Nelso90

Good to know on the coil packs. If I end up replacing those I'll check around. I did the intake snorkel delete and flapper valve mod because it sounded better, pure and simple. I wanted some more intake growl. It didn't seem to affect the bike really other than sound and it's run well for years prior.

For some context I was coming home from work yesterday, approximately 92F outside and I chose to take surface streets so I wasn't going too fast. The bike got up to 223F coolant temp, fan came on as normal and cooled things down. As I kept riding I started to notice a "popping" noise out of the intake (my flapper has been deactivated) when I would let off the throttle and slow down. With this popping/gurgling noise would come a slight lurch...like barely noticeable. As I kept riding, the bike seemed to start missing under part throttle. If I whacked the throttle open it would run totally fine, but trying to maintain any cruising speed say under 10% throttle position and it just kept surging and lurching and cutting out. I had this happen a few years ago when I lived in Indiana, and it got so bad the bike would just die and I'd have to wait for it to cool before it would even restart. When I got home, I parked the bike and raised the revs to around 3-4k (hard to keep them steady anyway on these bikes) and it would just rev up and cut out totally, then cut back in, then out again. My first inkling on this one is maybe it's ignition coils getting heat soaked and breaking up...but before I replace $270 worth of those I figured I'd get some help. Thanks,

That's what I am leaning towards. I don't mind spending the money on the new shim, but 2 things make me not want to bother. Generally I've seen intake valves tend to go looser or stay the same, not tighter. Based on the condition of the other valves, I'd wager the valve has been at .005" its entire operational life. Also, if my understanding is right, the clearance isn't an issue for non VTEC running conditions as the bucket will always be in contact with the cam anyway due to the outer spring tension. The actual lash adjustment only comes into play during VTEC operation (aka .001% of the time). Let me know if my idea seems legit. This is kind of a new beast for me to tackle lol.

Finally got around to my front bank lash check. #2 VTEC intake valve is .005". Spec is .008 +/- .003. The shim I have in it now is a 279. If I got a 272 it'd be right at .008 or darn close. Were you in my shoes, would you order it or just run it?

EDIT: Man that was a pain. I think I have them aligned. I'll let you guys know how the rest of it goes. Any tips on how to position the cams just right? Hard to account for tension due to the lobes and the effect of the cam chain tensioner.

I've got a few pics, just reassembled everything and it looked right, now that it's all torqued down I am doubting whether I am a tooth off or not on the rear camshafts, it looks to me like they might need to both come clockwise one tooth. Ideas?

I am using the amp meter in series. It has leads and I put them in series with the circuit, going from the battery negative to the negative lead on the bike. It reads the same amp draw either way once I zero it. EDIT to my post last night 22:32 EST... Alright, got an update... I left the two main fuses, A and B near the battery, in place, and pulled all the other fuses (and the diode) in the box, as well as the small fuse in line to the fuel cut relay. I still got the current draw.

Switchblade, If I am reading correctly, my gauge is in amps, it's a radio shack combination amp clamp and DVOM. Model No. 22-172. I was reading between .3 and .4A depending on the battery state of charge.

Alright, got an update... I left the two main fuses, A and B near the battery, in place, and pulled all the other fuses (and the diode) in the box, as well as the small fuse in line to the fuel cut relay. I still got the current draw. I then proceeded to install everything back in place. Next, I tried the next logical step (in my mind) of pulling Fuse B and leaving the starter solenoid connector connected, as I still got a current draw when it was connected. That fuse feeds keyswitch power and the fuse going to the "clock." I pulled the keyswitch connector and it had no effect on the current draw. After this, I followed it back to the fuse, pulled it, and the draw went away. I pulled the 20 pin connector on the instrument cluster and the current draw went away again (oh sh*t.). I removed the cluster and pulled it apart only to find nothing wrong. No blown caps and no burn marks, no corrosion either. This leaves me at a bit of a dead end for that circuit, as fuse A only feeds the keyswitch (proven good) and the instrument cluster (nothing seen as bad). If I plug in Fuse B, I get the current draw again. This has me stymied, I do not know how I can get a draw on both items at the same time. Any ideas? I pulled the starter relay connector and it was slightly melted on the same pin with the red wire pictured above, but not bad enough to cause issue.

Hey rhoderage, I did notice my red connector was a touch melted looking. I am getting a new starter solenoid off Amazon too (I mean for 6 bucks...), and Switchblade, I will pull everything and see what happens with both main fuses installed.

