Member Contributer Cogswell Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 With the bike apart for other projects, I took the opportunity to inspect the stator. At 18,000 miles, all's been working fine - connectors perfect, stator passes all tests (resistance, etc), steady 14.6 volt output, new Yuasa battery - starts every time. Thinking back on other posts, IIRC 6th gen stator failures have been reported anywhere from 14,000 miles to 50,000 +. Upon inspection, I found about what I expected. Dark at the top, normal at the bottom. Looking at the upper nodes though, there appears to be "junk" between the wiring - I was able to use a stir stick to fish some of it out as can be seen in one of the photos. Cooked wiring insulation? Normal "wear", or nearing fatal condition? It certainly looks worse than the stator in this (pinned) post. (more .pics below)http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/29102-stator-tests/ Even though it's working fine, unless there's a compelling reason to keep it service, my inclination is to replace it now while in the comfort of my garage. At times I ride in some remote areas or am a long way from home and I need the bike's reliability to be bulletproof. I don't want to be 1,000 miles away, waiting at a motel for a part to be Fedex'd to me so I can make this repair in a parking lot somewhere. My questions are:1. Has anyone seen a stator fail in or near this condition? Replace it now and avoid the headache a long way from home?2. How . . . do you fish the wire across the "V"? After separating the connector, I pushed it through as far as I could, then tried pulling on it from the stator side and it won't even budge. Remove the airbox?3. The gasket came off intact with the cover. I've read that an acceptable technique is to put a thin film of grease on the gasket and re-assemble - and it will not leak. 4. Has anyone used Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL lately? I thought I remember that they were going to close down due to the owner's health issues. Thoughts? Opinions?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zRoYz Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Just a question how often do you do oil changes? I just replaced a stator (110000kms 02 model) that worked now & then (passed tests when motor cold) which didn't look as bad as yours, the insulation is breaking down badly & I would say failure or even intermittent failure is not far away, unless you have voltmeter attached to bike you don't know when intermittent problems start. I would replace it or in the very least install a voltmeter to monitor. I would also replace the gasket for the price it isn't worth the pain if you do have a leak & using gasket goo will leave a larger clean up the next time. The wiring across the V is a pain because with the plug on stator it doesn't pass through the coolant hoses etc under the throttle bodies just trying to pull it through. I just cut the old one off & then removed airbox to pass the new stator wiring/plug through. I'm also not a fan of rewinds unless the company has allot of experience with motorbike stators, yes any motor rewind company should be able to do it but like anything there would be little tricks to the process for a motorbike stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2FAST4U Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 My stator went out at 53k and left me stranded. The tech showed me my old one and it looked like yours does now. I had it and the gasket replaced with genuine Honda parts. Wasn't cheap (>$600). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted January 3, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 Thanks guys for the input - very helpful. The longest oil change interval has been 4,600 miles - but is usually around 3,500 or so - and at least annually. It kind of does look like trash from the oil, but I don't think that's it. I got some more of it out and rubbed it between my fingers - it feels hard and crunchy. Roger that on the gasket. Since I've got this thing so far apart, I'll probably just remove the airbox to R/R it. Dang, Honda sure makes it difficult to service these bikes. I do run a volt meter - I'd recommend one to everyone - they should come with one from the factory. As much as I didn't want to do this inspection, I'm very glad I did. Without looking, it's like riding along with a ticking bomb and no way of knowing when it's going to go off! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2FAST4U Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 I actually had a warning sign but since I didn't know what to make of it, I ignored it (big mistake). I was in south Texas and, out of the blue, the FI light came on (although FI stands for Fuel Injection, it's really a general Check Engine light). My bike was running fine and so I ignored it. A few miles later I pulled over, shut the engine off and restarted it. It not only started right away but the FI light was no longer on. Thinking it must have been a fluke, I figured everything was OK and so I kept riding (what I didn't know at the time was that the stator was going out). Feeling adventurous, I decided to ride into Mexico. I had no idea where I'd be going. I just kept riding and riding and riding. The pictures you see here were taken in north central Mexico. I was out in the middle of nowhere (actually I wasn't too far from Zacatecas). After spending a couple nights down there, I decided to head home (Dallas). About 30 miles south of Dallas, I stopped at a gas station to fill up. When I tried starting my bike, it wouldn't start. No matter what I did, it wouldn't start. The stator finally went out. That initial FI light was the only clue I had something was (about to go) wrong; i.e. I never saw it again. I dodged a bullet because I could have gotten stranded anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 I'm in the same boat as everyone else. Sorry, I'd replace it. The insulation is cooked. What you find is that when it is hot there will be shorts between windings and all the cold testing will not show them up. Mine failed at about 55000km and left me stranded on a motorway. Replace, replace, replace! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee 2002 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I'm also not a fan of rewinds unless the company has allot of experience with motorbike stators, yes any motor rewind company should be able to do it but like anything there would be little tricks to the process for a motorbike stator. I would not be hesitant to let any well-established, reputable local motor rewind shop rewind my stator. It truly isn't rocket science and there is nothing unique to a motorcycle stator that they haven't seen in any three-phase motor. The only thing they may get stuck on would be any proprietary electrical connections to connect to the R/R. If you really have a lot of gumption, you could get on eBay and order the correct gauge "magnet wire", some fiberglass insulating tube and some Glyptal or "high dielectric bake-to-cure resin" and give it a go yourself. If you are like me.... you probably wouldn't want to use this as your primary stator.. but it could be the cheap one you throw in your bag as a back-up when you take off on that long trip. It would get you back home in a pinch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 Very dangerous , what if it shorts out and blows the 30A main fuse while your in curve . Replace it your half done already . