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MsRN98

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About MsRN98

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fitchburg
  • In My Garage:
    ‘00 VFR 800FI

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  1. Earlier this autumn I installed a ‘new’ set of 5th-Gen forks that Jamie Daugherty built up for me with his cartridge kit and SKF seals; the results were quite to my liking. Jamie recently came out with his own custom shock for our bikes; of course I had to take the plunge! I arrived home today to find this lovely piece of bling waiting for me... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Last year I had an ‘uninspiring’ 90-minute portion of my 3-hour commute where cell and radio signals were poor at best. So I turned to timing mile markers versus the speedometer; I found that my speedometer consistently overestimates by 6.6% with no drivetrain modifications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. MsRN98

    Stator Tests

    A voltmeter is definitely on my shortlist, and the stator-RR wires will definitely be soldered. Thanks for the suggestion about the large-gauge wire from the negative battery terminal to the soldered earth block; I can make that happen, too. As for the old stator, I'll send it for a re-wind and keep it in reserve for the next time this happens--hopefully not for a long, long time. Then it's on to cleaning all the terminals with De-Oxit, finding and installing a distribution block for heated gear, radar detector or whatever else strikes my fancy, and riding as much as possible! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. MsRN98

    Stator Tests

    Happily, I bought the RR plug with stator wiring already attached courtesy of Jack at Roadstercycle.com. I'll solder that wiring to the wiring from the new stator. As for the RR-battery connection, that, too is courtesy of Mr. Fleming; it's 10-ga wire with a 30A inline circuit breaker, routed directly to the battery. Which leaves the earth block and the main fuse, if I understand you correctly.
  5. MsRN98

    Stator Tests

    That works for me. I already have the new MOSFET R/R and direct wiring loom to connect it to the battery and the stator. The R/R will be attached to an aluminum adaptor plate, then to the original R/R mounting points. I'm tempted to find some sort of thermally-conductive grease/cream to improve contact between the R/R and the mounting plate, in order to optimize heat sinking. As for the stator, I've seen it said that the OE wiring from stator to R/R is insufficient; is this the case, and should I re-wire that connection with larger-gauge wire than Honda supplies with the OE stator? I'm already planning to solder the stator wires to those for my new stator-R/R quick disconnect. Are you saying you bypassed the quick disconnect and soldered the stator wires directly into the R/R?
  6. MsRN98

    Stator Tests

    Ordered--thanks for the link! I should see it Tuesday or Wednesday. In the interim, I just have to figure out how to limp the bike through, if possible; I'm away from home at the moment. You mentioned upgrading the earth link; is there a better way than soldering all the leads together and connecting them to a new earth point? Not that I'm averse to the latter, just curious. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. MsRN98

    Stator Tests

    Will do; thanks for the advice. I looked at online vendors for a new Honda stator; it appears that the OE 5th-generation stator has been discontinued. What is the recommended replacement? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. MsRN98

    Stator Tests

    So I noticed that running heated clothing puts too large a load on my battery; I'v had the tach, speedometer and headlight all falter when my clothing is at maximum draw (jacket and glove liners). I ordered the wiring harness and mounting plate from roadstercycle, as well as the appropriate used R/R from a wrecked 2016 FZ-09. Two days ago I ran some of the tests from the Honda Service manual; charged battery was 13.3V several hours after being removed from the Battery Tender; there was no continuity between the stator legs and ground; resistance between each pair of stator legs was 1.3 Ohms at 40ºF (4.4ºC)--corrected using the alpha for pure copper, that comes to about 1.4 Ohms at 20ºC. There's virtually no leakage at the battery, which is encouraging. Yesterday, battery voltage was 12.8V; after warming up the engine, I measured 12.5V @ 5000rpm at the terminals. I've not yet checked battery load, but the elevated resistance for all three legs of the stator and the poor charging at 5000rpm (AND the inability to run any accessories) make me think I'll replace the stator along with the R/R--and possibly the battery as well. Plus install a voltmeter at the same time... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Gorgeous photo! The castle's no slouch, either...
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