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The Cure for the Wintertime Blues


JZH

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Abba stand to the rescue! I bought mine a few years ago and have used it for several VFRs (My own plus a few friends) as well as my Ducati. Great kit IMO. Good luck on your rebuild, looking forward to seeing some progress and possibly some ideas. I still plan on building the VFR Lance had planned for us to build together. He too had collected a lot of parts!

 

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On 12/26/2023 at 7:29 PM, Dutchy said:

🤪

 

 

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Oops...

 

Anyway, thanks for the words of encouragement.  At this point, the idea is simply to end up with a pile of OEM parts on the floor.  Later, who knows? 

 

I'm planning on moving all my US stuff to Europe next year (including the yellow bike), so once I have it back in my possession, why not take some measurements of those A&A supercharger parts?  :cool:

 

JZH

 

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On 12/26/2023 at 5:43 PM, Duc2V4 said:

Abba stand to the rescue! I bought mine a few years ago and have used it for several VFRs (My own plus a few friends) as well as my Ducati. Great kit IMO. Good luck on your rebuild, looking forward to seeing some progress and possibly some ideas. I still plan on building the VFR Lance had planned for us to build together. He too had collected a lot of parts!

 

 

This is the first time I've used my Abba Sky Lift in anger (having owned a regular Abba stand for many years before I got this one), and I am growing to like it.  Especially the "wheelie" and "stoppie" positioning options.

 

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That's with the rear wheel removed (and a set of Predator headers installed at the moment, rather than my new VFRD headers).

 

20231229_151102.thumb.jpg.c280bffdde79a57cf52619556fa12a15.jpg

 

Okay, a bit of a mock-up with the SP1 triples, SP2 forks, SP1 front wheel and the beautiful 954 front fender in Pearl Tahitian blue...

 

I've decided to start at the front of the bike, as that is a pretty self-contained section for which I have most if not all of the parts to hand.  I've followed various others' 5th gen fork conversions, beginning with vfrcanuck's original write-up, but I've never done this particular fork swap myself.  I began by examining the bearings and races...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

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I popped the ball races out of the headstock and measured the height of the seating surface.  It's about 7-8mm.

 

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This makes sense, because ball bearing races are quite thin:

 

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Then I put the inside circlip into the headstock and I became slightly concerned...

 

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Especially since I had been planning to use two of the inside spacers, instead of the combination of inside and outside that Rob had used.  Yes, the race would be ultimately held into the headstock by the steering stem nut, but putting a tapered roller bearing race into that seat even with one spacer did not "sit" well with me.  Certainly not two.  So, veering in the other direction, I ordered more 35mm outside circlips for the steering stem.

 

I also recalled at this point a bit of controversy about lower seals and tapered roller bearings, and how they tend to interfere with each other when installed.  The same rubber sealing rings are used for both the ball bearings and the tapered rollers, but the latter sit much closer to the rubber part and actually contact it when installed.  For regular VFR steering stems I used to buy the special KOYO lower bearings incorporating the seal (32006JRRS) to avoid the problem posed by interference with the separate seal.

 

Unfortunately, the 32907 bearing is not available with an integral seal, so the only option is to use the 3-1008 seal.  My solution, however, will be to sandwich the seal between two 35mm outside circlips, thus distancing the rollers from the seal rubber just enough to eliminate the interference.  (Hopefully!)  Alternatively, I could put both spacers between the bearing and the seal? 

 

One remaining concern is that the 3-1008 seal is 55mm OD, which is exactly the same as the ID for the bearing race--but the sealing surface (beyond the lip shown in the pics) is slightly larger than 55mm (maybe 56mm?), which may mean no matter what I do, the seal won't be doing much sealing!

 

Anyway, I hope to have the circlips today or Monday, after which I shall report how it went...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I might be changing course here slightly...

 

20231230_1633351.thumb.jpg.53e6fdd4b8f98715977a30fafdacfbe1.jpg

 

This picture shows the OEM lower triple clamp sitting on top of a 929/954 lower triple clamp.

 

It is not a gull design, but is otherwise similar to the RC51/SP1 lower triples--apart from one other thing: it uses the exact same bearings as the VFR.  When I test-fit the SP1 triples the top two clamping bolts contact the inner fairing at what would probably be the end of travel (if the steering stops were functional--see the picture below).  But is does appear that the flat 929 triples would not present any clearance issues at all.  So, why am I using SP1 triples?

