dozyproductions Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 I'm going to continue my research but if you guys wouldn't mind helping me out in the meantime...I just replaced a dead battery yesterday. I replaced my r/r with a FH020AA perhaps 2 days before. Tonight I was trying to get back home from work and the bike sputtered and then nothing. I got a co worker to jump start the bike but it still wouldn't get it started. I have a voltmeter mounted on the bike and it continued to read 12.5. Oddly enough, I gave it a running start and it indeed worked. The voltmeter continued to read 12.5 while I was on 4-6k rpms. I got home and just tried to see if I could start the bike again. Nothing. The voltmeter still reads at 12.5 while the bike is off atm. Can anyone help? Btw, it's a 98 vfr800. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 12.5 isn't enough. Should be charging more along the lines of 13.8-14.5. Did you do "the drill" & check the stator output? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Sounds like you replaced a good RR, and the real problem is the stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted March 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2015 You didn't mention if the motor cranks and won't start, or if everything is simply dead. In addition to the above, if everything's dead, also check the main fuses, particularly at the starter relay and be sure the connections there are clean and tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 This was at 1:30 in the am so didn't do any real checking beyond the main fuse, which is okay, so I guess that's up to today. The motor doesn't crank anymore. When I turn the key, the lights turn on but that's about it. Thanks you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2015 I know it seems to be over cautious to replace both the stator and R\R BUT your's is a example of why most of us do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 haha, yeah I honestly don't know why I didn't also replace the stator. My last bike I just did all three at once. I'll pull the cover off and see if she's crispy. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted March 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2015 Check the stator output and resistance levels with a multi-meter. Are your lights bright? do they turn off when the starter is supposed to be starting? I wonder if its a starter switch issue and some compromised wiring. I love the VFRness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Lights are dim and turn off when the starter is supposed to be starting. I will say that the reason why I had to replace the r/r was because there were some burnt wires but I had a shop look over that. Seems about time I buy a multimeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted March 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2015 After installing a VFRness, I got an extra volt out of my recharging system. It sounds like some power might be lost in the connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2015 Seems about time I buy a multimeter. You're never gonna know how the system is doing without one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Could be just a dead/damaged battery. They can show a high enough voltage at your voltmeter but no cranking amps to get the motor going. Have the battery tested at your local dealership or cycle parts store and buy a new one if it does not pass testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Seems about time I buy a multimeter. You're never gonna know how the system is doing without one. I know I'm stumbling one foot after another but is there a link/how to on how to test, with the multimeter, the electrical system? I'm assuming it's more than just the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanyol Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Download the Service Manual it's all in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 13, 2015 Seems about time I buy a multimeter. You're never gonna know how the system is doing without one. I know I'm stumbling one foot after another but is there a link/how to on how to test, with the multimeter, the electrical system? I'm assuming it's more than just the battery. And remember when one fells , most times, the other component is affected. For me the one I did not replace usually craps out at about 150 miles from home . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Thanks for the help guys. Remember that shop I mentioned installed the r/r?, well it seemed that the wires from the stator to r/r were only crimped and not soldered so one was disconnected. I'm taking the bike back to the shop for them to repair it but to pay two bills for crimped wires is a bit f'ed. So I guess in the mean time I'll have them check anything else while they're in the process... just if I want them to look at it, I have to cease and desist for the moment. I want to ask, would one stator to r/r disconnected wire cause the symptoms that I'm having? Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2015 YES +1 ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 haha obvious right? I just don't know if I want to ditch this shop, do the repairs myself then it be something else and thus be hosed by any 'warranty' I get from the shop. They fucking crimped the wires though. That's just irritating to type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted March 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2015 Crimping wires is one thing, connecting 2 of the 3 wires from the stator is another, incompetence I'd say. Get a $10 multimeter from Harbor Freight, then go through https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf after they correct the stator connection of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 okay, couldn't and wouldn't take it to the shop. Made a really nice crimp and then put the back on. Now my tail light works but not my brake light lol. Thanks for everything. Hadn't found my needed service manual before or bought my multimeter yet so thanks for getting me off my ass! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozyproductions Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 So with that brake light issue... looked around the bike and tried to see what the it was. The tail light was one but perhaps not as bright as it could be. After I reconnected the front brake light switch I got only my right brake light to turn on. Checked the bulbs, they both look fine. but the the left brake still remains off. I took a look at my rear brake light switch and everything looked sealed and connected. Tried playing with the spring and still no response from the rear brake. Checked with the multimeter if there's current going to each light bulb socket when I press in the front brake switch. Reads between 7-8v for both sockets. Nothing when depressing the rear brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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