V4 Rosso Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I am trying to remove the rear axle but I can't get it to budge. The sprocket carrier came off easy, next was the collar that only took a light tapping to loosen up. Third was the backplate of the cush drive, it came off using a puller but it took more effort than expected/hoped. Only thing remaining is the axle and and unfortunately the puller is not large enough to use it on the axle too. I gave the axle some smacks with a hammer but absolutely no movement whatsoever. I didn't find it in the service manual or on the parts fiche but just to make sure, there isn't some circlip keeping the axle from being removed from the bearing holder, is there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRwhisp Posted April 4, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2011 The Axel/disk assembly should just slide out the right side as long as you have removed the caliper mounting bolts and rear caliper. Doesn't the axel turn? Or it is seized 100% in the bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 The caliper is out of the way and the axle and bearings rotate fine. The bearings are still OK, there is no play in them and I want to keep it that way. I have used some heat to try and work it free but not much as don't want to ruin the bearing seals. I will replace the dust seals. It seems the inner race of the roller bearing is frozen solid on the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmatt Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 The caliper is out of the way and the axle and bearings rotate fine. The bearings are still OK, there is no play in them and I want to keep it that way. I have used some heat to try and work it free but not much as don't want to ruin the bearing seals. I will replace the dust seals. It seems the inner race of the roller bearing is frozen solid on the axle. I guess the only thing I would know to try is some solvents and heat, but it should come straight out, the circlip is only to keep the caliper bracket on the eccentric Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 4, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2011 PM Doug, he has been there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 but it should come straight out, the circlip is only to keep the caliper bracket on the eccentric Thanks, that's how I read the drawing too. A write up in an english mag made me wonder if I overlooked something. PM Doug, he has been there.... Doug is on some secret mission so i guess he can't be online much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 4, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2011 Wow this is so weird. I removed the axle from my '02 when I changed the rear brake rotor and the thing basically didn't even need to be hit with a hammer...it just popped right out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted April 5, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 5, 2011 Wow this is so weird. I removed the axle from my '02 when I changed the rear brake rotor and the thing basically didn't even need to be hit with a hammer...it just popped right out! I just had mine off last week, only the 2nd time for my '99, and it just slid off. When you do get it out clean up those splines. I applied a slight film of grease before re-assembly. But I'm sure you've already planned that... I don't know how you'd remove the circlip before the axle, I think those instructions are incorrect. I'd put the nut back on the end of the axle, backwards, grab a 3lb sledge hammer and give it some whacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Yep, it just gets stuck there. You have to get medieval on its ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Doesn't help you now, but to all in the future, apply a light coating of grease to the ENTIRE axle before installation. Will make life easier later on..... Good luck on your quest. Try a block of hardwood on the end of the axle and a BIG hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I'd put the nut back on the end of the axle, backwards, grab a 3lb sledge hammer and give it some whacks. I would do this as well - after applying penetrating oil (Pen Oil, PB Blaster, Kroil) and allowing that to sit for at least a few hours, if not overnight. Once you get the axle out, dress it well with 600 grit sandpaper(to remove all the oxidation), use a scouring pad to clean the bearing ID's. Then grease before reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmitry Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Good advice all over. My vote is for Kroil and patience, it works better when left alone for few days, Other penetrating oils will dry up while Kroil will keep working. Hammer and block of wood would be my choice. once you take it apart pack some high speed synthetic grease in the roller bearing, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Thanks for all the input guys I've sprayed a lot of Griffon IMAL (similar to Kroil) on the axle over the last two days but it still wont budge. I "got medieval on it's ass" (LOL @Phantom, love that scene ) by giving it a few whacks with a 2lbs hammer (haven't got any bigger ones but my technique is quite OK ) but it doesn't move a hair. There is some goey stuff on the backplate, maybe that's what is keeping it from sliding out of the bearings. In that case slamming it with a hammer won't help much and I have to get me another puller or modify the one I have. In the mean time I wrapped some tie downs around the SSSA and used a jack to put some pressure on the axle but it is still a no go. I didn't want to put too much tension on the straps afraid it would snap and have the latches hitting me in the face Is that a high C? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmatt Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Yeah, axle slides out first on the right side, then circlip and caliper bracket (also right), then the eccentric can slide out the left side. One thing that might help is to brace the swingarm against something, when you're 'tapping' the end of the axle with your hammer I bet you're getting a lot of movement in the rest of the bike, you need that force to go directly to the axle/bearing surface. If you can put a rod/2x4/beam from the right side of the swingarm to a wall or something then you can put a lot more force to the axle with the same 'tap' at the end. And keep the penetrating oil on it, and maybe just work on it with many smaller taps to try to vibrate the axle free. Eventually it has to give... Another thought, examine the surface of the axle that sticks out on the left carefully, if it has a build up of corrosion then it would keep the axle from going anywhere because you are then trying to shear off the corrosion which is pretty hard to do. Sand/polish the surface lightly to get any of this off and it might help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 I hope you have made some progress It seem to be really tight, hopfully nothing will be broken in the brogress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 I hope you have made some progress It seem to be really tight, hopfully nothing will be broken in the brogress I like that Keny! "Brogress" - measure of progress made with the assistance of your bro's on VFRD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 9, 2011 What's the problem? You want the the rear axle out? POP, here you go.................................... NAH......... that is unfair, it is Doug's no longer needed rear axle...... let me know if you need it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 What's the problem? You want the the rear axle out? POP, here you go.................................... Grrrrrr. Good to kwow there is a spare nearby. Haven't had time to work on the bike this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted April 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2011 I am trying to remove the rear axle but I can't get it to budge. The sprocket carrier came off easy, next was the collar that only took a light tapping to loosen up. Third was the backplate of the cush drive, it came off using a puller but it took more effort than expected/hoped. Stop right there... you're going to bust the fragile casting... yesterday I removed Bob's VFR axle that was frozen with corrosion just like yours... we used a large sledge hammer with a block of aluminum in between the axle and the hammer and drove the axle out... it helps if you have someone against the side of the bike to keep it from spinning with the hammer blows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Stop right there... you're going to bust the fragile casting... No, the driven sprocket hub came off well, it is only the axle that is still stuck to the bearing races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted April 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2011 Stop right there... you're going to bust the fragile casting... No, the driven sprocket hub came off well, it is only the axle that is still stuck to the bearing races. Good... have you applied some heat about 100ºF to the hub to expand the bearing and make some clearance between the stuck surface??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Good... have you applied some heat about 100ºF to the hub to expand the bearing and make some clearance between the stuck surface??? Yeah, and a lot more than 100F, closer to 100C trying to break the corrosion between the axle and races (if there is any). Still wouldn 't budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2011 Good... have you applied some heat about 100ºF to the hub to expand the bearing and make some clearance between the stuck surface??? Yeah, and a lot more than 100F, closer to 100C trying to break the corrosion between the axle and races (if there is any). Still wouldn 't budge. At this point, I'd resign myself mentally to the price of a replacement axle. Once prepared as such, I'd go get that block of aluminium and the biggest sledgehammer you can find and go nuts. I think if you don't accept the potential replacement price, you'll be constantly holding back when you swing that hammer. If all goes well, you'll swing it hard enough *and* save the axle. Shock loading sounds like the only thing that's going to release this puppy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 So how is it going, axle still stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 27, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2011 Yes, how are things going? Plan is to get TheCook over at some point, so we need you to find them narrow windy roads and a free bike wash.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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