The Phantom

Just to go over the technique to get it onto the centrestand - once the stand hits the ground you need to simultaneously push down on the centrestand tang and pull up on the little grab handle at the pillion peg. About equal pressure on both, and it comes up and back nicely.

Nicely put together - a true 'form follows function' build.

That's a great helmet cabinet. I don't know Mick personally but I do see him at events I attend from time to time, if I can talk to him I'll show him your pic. Last time I saw him was when he flew his helicopter into a MX round I was at, he and Stoner jumped out and just hung at the fence watching for a couple of hours then took off again 😄

Not sure if this has been posted on VFRD but long time VFR specialty product company Tyga Performance is now selling full RC30 conversion kits to suit 4th Gen VFR750. All bodywork, subframes, infill panels, exhaust system... the works. Even a replacement fuel tank. They look incredible and are literally plug and play. Bodywork Set 1, GRP, Painted RC30, RC36-2 RC30 Style, Street | TYGA-Performance The interest in this kit on the Facebook "RC/RVF Replica Group" is immense and a lot of bikes are going to be converted, so now's the time to grab a 4th Gen. Especially a cosmetically challenged one.

There are usually a few RC30 people on this forum so you might get lucky if they see this,

Great to see this build documented in one place 👌

Some of the OzVFR guys were running a communal 4th Gen trackbike a few years ago, and decided to experiment with ram air - using the ducts above each front indicator. Around Eastern Creek (now Sydney Motorsport Park) the bike simply would not rev past 6-7k, so they ripped it all out and went back to keeping the litre bikes honest. If you look at Kawasaki ram air you'll see that they include pitot tubes to tune the intake, so that the carb runs at the same air pressure as the airbox, I imagine that without adding something like that you will not do much better than the OzVFR guys.

Data point, a 2002 R6 tail unit complete - aluminium subframe, undertray, bodywork, wiring, both seats - weighs less than just the 4th Gen bare metal subframe (which would be fairly comparable to the 5th Gen subframe).

Not something I've heard of in almost 25 years around VFRs. We know the starter solenoid connector sometimes gets fried, how did yours look?

CBR600F4i front - tail looks a bit Aprilia RSV4 [

Yoshi in Australia too. Usually said in reverent tones when in the presence of a Suzuki TL1000R with full Yoshi system.

Thanks Kirby. Huge loss to the Aussie crew. Roy always managed to make you stop and think about your decisions with his thoughts and advice. A hard-arsed bastard with a true heart of gold. Ride on mate ❤️

Enjoyed the vid. I nearly hit a wombat on the Tallowa Dam road once, maybe 22 years ago. Was able to come to a stop in time, thankfully - then beeping the horn didn't move him but giving the VFR a big rev did! I rode through Kangaroo Valley solo at 4am a couple of years ago on my way to the south coast from Buxton, it was a magic ride.

The linkage is an anti-squat torque arm (that's an RC30 swingarm). Supposed to reduce squat under power, which should make for more neutral corner exit, The RC45 didn't get it, and very few other bikes did, suggesting that suspension engineers found other ways to dial squat out of suspension systems.

VFRs and beer, two of my favourite topics. This thread delivers 👌 I will need some of that wiring info for one of my own projects so thanks for sharing, Danno.

Interesting topic, thanks for sharing. You're doing a great job for not a computer guy. I take it the goal is to reduce weight but still keep the bike looking as close to stock as possible? Look into having a lexan copy of the headlight glass made up... you'd be astonished at just how heavy that headlight assembly is. The rear subframe is also seriously lardy, I replaced the entire rear bodywork/seat unit on a 4th Gen with one from a 2002 Yamaha R6. The entire Yamaha tail (subframe, seat, undertray etc.) weighs less than just the bare VFR subframe. An aluminium copy would take a lot of work, though. You could also replace some of the metal pipes in the cooling system with plastic. I've got an electric waterpump for that 4th Gen but it requires a digital controller to get the best efficiency, so there wasn't much of a weight saving there - but the engine now no longer will have to drive the stock pump, so reduced parasitic power loss there, the hole in the block where the stock pump drive went is blocked by a welch plug I happened to have lying around from a Ford Windsor V8 kit.

I put a 520 16/45 combo on one of my 4th Gens and highly recommend it for the fun factor.

Build what you want mate, there's heaps of stock low mileage VFRs still out there for the purists (one even belongs to me!)

I thought ST1100 - which fits 3/4 Gen forks, I have one somewhere. But not quite the same.

A silicon-based furniture polish like Mr Sheen is good for cleaning the whole helmet including visor, and works a bit like RainX in wet riding.

This is a cool project 👍 Can I make a suggestion - plumb your clutch cover breather up and into the airbox, you're going to end up with an oily mess where it is.

Jon Johanson's RV4

Looks to me like you have an SP2 lower bearing

Hi Manny, welcome to VFRD. It's possible that the slip-on part will work! Honda went from slip on for 3rd, to flange/gasket for 4th, and back to slip-on for 5th. Send an email to Staintune, Adam is quite happy to answer questions like this.