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TNRabbit

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Everything posted by TNRabbit

  1. I'll jump on the bandwagon. This bike has EXCELLENT brakes & if yours doesn't something isn't right
  2. I'm not familiar with it; what exactly does it do & how easy is it to fit?
  3. Krylon Cherry Red is pretty close. that was six coats
  4. You shouldn't have continuity between the three legs & ground so that is correct
  5. I've been through a couple of sets of PR4s & they are just outstanding. A felllow VFR buddy has a 6th gen--he uses angel GT's and he swears by them also. Neither tire will disappoint you.
  6. I have the same issue with a cheap clutch handle I installed. Thinking about epoxying a small piece of metal on it....
  7. Lots of folks use EBC pads on their VFRs....sure you ordered the right ones?
  8. Weird fix. I soldered an additional 10" pigtail onto the powerlet harness ground & grounded it directly to the frame at a better point. Now have 13.2 volts at the powerlet plug & 14.2 at the battery at charge. That's down .2 from before but at this point I'm glad to take it. Been stressing hard the past couple of days~
  9. Yeah, I've spent the last day checking & cleaning all connections. Battery I have in reserve was the one I replaced...it wasn't charging well when I put a new R/R on last month. Replaced it with this Lithium Ion battery & it's charged like a champ since. I will reiterate again IT WAS WORKING FINE UNTIL I INSTALLED THE VFRNESS. Now I can't get the 14.4 charge back even though I've gone back to the OEM harness. Battery is new & has the same standing rate & rate under load that it had when I installed it.
  10. No joy; tomorrow's ride cancelled: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78371-virginia-charlottesville-points-south-sunday-june-22nd/
  11. OK guys....need some help. I'm due to lead a ride at 9 a.m. tomorrow morning and I need to get this thing fixed. I've removed all the VFRness connections & gone back to the original connectors. I'm getting 17-86 volts AC at the stator output, and 16.5 (??) volts DC at the R/R output. I'm only seeing 13.5 volts at the battery & fuse panel. In addition, I'm only getting fractions of a volt DC at the powerlet plug in the steering stem..... Obviously there is a bad connection somewhere....I'm guessing a ground somewhere was knocked loose when I was installing everything Any other suggestions from those with electrical troubleshooting experience? Stator & R/R readings were done at the output with the connector off (disconnected). I have a 3 volt power drop from the R/R output to the battery. I've double check all connections I can identify in that path & can't for the life of me figure out what the hell happened. I cleaned all connections & added OxGuard, thought maybe that was he problem....went back & cleaned it all off...no change. The battery has a standing voltage of between 13.2 & 13.7 volts with everything off. Whan I turn the key, it drops to 12.8-12.9 just as it did before. However, when I start it, it never gets above 13.7 volts (5k rpm) and drops to as low as 13.4 (idle). Before this, I had a steady 14.4 throughout most of the RPM range. I'm stumped. As of right now, I'm out of the ride tomorrow. Ideas?
  12. NOT HAPPY right now. Got everything connected & my charging voltage has dropped from 14.4 to 13.8!! Not only that, but I'm only getting 9 volts at the output on the Powerlet run to the steering stem.... SO, I disconnected everything & put it back as it was yesterday before I started and my charging voltage is still only 13.8 (or lower)!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH!!! *steaming* Not using a screwdriver; used 10mm socket & 10" extension, as I said above~
  13. Up front, I wanted to let everyone know that my system charges like a champ & all my connectors are OEM and look like new. I chose to install the VFRness & fuse harness as a preventative measure & don't like jury-rigging electrical connections to a tail light like SO MANY do~ For some reason, half the pictures I took didn't show up on the camera, so sorry there's not more detail. Well, whoever said there was a lot of wire to tuck into place was right~ First of all, Joshua has been GREAT, but these instruction suck-a-bag-of-dicks. PICTURES are needed!! The instructions say to thread the harness down & around the bottom of the battery box; I don't know what the hell that means! I finally gave up & tucked them however best I could as shown above. The key is to get the positive battery connection in a good position to match up with the positive terminal while getting the R/R connections to fit in between the frame rail, and connecting the green ground wire to a suitable location (instructions said to use the front R/R bolt which I did...I sanded off the paint around the hole & used OxGuard for a good connection). Other than that, it really doesn't matter where the wires go. Second, the instructions say to REMOVE the battery cover--a PITA to do & not necessary. Just flip it up & out of the way--a bungee to hold it out of the way is valuable here (those wires were to the voltage meter & were incorporated into the new fuse block/harness). Remove all the fuses in the harnesses, including the 30 amp in the bike, BEFORE you begin in order to avoid accidentally finding a ground source with one of the positive wires~ In this pic, the factory main fuse is in the white fuse terminal with red wiring on the left: This should go without saying, but be especially careful when dealing with the positive battery terminal (I use a 10 mm socket on a 10" extension) -- good place to melt the beejeezus out of a tool if you contact the frame while touching the + terminal. I used OxGuard on EVERY DAMN CONNECTION, including the fuses. Don't have any issues & don't want any. Get some small zip ties & use them liberally to keep everything in place. I LOATHE these types of connectors but ended up using one on the license plate positive wire for the sake of getting this done (it was 2 in the morning & I couldn't locate a better switched wire to connect to). This wire is for the fuse harness relay so it is an extremely low current draw & I wasn't too worried about drawing any significant power. I plan to goop sealer all around it to avoid any issues as this area does get some dirt/water thrown up from the rear tire. You'll only need to remove the plug between the R/R & the wiring harness; the plug from stator to R/R stays in place. You basically inserting the VFRness in between the R/R & factory wiring harness to give a direct-to-battery path with heavy wiring. In the picture below, the bottom connector goes to the R/R & the top goes to the factory harness plug you just unplugged from the R/R: Sorry that wasn't more clear; like I said I took a bunch of pics but they didn't show up (user error probably~). If anyone doing this has questions, please PM me & I can walk you through it over the phone.
  14. Just finished installing the harness but didn't get around to the powerlet outlet yet...that will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon. Pics will get loaded tomorrow. A picture sure would have been nice as the instructions weren't real clear. I thought the fuse block was wired into the VFRness but they are two separate harnesses.
  15. VFRness bundle & a Powerlet steering head plug kit from Joshua @ wiremybike.com: ...and a powerlet--to-dual-USB adapter from amazon.com: It's supposed to rain Saturday so I know what I'll be doing in the garage~
  16. It just does a direct route. It would be better if it chose "motorcycle friendly" roads instead of the most direct path. I can do that on Google maps. I know you can choose waypoints, but I just don't see the utility over anything else.
  17. I already know my next set of tires will be the excellent Michelin Pilot Road 3s, but I'm curious if anyone has ever fitted larger than stock on their 5th gen with good results. Are you better off sticking with the stock size, or going slightly bigger? (speedometer issues aside)
  18. Replaced the signal indicator & LCD backlight bulbs with LEDs on my bike this week; blue for the LCD & amber for the turn signal indicators: Looks great! 3 of the 5 instrument bulbs were burned out so I can now see how fast I'm going at night~ I'm thinking about trying UV (black) light LEDs to see if it gives the instruments any additional "pop"..
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