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Your shelack is heavily melted. only time will tell when it actually shorts out, but not too far off. Ive been sitting on a $200 stator for a couple months waiting for mine to go, but I have well over 50,000 miles on this particular stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 Replace it since you already have it out. Cut the plug off the stator wires to remove and also cut the new plug to thread the wires back through the V. Solder them to the RR side and add a good ground from RR directly to the frame where RR attaches. Add a monitor wire from RR directly to the battery. Never have charging issues again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2FAST4U Posted January 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2015 OK, I've got a triple whammy here: 1) I should have used the word glitch instead of fluke (i.e. I thought the FI light going on was a minor malfunction). 2) The total cost to replace my stator was not over $600. It was $598. 3) Those pictures were taken in San Luis Potosi, Mexico (not Zacatecas). :sad2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Definitrly swap it for a new one now you have the cover off and have Prodded and Possibly Removed Some insulation Material with the stirer. That's Surely about to Turn From stator to gremlin.It Doesn't have to be an OEM Replacement. I currently have a Rewound One in my 6th gen and it's doing ok for Some 10,000 km now. A little low output at idle but the guy says it's cause the Rick's R/R isn't the best for his wind and has Recommended me Another Type. I haven't bothered and no Dramas. I just Take care to Turn Headlights off when I'm Idling (when Possible) and only run One when on the go.The Trick with getting the wires through the Motor is to tie some Spare thick gauge wire to The connector BEFORE you pull it across to the LHS!!! Then you Just tie the wire to the New one and pull it back through, with caution and patience, From the RHS. I wrapped a little tape around the connector and formed a Nice Round shape so there were no edges to catch on anything.I've managed to reuse the Gasket a few Times on different bikes but only when they merely suffer a Small break where the rubber grommet is for the wires to exit the cover. If it's in bad shape, use a new One!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted January 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2015 Keep the old one and take that with you on a long trip so you have at least *something* to put in the bike in the middle of nowhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I ended up changing the one on my 5th gen this year on the way to Indy for MotoGP and it wasn't much fun (68,000 miles on the stator and R/R). I only had one issue several weeks before the trip that made me think something might be wrong before leaving on the trip, so I took my spare stator, R/R, gasket, and tools. Well, the problem got worse as I rode it, so decided to change out everything and haven't had a problem since. Even though I thought I was prepared with everything I needed, it still took me a few hours to strip the Beetle bags, tail, side fairing, etc. off to replace the stuff. I still forgot a few tools too. My stator was held on with torx bolts....all I brought were allen sockets. I forgot to bring a gasket scraper too. When I got home, I pulled it all back apart and soldered the wires too instead of leaving the crimp connectors on. I think I picked up about 0.5 volts by doing that and shortening the extra wire I had left on R/R. If I could do it all over, I would have done it at home in the comfort of my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Yeah some of them are Torx and some of them are Allen. I've changed about 10 stators on buddies VFRs and come across that. Like you said it can be done on the road but it's way comfier/easier at home or in s.o.'s garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 No rhyme or reason to the Torx or Allen? Mine is a 5th gen with Torx. Maybe the 5th gens have Torx and 6th gen are Allen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC24 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Torx? For internal components? That's something VW would do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 No rhyme or reason to the Torx or Allen? Mine is a 5th gen with Torx. Maybe the 5th gens have Torx and 6th gen are Allen? I found no Common denominator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted January 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2015 FWIW, my 5th gen's are Torx too, the 6th as in the photos Allen. It might be whatever Honda gets the best deal on at any given time. Personally, I had an easier time with the Allens than the Torx. +1 to doing this job at home . . . everything I need is at hand, the bike can sit for a week or two if needed, no potential towing/recovery expenses and no wasted vacation. At any rate, stator is out and on its way to Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL. I'll post up results when it returns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFROr Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Here's what mine looks like. Slightly less cooked than Cogswell's?? I'm going to put it back in for now, contemplate replacing it in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 17, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2015 I also believe it cooks your oil when your stator runs that hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted February 17, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2015 Yes I agree, it cannot be all that good for the oil as well. Bike electrics have been an issue for as long as I can remember. Hopefully the MOSFET type R/R do a better job than the old shunt type these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 18, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2015 VFRor, yours looks well on its way... With Tightwad coming over to the NL I had him bring a new one (as well as a Mosfet RR) Here my (4th gen) with 50k miles on her; I could have continued with this one no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted February 18, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2015 Your old stator looks good Dutchy .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted February 18, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2015 That's the way it should be - these things should not be getting BBQ'd after 20,000 miles. The way that one's going it looks like it would last the life of the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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