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About Nelso90

  • Birthday 01/24/1990

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  • Location
    Duluth, MN
  • In My Garage:
    2002 VFR800 Interceptor
    1960 MGA 1600
    2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI (6MT)

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  1. Good to know on the coil packs. If I end up replacing those I'll check around. I did the intake snorkel delete and flapper valve mod because it sounded better, pure and simple. I wanted some more intake growl. It didn't seem to affect the bike really other than sound and it's run well for years prior.
  2. For some context I was coming home from work yesterday, approximately 92F outside and I chose to take surface streets so I wasn't going too fast. The bike got up to 223F coolant temp, fan came on as normal and cooled things down. As I kept riding I started to notice a "popping" noise out of the intake (my flapper has been deactivated) when I would let off the throttle and slow down. With this popping/gurgling noise would come a slight lurch...like barely noticeable. As I kept riding, the bike seemed to start missing under part throttle. If I whacked the throttle open it would run totally fine, but trying to maintain any cruising speed say under 10% throttle position and it just kept surging and lurching and cutting out. I had this happen a few years ago when I lived in Indiana, and it got so bad the bike would just die and I'd have to wait for it to cool before it would even restart. When I got home, I parked the bike and raised the revs to around 3-4k (hard to keep them steady anyway on these bikes) and it would just rev up and cut out totally, then cut back in, then out again. My first inkling on this one is maybe it's ignition coils getting heat soaked and breaking up...but before I replace $270 worth of those I figured I'd get some help. Thanks,
  3. Thanks for the fast responses guys. I will get a standard VFRNess on order today. Should I go ahead and replace my rectifier? The current draw from the battery at key off is worrisome, but as long as the VFRness fixes it, we should be good.
  4. Hey guys, guess 40k miles is time for me to get on the electrical gremlin bandwagon here with my 2002 non ABS. The issues began about a month ago, at work. Key on, hit starter, and she was dead. I tried to jump start the bike, but the second I removed the auxiliary battery, it died. Went to Interstate (In a 52hp Diesel Jetta) to get another battery, installed it, ran great. I figured the battery was sulfated and it had an internal short. Fast forward another month and it did the exact same thing. I knew about the R/R and stator issues, so I figured I would tear her down and see what was up. Lo and behold...whoa So the R/R to stator connection was bad. I assume this means the R/R is bad also. I ohmed the stator out per sec. 17 of the shop manual, and everything was within spec. All I have read on the R/R is that I cannot test it at home. I figure it's bad though since the connector was fried. Really fried. I checked voltage through the battery negative as I did in the first place to determine if there was still a current drain and there was, I calculated it to approximately 0.4 amps, more than enough to kill a battery in a night. This being the case I made my way through the wiring diagram, looking over all the fuses, and I ran across a couple of items. The first was the red connector over the green starter relay. It was melted on the terminal that takes the RED wire. I pulled the fuse (30 amp, main fuse A), which caused the current draw from the battery to stop. I also noticed the holder for main fuse A was slightly discolored, but I do not view it as a contributing issue yet. Disconnecting that fuse did nothing to my current draw. Once I isolated the current draw to that circuit, I followed the red wire to the keyswitch, which tested good per sec. 20-21 of the manual. I then followed the red/green wire to the instrument panel and unplugged that 20 pin connector, which stopped the current draw. To summarize, This bike keeps killing batteries I found a totally destroyed R/R to stator connection Stator ohmed out OK Battery still is being drained whilst R/R is NOT connected (0.43A @ 12.7V battery voltage) 30 amp Fuse A connector is melted at green connector (red wire) 30 amp Fuse B connector is beginning to discolor. Current draw ceases once Fuse A is pulled Current draw ceases if instrument panel (20 pin) plug is disconnected (no discoloration on this connector) I am pretty stumped as to why this is happening as it seems nobody mentions instrument panel, nor the fuse on the starter solenoid. Any suggestions on what I should test/replace? I figure I am in it for a new Rectifier and fuse holder, but I fear it could be more.
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