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Rapidbike Evo And Racing Related Questions !


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Well RB can claim whatever they like. I had my 5th gen running PC3 with custom dyno tune before RB install. 
 

I ran it for 500 miles on narrow band and it was nowhere near as good as the custom tune. So I bought a wideband AFR sensor & fitted that to the dash temporarily. I used it to modify the cells where it was out of whack. It got much better very quickly. Would have been better if I'd had a logger. 
 

Took it for a dyno run & it was still off a bit. Fitted an MTB & it was much better, next dyno run was much better. 
 

YMMV

 

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Hi Guys, I have just joined the forum , we are Cycle Pro - RapidBike USA distributor (One and only ) our web site is www.rapidbike.us and my goal here is not to promote a product but rather answer q

Hey guys......

Ok seriously! After riding and syncing new table to primary twice... My front tire comes off the ground (bobbles.. I can feel it) like on my old 600 Hurricane during full acceleration in 1st gear. And

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The original question was asked and answered incorrectly. Either way the original poster was concerned about spending more money on a wideband with the RB.  If you take either the PC5 or the RB racing and put them on a dyno and CUSTOM tune them while spending a ton a money  for a couple horsepower its not money well spent. If I remember correctly 800 bucks from Attack for the header dyno. Either way in Mohawk's case it is not because his bike is not stock.  Original poster has a stock bike with a header and probably a air filter and block off plate etc nothing major. Mohawk has cams velocity stack etc.  He is extrapolating every bit of power for his mods. Keep in mind dyno number will change day to day and month to month ie humidity temperature etc you cannot compare apples to oranges.  If you are going to compare anything dyno runs should be on the same day with both systems.

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Not sure who the OP is at this point in this thread.  I will almost certainly get a wideband O2 to go with my headers in a month or two though.  My VFR is stock right now, except for "mods that don't matter but people think they matter" like the snorkel and flapper.  

 

I am pretty sure I can feel the map steps (aka piecewise linear logic) right now when I am feeling around for them, while the drop/surge behavior is gone.  I can only imagine the wideband sensor tuning makes them less obvious, along with making smaller pieces in the map of course.

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I went back through the thread, and other people's screen shots of ignition advance doesn't look like mine.  And the engine braking screen is completely different now.  I don't feel a need to play with ignition (I can see it applied a map with advances up to four degrees in spots already) but would kind of like to figure out engine braking.  I enabled "something" but it doesn't seem to behave any differently than before.  Closing the throttle down shuts down the fuel pretty quick.

 

Did a 100 mile ride from San Diego to the other side of the Cleveland National Forest today to shake things out.  81 degrees at sea level here, 65-ish degrees at around 4,000 feet there on the Sunrise Highway.  Lots of cruising on I-8 at 75-85 mph and rolling through twisty mountainside stuff.

 

The stupid closed loop behavior is gone, and with the power curve smoothed out, it's a whole lot easier to hold speed on top of that.  And the mid range power and response is just fantastic.  I was able to just stay in 6th gear going uphill on I-8 with plenty of roll-on reserve to get way fast for passing.  Before, at sea level, would usually tend to drop to 5th or 4th.  On the mountain side, I stayed in third or fourth for reeeaaaally long stretches, using the whole power band just because I could.  Definitely did not have to think much about gears, or worry about getting stuck in the wrong end of the rev range somewhere in a corner, or between corners.  

 

This is after ~200 total miles or so.  As I do more miles I'm watching it continue to self-tune.  If I did nothing else, I'd be pretty happy with how the bike is.

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38 minutes ago, ShipFixer said:

 

The stupid closed loop behavior is gone, and with the power curve smoothed out, it's a whole lot easier to hold speed on top of that.  And the mid range power and response is just fantastic.  I was able to just stay in 6th gear going uphill on I-8 with plenty of roll-on reserve to get way fast for passing.  Before, at sea level, would usually tend to drop to 5th or 4th.  On the mountain side, I stayed in third or fourth for reeeaaaally long stretches, using the whole power band just because I could.  Definitely did not have to think much about gears, or worry about getting stuck in the wrong end of the rev range somewhere in a corner, or between corners.  

 

 

And isn't that the beauty of having a perfectly tuned V-4 . . . a delicious, meaty power band that's wide from a motor that's smooth - and you don't have to row through gears constantly.  I'll never understand why more riders don't get it.  And on top of all that, a sound like no other.  Just one awesome package!  :fing02:

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12 hours ago, Cogswell said:

 

And isn't that the beauty of having a perfectly tuned V-4 . . . a delicious, meaty power band that's wide from a motor that's smooth - and you don't have to row through gears constantly.  I'll never understand why more riders don't get it.  And on top of all that, a sound like no other.  Just one awesome package!  :fing02:

I didn't when I bought it, for sure.  But pretty glad I have it.  

