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Stator Tests


chris2992
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Well, here's my situation. I've got similar symptoms to the ones at the very beginning of this thread;

I pulled the bike out of the barn from winter storage on Sunday, put the battery in, which had been on the tender for about 8 hours. Didn't have enough juice to start the bike, so I plugged it back in to the tender and gave it a jump, at which point it started... idled for a few minutes... shut it off, then it started up again, but the battery was going on its 5th year, so I replaced it yesterday morning anyway with a brand new Interstate.

As soon as I put the new battery in, I hit the road and blasted from Vermont to (almost) Rochester, NY. Had no problems until about 20 miles outside of Rochester, then it just shut off (at about 80mph all the way in the left lane) and wouldn't start again. I let it sit for a few minutes and then was able to bump start it and ride about 1/4 mile off the thruway. Got it back to my apartment, pulled the side covers today, and found that connector on the 3 yellow wires between the stator and the R/R totally melted, 2 of the wires actually burned through.

Soo, new stator/RR/battery, no? It's got 43k miles on it, 25k of which are mine, and to my knowledge it's still got the original R/R, and presumably the original stator.

So that's where it's at right now. Should I just go ahead and get an R/R from Rick's and have them rewind my stator? The weather was BEAUTIFUL today in Rochester, I was so bummed to not be riding to class.

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Stegen

Im having a charging issue too. Odd thing is is that I have 1600 miles on the bike. is that even possible that the stator or RR could fail in such a short amount of time?

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Guest Stegen

I disconnected a bunch of connections, reseated them, charged the battery, and bam, runs great. It idles at 13.9 and goes to about 14.1 at anything above. Had the headlight turn off but once i started the bike it came back on. I let it idle for 20 mins and Voltage was constant and smooth. lose about .8 volts when the brights are on, which i beleive is normal.

What say you?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm having similar issues to what Chris was having, except my charging voltage is 12.3V. I'm replacing the reg/rec since the troubleshooting diagrams point to that. However, my stator looks JUST LIKE all the brown ones on this forum: dark brown 2/3 of the way around the circumference. And yet it checks out fine...

So my question--is there anything to be gained by checking current through each of the stator wires? I've checked voltage, and I get around 20VAC at idle, 60VAC at 5k RPM, both on a cold engine and with the coolant up to 170ºF. It seems that measuring current would only give you as much information as checking the voltage, but I wanted to throw this idea out there. Can any electrical engineers chime in?

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  • Member Contributer

FYI, I've seen discoloured stators before, but this one (found on another forum) is truly fried: gallery_362_402_1085949.jpg

VFR400R burned-out stator.jpg

Ciao,

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  • 11 months later...
Guest keatballs

I am having issues with electrical system in my 2000 vfr 800. Its a new interstate battery, so I dont think that that is the problem. My buddy said it was a regulator rectifier. Instead of replacing the r/r, he hard wired it in because the conection was fried. All the tests of the electrical system he performed seemed fine. I went for an hour ride, shut the bike off and then it wouldnt restart.

Anybody know what I should do?

This is very frustrating!!!

Keatballs.

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  • Member Contributer

Post the charging system results from the chart on the first post of this thread. That will allow for a proper diagnosis. However I'd say that your RR is smoked. Look for the R1 RR thread how to.

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  • 2 years later...
  • Member Contributer

Can anyone verify if part number 31100-MCW-315 is still the AC generator kit for a 2002 VFR? I called service Honda and they don't list that part bring for a VFR. It's non returnable and I want to make sure it's going to work before I spend the $$ on it.

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According to CMS (Netherlands), that part number has been superseded; the current part number is 31100-MCW-325. That said, I don't know what that part is. The middle section "MCW" means that whatever it is, it was originally designed for the VTEC RC46, so at least you know that much. Ron Ayers' site says the part is not in their microfiche system (but they can supply it if you want it), which is consistent with a repair/service kit. They are parts that are developed after the bike was designed, so it makes sense that they may not be in the microfiche.

Ciao,

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping this topic again. I bought my 2006 VFR in 2009, had 3180 miles on the odometer. In 2011, I had to replace the stator (diagnosed by Wheeler in North Carolina), it was totally fried, about 18000 miles ish on the odometer. I know have 36,000+ miles on the bike, and after being on the battery tender all winter, the bike is exhibiting symptoms of the stator going again. I love this bike but an important part like this should not be such a problem.

