CornPoweredV4

Maybe a post can be made on FB or a banner put up somewhere to gather some more interest?

Just a follow up on this but I finally sync'd my starter valves to be balanced with cyl #4 and cleaned/rejuvenated my K&N air filter this past weekend. Bike is running much smoother now at low RPMs and throttle openings. VTEC transition also feels smoother, but that may be placebo. Who knows.

Curious to hear if anyone else has placed their deposit since the last update.

Hey guys, the Delkevic 42mm gaskets seem to be back in stock on their website. I just ordered 4 of them now.

Does anyone have a concrete list of what parts are needed to install these headers aside from what comes in the kit itself? Would be nice to have everything ordered ahead of time. I saw someone a few pages back mention something about getting spare exhaust studs + bolts, stuff like that. Didn't see a defined list of parts anywhere, but maybe I just missed it.

Hi @sfdownhill, I sent $300 to vfrheaders@gmail.com just this morning. Let me know if there are any issues. Thank you!

Agreed. Ordered a Carbtune Pro 4 to inspect the starter valves, didn't want to deal with making a messy diy liquid manometer. Should get here next week or so. From what I read on 6th gens, they should be all balanced due to slight changes in exhaust routing from the 5th gens. Confirmed per the Japanese manual.

@vfrcapn It looks like for the Evo, it requires the YouTune module to use. For the Racing, you can use the feature without needing a YouTune, you just modify it with your Rapid Bike software and go. This is based off the manual provided to me by Yaman and his team a few days ago. -10% still feels pretty good after riding around with it for a while, I may actually decrease it even further to -12% or so and see how that feels. It really did help improve the feel when cleanly going from throttle on to throttle off, however very small yet steady throttle openings are still quite snatchy and unpredictable. I can be holding it barely open and the bike will still jerk back and forth at times. I don't think it's my throttle or clutch technique because I can ride my SV smooth as butter without these kinds of issues. Starting to think that the starter/idle air valves are the culprit of this unpredictable small throttle opening behavior like @ShipFixer is saying. Luckily that one seems like a lot cheaper of a fix, and seems to be only moderately tedious. Time to do some research I guess.

Yeah, it's all very highly subjective. Ok so engine braking was already enabled and at 0% by default. I reduced it to -5% and went for a quick ride; the engine braking was decreased ever so slightly, but not by too much. I felt it could be decreased even more so I set it to -10% and went on another quick ride. This time it felt even better and that throttle-on throttle-off jerk was noticeably smoothed out, plus it felt better on my core/shoulders/back not having to resist the engine braking so much. To me, I think it really helped bring out the smooth nature of the V4 even more. However I may increase it by 1 or 2% because -10% might have taken away just a tad too much of my favored engine braking ability. These were very short in-town rides I went on to test it, so not a whole lot of variety of riding yet. Will have to see how it performs in the long-run. It also feels like it smoothed out the nature of modulating the clutch at lower speeds I will check them one day. I've read a lot of random tidbits and guides about starter valve issues, synching, etc. So far I've just basically buried my head in the sand about it and pretended like I didn't need to address them on mine, haha. The reality is I will likely check them/adjust them the next time I have the bike all opened up in the garage, but I'm not sure when that will be. Need to study up on them again. What do you have your engine braking setting set at? I know you have the My Tuning Bike/wideband, but I'm just curious.

So uh, I guess some kind of order system needs to be set up..?

Thank you for the very useful info, that clears up several things. Regarding #3... I only ever notice the issue when I'm stuck going slow behind someone and I'm having to baaaarely keep the throttle cracked open. I end up oscillating from fully shut to barely cracked open with normal small movements of my hand, like from bumpy roads, and it can produce kind of a jerking back and forth motion, but it's really only an issue in this scenario. I think my problem is just that the engine braking is a little more than I'd like... That sudden transition from no fueling at throttle-off to normal fueling when the throttle is slightly opened. My SV650 had a similar issue which I was able to eliminate through a TPS adjustment. What makes me think the engine braking setting might help is this snippet from the software manual: If I understand this correctly, simply enabling the engine braking feature (not sure if it's on by default or not) and leaving it at 0% will still lessen the engine braking from stock, because it is now supplying the same amount of fuel as it would at idle if you fully close the throttle at any RPM, thus reducing the engine braking and make it "jerk" less because you're not decelerating as suddenly by cutting off fuel completely. I'll hook up my laptop to the module when I get home from work and see what's going on. If it's not enabled, I will enable it and report if it improves the issue or not. The RapidBike solved the common lean surging issue where the bike computer seemed to keep flopping from lean steady cruise mode to normal acceleration/fueling. That issue is eliminated after installing the module.

Interesting. I don't think I'll end up using that for now as I don't really see a need for it on my end. I just ended up switching over to 93 octane gas and gave up the ethanol free. Been riding around for about 200 miles and everything feels more powerful and very smooth. I'm liking my VFR a lot more now! I figure I'd ask here first before I hook my laptop up to it. 1) On the default RapidBike Racing config for 6th gens, is the ignition timing advanced as far as it will safely go already? 2) Is there any firmware I need to update on the module, or does it come with the latest updates already from the get-go? 3) Though everything is in general way smoother, I'm still experiencing some herky-jerkiness when transitioning from off throttle to on throttle and vice versa. I feel like this is due to the ECU cutting off fueling when the throttle is closed and that it could be likely resolved by adjusting the Engine Braking parameter on the Rapid Bike. Am I correct in thinking that decreasing the Engine Braking parameter will decrease the jerkiness when going from no throttle to some throttle?

I do not have a map-switching feature. I assume by this you mean the YouTune controller? I just have the Rapidbike on my stock 07 VFR with stock exhaust (cept gutted mufflers) and stock O2 sensors. It did feel a lot better on the ride to work this morning, despite traffic and crappy riding conditions. Excited to try it in more open/clear conditions.

I know that that it's rated for 86-87 octane stock, I'm talking about running with the Rapidbike Racing module. From what I've read in this thread and others, you want to run a higher octane than stock with the Rapidbike on the 6th gen because of the advanced ignition timing. I've read in these threads that 91-93 is preferred when running advanced ignition timing, so I'm asking if running 90 is okay since it's very close to 91. By the way I got the Rapidbike module installed tonight, will take it for a test ride tomorrow.

Hello, I'm in the midst of installing my RBR module and I prepared beforehand by going for a long ride to drain all my 87 octane gas and refueled with a higher octane. I prefer to use ethanol free wherever possible, and the only higher octane ethanol free I know of is 90 octane offered by QT gas stations everywhere around my city. Will I be risking damage by running 90 octane on my basically stock 2007 VFR with the RBR, without any extra changes from how it comes by default? Just to be safe, I filled up about 3/4 with the 90 octane ethanol free and the rest 93 octane normal gas, but I would prefer to not have to do this every time. I know 93 is recommended and 91 has been said to be fine, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to suddenly explode into a fiery, violent fireball on my post-install test runs. 😁