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Just maintenance which was overdue but was kicked off when my stator failed, you expect a stator failure at some point & mine lasted 95000kms 12 years so no complaints. So replaced stator & also R/R, there was nothing wrong with current R/R but didn't have molex plug as wires were straight soldered & had new spare stator & R/R ready for when required, will purchase another set when our $$ better as there are a consumable part on any bike it's always just a matter of time & I'm never going to sell the VFR. That kicked off me doing valves which I haven't looked at in 60000kms, only exhaust were out & I removed the APE manual cam chain tenioners because there a pathetic design & leak oil, went back to standard. While I was there had injectors cleaned & flow tested not because there were playing up but just for peace of mind with age & 100000kms on the clock & starter valve balance. While apart cleaned every electrical connection & applied dielectric grease, which I try to do yearly but hadn't done in about 3 years, also changed my geometry a little to test out as want a little more front loading. Then there is new chain & sprockets, old chain still fine but is developing a tight spot so thought why not replace them because the last thing I ever want is to be away & have issues. In the time I have owned my 04 not once have I been riding & it let me down except for the odd puncher so would like to keep it that way. I would like to do more day rides weekends as most I normally ride with don't do them just the trips away which are to few & far between, but there is the week away PI in november we do & there is also a 2 week trip to TAS in 2017 late feb to early march.

Bugger need a ride to make sure all the work I have just completed on my ride has no problems, but alas just this morning I agreed to go to a bbq with the misses Sunday. I also don't look at this forum as much as I used to so join the ozvfr fb group if you havent already & post rides there, I'm more likely to see them.

I have replaced my hub assembly, I noticed movement when removing wheel for new tyre. A good check is when bike on center stand grab wheel & try to wiggle you can feel movement if bearings bad, just don't mistake the small amount of movement in shock linkages is the hub. I have a press so removed bearings from hub but due to reason tyre was being changed for trip away I was time limited to fix before trip & couldn't get replacement bearings in time. But lucky for me a mate had a new hub assembly for his 5th gen which is a different part number to the 6th gen but fits the same. There isn't much cost difference buying complete hub & buying the bearings, if you add the time etc to fit bearings the hub replacement is the way to go. It was an effort to remove hub from bike & axle from hub because of build up of dirt corrosion, the worn bearings had little grease (I added extra grease to replacement hub). It is recommended you also replace the hub nut when replacing mainly due to locking collar you punch down into slot once nut at torque.

Those bars will simply be to low for the vfr you can simply see that by placing that mounting plate over your existing vfr triple. Due to your new forks length you also wont have enough tube to mount clipons above triple clamp. You also wont get enough rise or adjustment with helibars when mounted under top triple, you have to use a clipon system like convertibars or the mx type bar conversion.

Due to the length of your forks you will have to mount the clipons bellow top triple like the convertibars in most cases, or do the top triple motocross type bar conversion. Just as a rule of thumb for you as have done many a conversion 6th gen, from bottom of frame were steering head bearing is too center of axle you want about 510mm of fork length.

NEVER under estimate the power of your passion, you may surprise yourself & everybody else, it is amazing what just cleaning/polishing/painting achieves, have fun with your build.

So this is the special project, now I will be very honest as we all like different things I'm not a fan of street fighters, cafe racers or naked bikes, my idea of a naked format is a MX or enduro that I can cover in mud in the bush. But what I like about this bike that appeals to me is 1. it's blue my fav colour. 2. the gen5/6 rear wheel I'm sick of everybody thinking the gen 3 rear wheel is the bee's knees, again my fav is the gen 5/6. 3. the CBR 08> tail it is again in my opinion the best looking stream line tail, it is a shame on the CBR the front is pig ugly. 4, attention to finishing everything with detail. Great work seb but were is the gun holder, some of your gun modifications are my fav mods you do outstanding :-)

There is noway in hell that shock bent like that in shipping, at a guess it has been mistreated or off a crashed bike.

I didn't read this thread before changing a 6th gen stator & fly wheel & kaldek on page two does show the special tool required to remove fly wheel. My Honda special tool is a standard 20mm metric fine bolt (metric fine is 1.5mm pitch thread). Screw bolt into flywheel place ratchet gun on bolt & flywheel comes off in a second. zero need to modify a puller or buy any special tool.

Well, I was curious too and phoned EBC's technical support in the UK. They have never heard of this, nor would they recommend doing it. If you still want to go ahead, because neglect caused matters to corrode, be careful not to over tighten the bolt and nut because you do not want to compress the bobbin to a point it may damage or crack. So this goes into the category "broodje aap" +1 this thread makes me cringe, a brake rotor is a life saving device & any failure can be life threatening yet people are willing to force tempered material straight when warped & use other means to free up locating bobbins. I hope those willing to do such things have the parts x-rayed before reuse, but then that would cost more than simply replacing the faulty parts. Please people replace faulty rotors with new ones your life is worth it.

My question was answered, thanks. I have zero experience with the TBR headers on a 6th gen mainly because there unattainable at present unless your really lucky like CandyRedRC46 so his impression of those on his 6th gen is worth the read. As far as fitments I feel shipping/handling of all the headers mentioned probably causes problems, I have fitted 3 sets of Motad & they all bolted up perfectly. Seeing people have an example of TBR headers & know details has anybody approached a custom exhaust manufacturer & asked price to replicate in a more realistic production run. You just need a computerised madrel tube bender & a jig made for the welding, the cost would be more than the TBR with a production run of 100 units but would happen sooner than maybe not at all.

"The motad made no noticeable or measurable difference in real world riding" that is not correct at all mainly because the difference fitting any header over the standard is the removal of the cat which makes an instant difference on real world riding. If you find any combination that works for your setup that is a bonus, I found the Laser cans worked better with the Motad headers than the LEO. It also would come down to what your after low/mid/high performance & from what I read the TBR is aimed at high. I also have zero idea if dyno I supplied is calibrated perfectly, in fact any dyno you have done final fig can be out unless dyno was calibrated just before your run. I'm sure finding the best possible out come is finding what combination of parts/mods work the best, it would be great to have Motad, Delkevic, TBR headers & then allot of after market cans to test different combos on a dyno.

There are allot of posts in this thread which I haven't really followed so what I'm going to post may have already been covered or posted but I'll fire away anyway. I have ridden a 4th gen with the TBR headers & wasn't impressed at all in fact I would go so fare as to say the bike lost performance, yes the bike was jetted to suit but it lost so much punch down low. I would say pc & dyno tune with a EFI gen TBR would probably perform better down low. But I have to ask the question why do people want the TBR headers when the Motad headers are aval now & they also provide a good performance increase & fit well. Bellow is my dyno with Motad & LEO cans, my original map (red) was old dyno map I had with Motad & Lasers & it's a shame I can't find the print out because that combo made 115hp (I lost power with the LEO's). I would still have the Lasers but sold bike with that combo & when I bought bike back which had exhaust back to stock fitted LEO's for the weight saving (I was surprised the Lasers had better performance). Just some food for thought. Bike with Motad & Laser Bike with Motad & LEO's