors and cat, and of course for the superb block off plates. I'd like to wrap it all up on VFR00 too. Thanks to the forum. I've been able to make so many useful and inexpensive mods to the VFRs because of you guys.

"one" what? Is this bike coming out of Winter storage for Spring by any chance? Sounds like you need the carbs cleaned/rebuilt.