Hey guys, guess 40k miles is time for me to get on the electrical gremlin bandwagon here with my 2002 non ABS.
The issues began about a month ago, at work. Key on, hit starter, and she was dead. I tried to jump start the bike, but the second I removed the auxiliary battery, it died. Went to Interstate (In a 52hp Diesel Jetta) to get another battery, installed it, ran great. I figured the battery was sulfated and it had an internal short.
Fast forward another month and it did the exact same thing. I knew about the R/R and stator issues, so I figured I would tear her down and see what was up. Lo and behold...whoa
So the R/R to stator connection was bad. I assume this means the R/R is bad also. I ohmed the stator out per sec. 17 of the shop manual, and everything was within spec. All I have read on the R/R is that I cannot test it at home. I figure it's bad though since the connector was fried.
Really fried.
I checked voltage through the battery negative as I did in the first place to determine if there was still a current drain and there was, I calculated it to approximately 0.4 amps, more than enough to kill a battery in a night. This being the case I made my way through the wiring diagram, looking over all the fuses, and I ran across a couple of items. The first was the red connector over the green starter relay. It was melted on the terminal that takes the RED wire. I pulled the fuse (30 amp, main fuse A), which caused the current draw from the battery to stop. I also noticed the holder for main fuse A was slightly discolored, but I do not view it as a contributing issue yet. Disconnecting that fuse did nothing to my current draw.
Once I isolated the current draw to that circuit, I followed the red wire to the keyswitch, which tested good per sec. 20-21 of the manual. I then followed the red/green wire to the instrument panel and unplugged that 20 pin connector, which stopped the current draw.
To summarize,
This bike keeps killing batteries
I found a totally destroyed R/R to stator connection
Stator ohmed out OK
Battery still is being drained whilst R/R is NOT connected (0.43A @ 12.7V battery voltage)
30 amp Fuse A connector is melted at green connector (red wire)
30 amp Fuse B connector is beginning to discolor.
Current draw ceases once Fuse A is pulled
Current draw ceases if instrument panel (20 pin) plug is disconnected (no discoloration on this connector)
I am pretty stumped as to why this is happening as it seems nobody mentions instrument panel, nor the fuse on the starter solenoid. Any suggestions on what I should test/replace? I figure I am in it for a new Rectifier and fuse holder, but I fear it could be more.