Rick1

I'd be interested if we got something going. :)

Congrats! Got the seat and heli already. Which are the two things I added (so far) to help with the longer rides. Does it come with modded suspension as well?

Haha... Yeah. All the discussion on R/R failing made the R1 piece and this meter the first mods I did. But I didn't want to spend too much money on my first attempt putting a meter on. So this was the result. Working well so far.

Here's mine. Cheapo eBay meter and I bent a wire hanger to secure it to one of the tank bolts.

Thanks for all the feedback! I rocked it multiple times, in gear with engine off for the past week. Finally put it in sixth gear, cold started the bike, with clutch pulled in. It took me for a ride for about 10 feet and FREED UP! Problem solved, and I'll have a clutch cover gasket in hand for when I really need to open it up. Thanks again for all the advice and help.

Thank you. I did a quick Google of vfr clutch gasket and only got aftermarket results, so wanted to make sure everyone is still using OEM. Everything feels right from the lever. I assume polishing the rod is only to make sure it doesn't get caught/stuck. Is that correct? If that's the case, I don't think it applies since I do have full motion at the lever - indicating full motion of the rod, I assume. Will get a gasket on order.

Alright. Bled the clutch again. Weird thing is that I cannot reverse bleed with a syringe nor the mityvac. I had the slave off and tried it with the piston out in various depth. No success. Finally put everything back together and was able to bleed without problem using the regular pump lever and hold method. The feel of the lever, and also observation of the piston while the slave is off, show that everything is working on that end. So, I'll be opening the clutch cover next... Any suggestions on where to get the gasket? Thanks!

They do not get caught as you pull on the helmet?

haha... Yeah, I am guilty of dropping things from time to time. Not fun at all.... Thanks for the advice. The lever felt fine and did go through the "no pressure" to "pressurized" range while I bled the system - I started with the syringe to reverse bleed, then a mity-vac to pull from the bleed nipple, and finally the regular method of pumping lever, hold, release nipple, close, pump again. Why all three methods, you ask? Cuz I was totally unable to push fluid in via the syringe, and the mity-vac also failed to pull fluid out. Yes, nipple cracked. But it finally flowed well with the pump lever method. Perhaps this is a clue that the problem is on the master-slave end. I'll check it again later today.

Pulled the rod and observed wear at both ends (pictured. Left has more wear rings than the right, which only has one ring). Cleaned it with 0000 wire wool and reinserted in reverse direction. With a dab of grease at the slave end, per manual. No joy... Also tried rocking it back and forth, with engine off, in first and second gears. Did it both cold and warm. Really would rather not have to dig into the clutch. :( Any thoughts?

@FairWeatherFellow, thanks for the reply. Just saw it. I will do it today and report back. Rick

Thank you, Terry. Appreciate the reply and additional advice.

I googled and ran through the steps as found online, but still having problem. So would like to get some help here. QUESTION - Can I simply pull the clutch lifter rod from the slave cylinder, for clean and reinstall? Thanks! Story, if you have time. I bought my 2000 VFR before the winter. Rode it home, changed oil and filter, and parked it in the garage, where I'd start it about once a month just to hear it run. Now, the bike will start fine, but clutch doesn't disengage with the lever pulled in. Lever has good pressure. From online search, I have done below, but still no joy: 1. Stuck clutch plates - bike running in neutral, shift into gear (second and first) to try to jar the clutch plates loose. I tried this multiple times, with bike warm and cold, without success. 2. Master cylinder and/or slave cylinder problems and/or air/fluid problems - I bled the system and visually inspected the slave piston. Free movement when lever is pulled, and the piston actually slowly crept outward while I had the slave cylinder off. I took this as a good sign that the piston is free. I did pull on the lifter rod and noticed it was hard to pull out at first. Once I got it moving, I tried moving it out and in by maybe a 1/4" and noticed there is a point where it would feel "sticky" in the in/out motion. This is closer to the all the way in position. I assume it's just the point where it get seated?

Didn't realize it's been this long... I installed r1 RR, soldering the wires, over the winter. Just ran through the tests and everything came within range as listed. Thanks for your help, mello.

That's what I was thinking as well... I'll double check with my voltmeter. Read online that I can check by starting and revving the engine, seeing where the voltage is at. Any opinions on that method?