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Stator Tests


chris2992
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1 hour ago, MsRN98 said:

So I noticed that running heated clothing puts too large a load on my battery; I'v had the tach, speedometer and headlight all falter when my clothing is at maximum draw (jacket and glove liners). I ordered the wiring harness and mounting plate from roadstercycle, as well as the appropriate used R/R from a wrecked 2016 FZ-09. Two days ago I ran some of the tests from the Honda Service manual; charged battery was 13.3V several hours after being removed from the Battery Tender; there was no continuity between the stator legs and ground; resistance between each pair of stator legs was 1.3 Ohms at 40ºF (4.4ºC)--corrected using the alpha for pure copper, that comes to about 1.4 Ohms at 20ºC. There's virtually no leakage at the battery, which is encouraging. Yesterday, battery voltage was 12.8V; after warming up the engine, I measured 12.5V @ 5000rpm at the terminals. I've not yet checked battery load, but the elevated resistance for all three legs of the stator and the poor charging at 5000rpm (AND the inability to run any accessories) make me think I'll replace the stator along with the R/R--and possibly the battery as well. Plus install a voltmeter at the same time...

 

 

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Also check your earth block, this could also play havoc with your charging system and should be upgraded ASAP..

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Also check your earth block, this could also play havoc with your charging system and should be upgraded ASAP..

Will do; thanks for the advice. I looked at online vendors for a new Honda stator; it appears that the OE 5th-generation stator has been discontinued. What is the recommended replacement?

 

 

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3 minutes ago, MsRN98 said:


I looked at online vendors; it appears that the OE 5th-generation stator has been discontinued


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I find this hard to believe, try OS, from US or OZ.

Actually, forget here, you will pay through your nose.

Try Partzilla, that's were I got mine.

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Ordered--thanks for the link! I should see it Tuesday or Wednesday. In the interim, I just have to figure out how to limp the bike through, if possible; I'm away from home at the moment.

 

You mentioned upgrading the earth link; is there a better way than soldering all the leads together and connecting them to a new earth point? Not that I'm averse to the latter, just curious.

 

 

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Soldering is the best connection you can do. 

It is also the only type of connection I would do to the three stator to RR wires. 

In fact, I got rid of all connectors in the charging system. 

 

 

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Soldering is the best connection you can do. 
It is also the only type of connection I would do to the three stator to RR wires. 
In fact, I got rid of all connectors in the charging system. 
 
 

That works for me. I already have the new MOSFET R/R and direct wiring loom to connect it to the battery and the stator. The R/R will be attached to an aluminum adaptor plate, then to the original R/R mounting points. I'm tempted to find some sort of thermally-conductive grease/cream to improve contact between the R/R and the mounting plate, in order to optimize heat sinking. As for the stator, I've seen it said that the OE wiring from stator to R/R is insufficient; is this the case, and should I re-wire that connection with larger-gauge wire than Honda supplies with the OE stator?

I'm already planning to solder the stator wires to those for my new stator-R/R quick disconnect. Are you saying you bypassed the quick disconnect and soldered the stator wires directly into the R/R?
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No, you will have to use the RR plug as I've done to my ex R1 FH012.

The biggest problem is the Honda connectors, and undersized wiring from RR to main fuse and battery.

You should get rid of all weak points, the earth block, the main fuse, the charging circuit wiring.

Stator wiring is ok, just go directly to the RR and use the proper crimping tool made for the type of connectors you have bought, failed crimps are bad news and a major weak point. Crimp and solder is even better, just don't over heat it.

RR to battery should be upgraded and head directly there through new heavy duty main fuse, not through the harness.

Also make sure any cable you use is of good quality and thin multi strand made for 12v.

Heat transfer paste will do nothing much, as the new RR doesn't get that hot.

 

 

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No, you will have to use the RR plug as I've done to my ex R1 FH012.
The biggest problem is the Honda connectors, and undersized wiring from RR to main fuse and battery.
You should get rid of all weak points, the earth block, the main fuse, the charging circuit wiring.
Stator wiring is ok, just go directly to the RR and use the proper crimping tool made for the type of connectors you have bought, failed crimps are bad news and a major weak point. Crimp and solder is even better, just don't over heat it.
RR to battery should be upgraded and head directly there through new heavy duty main fuse, not through the harness.
Also make sure any cable you use is of good quality and thin multi strand made for 12v.
Heat transfer paste will do nothing much, as the new RR doesn't get that hot.
 
