kaldek

Is that my post? I reckon I said something very similar back in the day. I think even still have the flywheel removal bolt/tool in my toolbox.

Cheers mate. Been a long time indeed. I shamefully don't ride much at all anymore as I work from home since 2015 and I've also stupidly gotten back into cars as well.

Hi! Bit of a lurker these days but had myself a 2002 model that I put 200,000km on and burned up a stator or two. The stator colour is not indicative of it being burned out. Due to the oil levels in the crankcase, half of the stator is permanently cooled by the oil and the other half is not. Ergo it gets a burned appearance to it. It's likely that's where the failures occur due to the higher heat but it doesn't immediately mean anything. The stator fails in basically one of three ways: Short to frame Short between phases Short within a phase The way that the stator works with regards to the above is that there are 18 separate poles which make up the three phases (6 for each phase). Each pole has heaps of insulated wire wrapped tightly around the frame of the stator in a coil. This wire is thin copper wire with integrated insulation, similar to speaker coil wire. The wire needs to be a tightly wound coil with no shorts in it in order for the magnetic fields to work. Around the outside of the wire is an epoxy paint coating to protect the coils of wire. This epoxy coating is what is becoming discoloured. Anyway the shielding around the coils of wire can break down. This either shorts the coil to itself, to the frame of the stator (and therefore the frame of the bike) or between coils. Either way, what happens is that the stator can no longer generate enough energy. The regulator/rectifier is sent three separate alternating current feeds from the Stator. It takes each one and rectifies them to DC using a bunch of diodes, and afterwards regulates the voltage down to 14.4 volts or so (P.S. it's the regulation from high DC voltages down to 14 volts that heats up the regulator and causes it to burn out). If one of the phases is producing a low voltage, the total final output of the R/R into the bike's charging system drops. You can have a weak phase (short within a coil to itself) where the voltage is reduced or perhaps an entire phase going dead. None of this discusses failure of the R/R itself, and there is plenty of material (some it mine from pre-2011) here on the forum about different models of regulator/rectifiers can be installed to manage this problem and reduce or remove the risk of R/R failure.

Kickstarter price was $999 for a first run unit.

http://www.tested.com/tech/3d-printing/458406-meet-othermill-desktop-cnc-milling-machine/ Interesting stuff - not for huge parts but for things like block off plates it would be great.

Nice work fellas. So did the info we shared via PM help with picking a direction or was I just coming across as the crazy Aussie?

Good to know my videos are still out there helping folks even though I've moved onto BMWs... Anyway, the engine braking was one of my FAVOURITE things about my VFR. I used to love slamming it down a gear from high revs and just letting the bike slow me down while roaring its head off. *Especially* in traffic! The sound of a VFR with aftermarket pipes on the overrun is something I will miss forever. Even after ten years, my 2002 VFR800 still turned heads with its fat baby-eight exhaust note. If only the fuel injection wasn't so wonky... Also worth pointing out that I believe Ducati controls engine braking in the new Panigale motor by keeping the valves open on the overrun (I think it was exhaust valves). Doesn't help with the VFR of course, but people have solutions to the problem out there.

No wax huh? Well whaddya know. They must just call it that for historical purposes.

Man when was the last time anyone saw a VFR with a chewed up crankshaft, eh? A rare thing indeed, and it looks like Honda really did have some machining issues with some early bikes. Glad I didn't buy one of the leftover 2010 VFR1200s - if the 2012 model was here I could have easily bought one of those over the K1300R at the time.

Yep that will work fine.