Is there a better stator out there to replace the OEM one?

I bought a KLX250sf to take some of the commuting load off the VFR, i.e. big engines don't like heat. I bike tends to run warm in traffic, even on the interstate. The temp will climb to 200-208F at 75mph in traffic, will only cool down in open air.

I have been commuting for about 3-4 weeks since the ice finally cleared the roads, daily temps haven't been more than 50-55F and morning temps 25-45F, the bike has never exceeded 180F until today, but it started hard today anyways.

Why is the stator so weak? I still have the old one for reference. Is there anything that can be done to beef up the stator? Better insulation so it won't break down and short out?

I'm frustrated and I'm supposed to be leaving for Ohio in 8 days and now I have to drop more money into a bike that I maintain religiously.

BTW, I'm sitting at work because the bike is dead, waiting for a ride to go get my trailer, grrrrrrrr.

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The majority of oem motorcycle stators, are sub 50,000 mile units, most fail in the 20 to 30,000 mile range, any models that average above 50,000 mile are considered above above average life, the your 06 falls in the range. Although you had a failure in less than ten thousand miles thats very poor for the vfr and not normal, you might check all your wiring from the stator through all the charging circuit and see if you have over heating and melting plugs. But when they replaced your stator do you guarantee it was an oem unit?

In all the Oem vfr stators, are the best that can be had, yes they will fail , they all do. Ive experienced very good stator life on the vfr, the first oem 56,000 miles and the second oem is pushing 50,000 and still going, cant really ask for much more, considereing the statistical numbers in stator life, for the majority of motorcycles is much lower.

Im still waiting for someone with aftermarket stators, to come even close to oem.

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I ran more stuff on my 2005 svs650 and never had an issue in 65000 miles. It's very bothersome that this is happening. I drove the truck and trailer to work, put the bike on a charger so I can get it home and look it over real good. I'm ordering a stator and beefed up r/r from Rick's electric today so I can get the bike back to reliable by next wed for my trip to Ohio. Hopefully I can get some money for the stators from a salvage yard or something. Rick said that they do not rebuild the stator for this model VFR800, bummer.

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Suzuki imo, is about the weakest, so Im surprised you have 65,000 on an sv stator, I know my suzuki stator went out about 21,000 miles, and that is pretty much the average for that particular model, but I did see 1 or 2 make it towards the high 20's a rarity.

I have a friend and his vstrom stator failed at 10,000 miles.

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  • 1 month later...

I ran more stuff on my 2005 svs650 and never had an issue in 65000 miles. It's very bothersome that this is happening. I drove the truck and trailer to work, put the bike on a charger so I can get it home and look it over real good. I'm ordering a stator and beefed up r/r from Rick's electric today so I can get the bike back to reliable by next wed for my trip to Ohio. Hopefully I can get some money for the stators from a salvage yard or something. Rick said that they do not rebuild the stator for this model VFR800, bummer.

So found Rick's online. Stator is $160, RR $150. Are they better than OEM? Any thoughts. Also, their information says "Ricks Design eliminates the use of the OE black wire. Anybody have any experience with Rick's products?

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  • 3 years later...

I tested my stator this morning, per instructions found elsewhere.

 

Battery checked at 12.8, after full charge off the bike and left hooked up to the bike overnight.

Ohms reading is -00.0 across all terminals.  

I have not found anything online about that reading...  Am I doing something wrong or does this mean the stator is toast?  Bike is 2000 VFR with less than 17k miles.

 

Thanks for any input.

 

Edit...  Just realized this is a 2013 thread.  :P

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  • Member Contributer
10 hours ago, Rick1 said:

I tested my stator this morning, per instructions found elsewhere.

 

Battery checked at 12.8, after full charge off the bike and left hooked up to the bike overnight.

Ohms reading is -00.0 across all terminals.  

I have not found anything online about that reading...  Am I doing something wrong or does this mean the stator is toast?  Bike is 2000 VFR with less than 17k miles.

 

Thanks for any input.