 

  • With the 929 triples I could use the VFR bearings, and because the new VFR bearings are the same size as the old VFR bearings, there is no need to mess around with snap rings.
  • I would have to shave off the 929 triple's steering stops to clear the VFR headstock--same as with the SP1 triples.  But, unlike the SP1 triples, the 929 triples' top surface is flat, which would make fitting new steering stops in the correct place an absolute doddle.
  • I could use the 32006JRRS2 lower bearing with the integral seal...

 

Sounds good to me so far, but what could scupper the idea for good would be if, once the forks' height is adjusted correctly, the flat 929 lower triples do not clamp the SP2 forks in the 50mm machined area (this is only an issue with SP2 forks--SP1 forks have a continuous 50mm clamping area).  It's complicated to measure everything in advance, so I may have to suck it and see, potentially wasting some lower bearing sets, but that's probably a risk worth taking.

 

20231229_1536111.thumb.jpg.811c66b8da934d2d4345075699309fac.jpg

 

Stay tuned...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Looks like a good start.

 

BTW, if you want to leave the yellow peril behind in California and not mess with importing it, I’d be happy to take it off your hands. :fing02:

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45 minutes ago, vfrcapn said:

Looks like a good start.

 

BTW, if you want to leave the yellow peril behind in California and not mess with importing it, I’d be happy to take it off your hands. :fing02:

Auction?

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Vultures!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll have a VFR400R please :laugh:

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The 929 lower triple is less beefy than the SP1 lower triple--that's obvious.  But, this VFR isn't going to be visiting many racetracks in its pampered life so I think I can probably get away with it...

 

I ordered a new sealed lower VFR bearing for the 929 triple.  I had one in storage that I had collected years ago, but when I tested it I was unimpressed with the interference caused by the integral seal--it may have been even more than with the ill-fitting seprarate metal disc seal!  Basically, when the bearing was compressed into the outer race, even by hand, I could then not rotate the inner race at all.  The leverage from the handlebars would have overcome that, but it didn't seem like that "solution" was much better than the problem I was attempting to solve!

 

But then I noticed that there is another version of the KOYO sealed bearing available, so I ordered that one off eBay, and it does work much better in my opinion.  The JRRS-2 version (now called "JTEKT" for some reason, but still a "KOYO brand", made in Japan) has a thinner seal lip, but otherwise appears to be the same as the JRRS version.

 

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More importantly, testing reveals that there is much less friction between the seal and the bearing race, so I will be happy to install this version.

 

20240102_174444.thumb.jpg.4c0a626cf3fd3a3d463dfe85fb10708d.jpg

 

My ghetto-modified 929 lower triple clamp is nearly ready to go back together, but I have run out of time in London, so the next chapter will have to wait until I get back in a week or two or three...

 

I'm keen to press in the stem, and press on the lower bearing and test the clearances with the SP2 forks, 929 top clamp and my choice of Tommaselli adjustable or 929 Heli bars.  If everything works well, I will probably make the steering stops out of 15-20mm alloy round bar through-bolted to the top of the clamp--maybe drilled off-center to allow for fine tuning? 

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

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Obligatory Dutch biking pic from yesterday's ride:

20240302_120225.thumb.jpg.e078fcd2ac7452ec638c26b098bc9c98.jpg

 

So, "two or three weeks" turned into a few more, and then when I finally got back to London I was too busy to touch the (motor)bike.  Typical!

 

From the previous post in this thread, it appears that I will need to press the steering stem back into the triple clamp and sort out the steering stops.  Drilling the clamp would be easier without the stem in place, but I can't locate the holes correctly without it.  But, I do have my own press, so in the stem will go, and commence the measuring I will.  If I can't drill the holes with the stem in place, out again it will come!  (An hour, tops?)  :blush:

 

Beyond getting the forks in place, it occurs to me that I might need to order or make brake lines.  Grrr.  (I hate making brake lines.  Stainless steel hates me!)  I'll see what I've got in boxes that might work--I'm sure I've got something that will work, if only temporarily.  Alternatively, I may have some bulk, clear-coated -3 line, but the question is always re the stainless steel hose ends, which I generally only buy with specific projects in mind.  I'd really like to avoid having to measure and then wait for the hoses/hose ends to be delivered, but we'll see...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

 

 

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