Hey guys, So last I talked to you I had installed the VFRNess on my bike (thanks for the help TIghtwad!), ran all the tests, and went ahead and rode the bike to work, figured everything was great since the charging system was working. Well two push starts and a bit of swearing later, I've got more work. I removed the airbox and throttles to figure out an ECT sensor issue and give me better access to the rest of the wiring harness. I also disconnected the VFRNess so I could isolate the wiring back to stock. Stator tests good, R/R tests good also. OK, here's the issue. I can leave my bike sitting for 8 hours, and the battery dies. It seems to charge fine as it starts right up after I've ridden a while. I found I have a current draw and worked to isolate it down. The behavior is really strange. Per the wiring diagram, I went out from the two main fuses. If I pull either fuse A or fuse B, I get no change in the amp draw (about .45 amps). Now if I pull both, the draw goes to zero, but you'd think the current draw would be attributed to one fuse or the other since it appears they serve different circuits. here's the weird bit... With ONLY FUSE B connected, I disconnect the R/R connector feeding the bike, and the current draw disappears. Now if I disconnect that connector with both fuses in, there is no change. The other issue I have is my coolant temp display randomly drops to 95 degrees, then pops back to whatever engine coolant temp is. Could these two issues be related? I am thinking the ECT issue is a short somewhere, but short of replacing the entire wiring harness of the bike I don't know what to do. I am not an electrical guy, and I've really reached my wits end. Any ideas?

Thanks for the fast responses guys. I will get a standard VFRNess on order today. Should I go ahead and replace my rectifier? The current draw from the battery at key off is worrisome, but as long as the VFRness fixes it, we should be good.

Hey guys, guess 40k miles is time for me to get on the electrical gremlin bandwagon here with my 2002 non ABS. The issues began about a month ago, at work. Key on, hit starter, and she was dead. I tried to jump start the bike, but the second I removed the auxiliary battery, it died. Went to Interstate (In a 52hp Diesel Jetta) to get another battery, installed it, ran great. I figured the battery was sulfated and it had an internal short. Fast forward another month and it did the exact same thing. I knew about the R/R and stator issues, so I figured I would tear her down and see what was up. Lo and behold...whoa So the R/R to stator connection was bad. I assume this means the R/R is bad also. I ohmed the stator out per sec. 17 of the shop manual, and everything was within spec. All I have read on the R/R is that I cannot test it at home. I figure it's bad though since the connector was fried. Really fried. I checked voltage through the battery negative as I did in the first place to determine if there was still a current drain and there was, I calculated it to approximately 0.4 amps, more than enough to kill a battery in a night. This being the case I made my way through the wiring diagram, looking over all the fuses, and I ran across a couple of items. The first was the red connector over the green starter relay. It was melted on the terminal that takes the RED wire. I pulled the fuse (30 amp, main fuse A), which caused the current draw from the battery to stop. I also noticed the holder for main fuse A was slightly discolored, but I do not view it as a contributing issue yet. Disconnecting that fuse did nothing to my current draw. Once I isolated the current draw to that circuit, I followed the red wire to the keyswitch, which tested good per sec. 20-21 of the manual. I then followed the red/green wire to the instrument panel and unplugged that 20 pin connector, which stopped the current draw. To summarize, This bike keeps killing batteries I found a totally destroyed R/R to stator connection Stator ohmed out OK Battery still is being drained whilst R/R is NOT connected (0.43A @ 12.7V battery voltage) 30 amp Fuse A connector is melted at green connector (red wire) 30 amp Fuse B connector is beginning to discolor. Current draw ceases once Fuse A is pulled Current draw ceases if instrument panel (20 pin) plug is disconnected (no discoloration on this connector) I am pretty stumped as to why this is happening as it seems nobody mentions instrument panel, nor the fuse on the starter solenoid. Any suggestions on what I should test/replace? I figure I am in it for a new Rectifier and fuse holder, but I fear it could be more.

I did the 1" hole saw mod to the pipes this past winter, but it has taken me a while to get a video done. I made a general vid showing the whole bike, so the intro has some pics, but after that, it's pure V4 music! 99.9999% of my riding (even on the track) is below VTEC, and the sound I get coming back to me off the ground when I'm way over in a turn is absolutely fantastic! :beatdeadhorse: I even had a guy on a 4th gen at the last track day I was at say it's about the best sounding VFR he'd ever heard (Of course, he could ride circles around me!). Very throaty and nice below 6800, but it gets a healthy snarl above the transition. Watch in HD, the sound is better! Mike

How much louder is the "stage 2" mod than just the upper 2? I'm pretty happy with the upper 2, but time, and riding will tell. I actually didn't have a big problem with the cutting discs, I went through around 10. The hole saw I screwed up on though. I murdered my first one cause I didn't pull it out enough! It got really hot...