 

Happily, I bought the RR plug with stator wiring already attached courtesy of Jack at Roadstercycle.com. I'll solder that wiring to the wiring from the new stator. As for the RR-battery connection, that, too is courtesy of Mr. Fleming; it's 10-ga wire with a 30A inline circuit breaker, routed directly to the battery. Which leaves the earth block and the main fuse, if I understand you correctly.
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The circuit breaker bypasses the main fuse, so that is sorted.

You will need to solder the wires from the stator to the wires coming from the RR.

I also ran a new bigger gauge wire from the soldered earth bolock to the battery.

That should see you with many years of trouble free riding.

Adding a voltmeter will give you peace of mind.

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A voltmeter is definitely on my shortlist, and the stator-RR wires will definitely be soldered. Thanks for the suggestion about the large-gauge wire from the negative battery terminal to the soldered earth block; I can make that happen, too. As for the old stator, I'll send it for a re-wind and keep it in reserve for the next time this happens--hopefully not for a long, long time. Then it's on to cleaning all the terminals with De-Oxit, finding and installing a distribution block for heated gear, radar detector or whatever else strikes my fancy, and riding as much as possible!


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  • 11 months later...

I have spent some time reading articles about stators and that the best route to follow is to go with a OEM. I have a 4th gen and the OEM stator is no longer available. Does anyone know if there is a Honda stator from another model that will fit a 4th gen? I am not worried about the connector as that would be eliminated in favor of a direct connection.

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The 3rd or 5th gen units might fit, you’d need to do a size comparison. But the simplest & usually cheapest solution is just to get the current one rewound !

 

You can either do that yourself or get it don professionally.

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Got mine from Joshua (Tightwad here on VFRD) from www.wiremybike.com

 

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Thanks for the responses. The current one is working fine so I am looking at getting one as a backup in case something goes horribly wrong while I am on the road. With a backup and a backup R/R, although inconvenient I am not left stranded somewhere to wait for parts.

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  • 2 years later...
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Not Rick's specifically.  I sent my G6 stator to Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL.  Fine work - cost me $105 plus shipping.  Very happy with it.  The good thing about them is they will give you any length lead you want or any connector if you want to change R/R or its location. 

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20 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

Not Rick's specifically.  I sent my G6 stator to Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL.  Fine work - cost me $105 plus shipping.  Very happy with it.  The good thing about them is they will give you any length lead you want or any connector if you want to change R/R or its location. 

 

Thanks Cogs! I will call them tomorrow! Cheers, JW

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If you get the owner on the phone - can't recall his name now, Gary? - he has multiple sclerosis.  It makes him sound like he's drunk,  but he's not.  Good guy.  He has others working there.  They do good work. 

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14 hours ago, Cogswell said:

If you get the owner on the phone - can't recall his name now, Gary? - he has multiple sclerosis.  It makes him sound like he's drunk,  but he's not.  Good guy.  He has others working there.  They do good work. 

 

Thx for the info, i will post updates as it goes........................ talked to Vicki at the shop this am.. going to get it ready to ship off to Alabama!

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1 minute ago, jimbob said:

 

Thx for the info, i will post updates as it goes........................ talked to Vicki at the shop this am.. going to get it ready to ship off to Alabama!

 

Awesome.  When you caught up with me and we rode over Lolo pass, I was then running their stator work.  No reason it should not work out as well for you.  :fing02:

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  • 4 weeks later...
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On 1/20/2021 at 10:00 AM, Cogswell said:

 

Awesome.  When you caught up with me and we rode over Lolo pass, I was then running their stator work.  No reason it should not work out as well for you.  :fing02:

Got the Stator back from Custom Rewind today...looks good, cost $125 with shipping,  hope to reassemble asap!

20210216_104541.jpg

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Stator Update :  the rewound unit is back in its place..  fired up and got 14.5V at the battery terminals at a fast idle..  looks like a success! The whole process was not too tough, just takes some patience.  Trailering to AZ next week... so lotsa test rides coming up soon ! 😃

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I sent a stator to Custom Rewind and had them upgrade the windings as well as put a Yamaha connector on the output leads.  Got it back and installed it in a buddy's 98 with about 20k miles on it.  We previously installed an R1 R/R but this was on our list to complete.  Even with the R1 R/R, his volts never rose above 13.6v.  It appears we completed the upgrade in time.....  Custom Rewind continues to do excellent work, 14.4v at idle.

 

 

IMG_9321.JPG

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