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Does anyone know if it's possible to transpose from a Power Commander map and in to a Rapid Bike one?  Maybe I can explain a bit better . . .

 

Let's say for example, one has a developed PC III or PC V map that's been custom designed (which I do).   There are obviously various trims at each RPM / throttle position cell in the PC's table.  Is it possible to transpose (such as in music) those trims over to a Rapid Bike table in order to get a baseline map that's "pretty close" to start with so that the RB can then fine tune using the MTB and a wideband O2 sensor? 


Anyone done this or know how?  Are there any tutorials either witten or maybe youtube videos on that topic? 

 

 

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Not having seen Dynojet's software interface, it seems like this would be easy to do?  Like just make your own map in lieu of the one RB ships with.  But...the self tuning is going to make it OBE real quick I think.  Like  mine can go +/-8 out of the box, and a lot of my self tune adjustment values are already at the max values.

 

I think the ignition advance adds some complexity that doesn't fit with the PC map crossover either.

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Also...pretty sure someone in this thread did it, didn't like it, and went back to the auto tune map?

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16 hours ago, Cogswell said:

Does anyone know if it's possible to transpose from a Power Commander map and in to a Rapid Bike one?  Maybe I can explain a bit better . . .

 

Let's say for example, one has a developed PC III or PC V map that's been custom designed (which I do).   There are obviously various trims at each RPM / throttle position cell in the PC's table.  Is it possible to transpose (such as in music) those trims over to a Rapid Bike table in order to get a baseline map that's "pretty close" to start with so that the RB can then fine tune using the MTB and a wideband O2 sensor? 


Anyone done this or know how?  Are there any tutorials either witten or maybe youtube videos on that topic? 

 

 

Yes, they both operate on a % duty cycle change value. So +X value in one is similar to the other. 

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1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

Yes, they both operate on a % duty cycle change value. So +X value in one is similar to the other. 

 

That's really helpful, thanks!

 

BTW - following Mr. ShipFixer's info on finding the software link on RB USA's contact page (how stupid of me not to have looked there!  LOL) , it downloaded and installed successfully - no "Microsoft Framework" or similar error messages.

 

Thanks to all! 

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On 4/27/2021 at 12:19 AM, ShipFixer said:

Again...the manual could be better.  But my bike is automatically tuning itself with the stock O2 sensors as far as I can see, and in line with previous posters' examples:

 

0786610A-3732-491A-B841-A986FB798401.jpe

 

I've only jetted up and down the highway a few times and gone on a few errands.  So very little time spent above 7,000 RPM or with lots of throttle for the RB to observe.  The numbers match my feeling as to what it's adjusting to, where the bike is happier sitting between 4K and 6K RPM without downshifting as much.  From what I can tell, the "RBo2 Active" box must be checked for it to use the O2 signal.  Mine was checked already.

 

What I did just enable tonight...I think...is ignition and fuel advance (section 3.6.3 in the manual).  Will see if that makes a difference tomorrow.

 

For those who might be interested, here's where I ended up putting this thing:

 

CF10108D-5BBF-42D7-A608-42E26C48117C.jpe

 

That's the RB Racing unit on the left side of the photo (right side of the bike), with the USB and other cable plugs inside the plastic bag by the rear brake reservoir.  The red rag on the other side is around my shock reservoir (I have some neoprene foam sheets coming to make all of this look a lot nicer).

 

The tools are in there...but hidden under the center spine, running between both pockets.  I can pull out the RB unit or the shock reservoir very easily and get to them.

 

The harness has just enough length to meet the stock O2 sensors on the left side of the bike, running right by the rear cylinder heads and down inside the frame near the coolant reservoir.  The other connectors have excess length that's loosely running under the fuel tank on the right side, and coiled a bit behind the plastic body panel in front of the rear brake reservoir.  In other words...this thing is clearly meant to go on the left side of the bike, but my WP shock was there first!

 

 

I hope you don't mind one more question - where did you find the manual referenced above?  Maybe hidden in an unlikely place on their website?  LOL  Many thanks!

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The software download comes with two manuals.  The first one is titled "RB Master Free 1-2-3 guide ENG" and doesn't tell you much.  The next PDF is the full manual, and it's "Software RB Master Free - ENG."  That's the one you want.

 

There are some differences between the latest software and what's in the manual, and the screen shots from others in this thread going back six years look really different.  It's enough to get you started with the software I guess, but there are things like engine braking that aren't well explained enough for me to mess with it.

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