 

Edit...  Just realized this is a 2013 thread.  :P

 

You test VAC between the 3 legs. You want to see 20vac at idle and 50vac+ at 5k rpm across all 3 (A to B, B to C, A to C)

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14 hours ago, thtanner said:

 

You test VAC between the 3 legs. You want to see 20vac at idle and 50vac+ at 5k rpm across all 3 (A to B, B to C, A to C)

 

Thank you. 

I actually went to the local auto store to check my battery this morning, and they advised it's time to change...  Weird, as I've had no problem starting with it. 

Will start with that and retest everything. 

 

Appreciate your help. 

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That's what I was thinking as well...  I'll double check with my voltmeter.  Read online that I can check by starting and revving the engine, seeing where the voltage is at. 

Any opinions on that method?

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29 minutes ago, Rick1 said:

That's what I was thinking as well...  I'll double check with my voltmeter.  Read online that I can check by starting and revving the engine, seeing where the voltage is at. 

Any opinions on that method?

 

Rick,

 

You should go through the stator tests 1 by 1, as well as the rectifier tests 1 by 1. Yes, you can watch your basic DC voltage when you rev. Stock regulator will cap out at 13.9v or so. That doesn't test the individual components so you can't be sure you're 100%. One of the legs of your stator can be out and it will still probably near 14v if your regulator is working right.

 

If you don't know how to use a certain function of the multimeter, look it up on the Googles or ask us.

 

There is no substitute from individually testing the components.

 

57 minutes ago, JZH said:

At 12.8v overnight it's absolutely fine! 

 

Ciao,

 

That's float voltage, but if it can't handle load, the battery is toast. Float voltage is not a great indication of battery health. The store should have put a load test on it, which it sounds like it failed.

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14 hours ago, thtanner said:

That's float voltage, but if it can't handle load, the battery is toast. Float voltage is not a great indication of battery health. The store should have put a load test on it, which it sounds like it failed.

 

I think you mean "surface charge"?  Anyway, I misunderstood Rick's message: if he tested the battery immediately after charging it overnight and disconnecting the charger, then the voltage reading would be unreliable.  A load tester is not absolutely necessary, but you do need to remove the surface charge before testing (by leaving the battery disconnected for several hours and turning on the headlights for a couple of minutes).  Then, a reading of 12.8v would indicate a good battery!

 

Ciao,

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4 hours ago, JZH said:

 

I think you mean "surface charge"?  Anyway, I misunderstood Rick's message: if he tested the battery immediately after charging it overnight and disconnecting the charger, then the voltage reading would be unreliable.  A load tester is not absolutely necessary, but you do need to remove the surface charge before testing (by leaving the battery disconnected for several hours and turning on the headlights for a couple of minutes).  Then, a reading of 12.8v would indicate a good battery!

 

Ciao,

 

The battery could sit for a few days, still indicate 12.8, and fail a load test. That is why voltage can not be solely used to determine battery health.

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1 hour ago, thtanner said:

 

The battery could sit for a few days, still indicate 12.8, and fail a load test. That is why voltage can not be solely used to determine battery health.

 

I suppose it's possible, but I haven't seen any batteries test at 12.8v as described above and fail a load test, though.  There would have to be an internal breakage or something.

 

Ciao,

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  • 4 months later...

So I noticed that running heated clothing puts too large a load on my battery; I'v had the tach, speedometer and headlight all falter when my clothing is at maximum draw (jacket and glove liners). I ordered the wiring harness and mounting plate from roadstercycle, as well as the appropriate used R/R from a wrecked 2016 FZ-09. Two days ago I ran some of the tests from the Honda Service manual; charged battery was 13.3V several hours after being removed from the Battery Tender; there was no continuity between the stator legs and ground; resistance between each pair of stator legs was 1.3 Ohms at 40ºF (4.4ºC)--corrected using the alpha for pure copper, that comes to about 1.4 Ohms at 20ºC. There's virtually no leakage at the battery, which is encouraging. Yesterday, battery voltage was 12.8V; after warming up the engine, I measured 12.5V @ 5000rpm at the terminals. I've not yet checked battery load, but the elevated resistance for all three legs of the stator and the poor charging at 5000rpm (AND the inability to run any accessories) make me think I'll replace the stator along with the R/R--and possibly the battery as well. Plus install a voltmeter at the same time...

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

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