vegaquark Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Hi there people, an image is worth a thousand words so here it goes two thousand words: This is what i came up with, now i'm thinking about taking it to a welding shop to accomodate a pair of tabs and cut this tubing to match a bigger one that is oriented properly to plug into each side rad. I feel like this could end with the cooling problems we have on traffic jams during summer (even if we all know that the hotter the viffer the better it runs) So i've come up with this and i'll try to keep you all updated about how it goes The rad came out of an scrapyard from an unknown KTM (presumably from a 50cc cross style one) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreginDenver Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 From those pictures it looks like you could increase your VFR's cooling efficiency (heat rejection ability) by cleaning/degreasing your radiators (both the coolant radiators and the oil cooler). Also, removing the little rocks and tiny bits of road debris and maybe straightening out some of the bent cooling fins will probably help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Stray Posted October 28, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted October 28, 2017 I like the look of that oil cooler. Doesn’t the VTR also have a 5 row oil cooler that fits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 On 10/23/2017 at 9:33 AM, GreginDenver said: From those pictures it looks like you could increase your VFR's cooling efficiency (heat rejection ability) by cleaning/degreasing your radiators (both the coolant radiators and the oil cooler). Also, removing the little rocks and tiny bits of road debris and maybe straightening out some of the bent cooling fins will probably help. I actually just did this on my bike about two hours ago! I bought some air conditioner coil cleaner and sprayed liberally, let it sit for about five minutes and rinsed well. They are about as clean as I can get them now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Woodie Posted November 17, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted November 17, 2017 10 hours ago, Lint said: I actually just did this on my bike about two hours ago! I bought some sure conditioner coil cleaner and sprayed liberally, let it sit for about five minutes and rinsed well. They are about as clean as I can get them now. Good stuff that coil cleaner. I work in a DC that uses heat exchangers so have a supply of the stuff. great at cleaning the filth of the vanes but don't leave it too long as it can eat into the aluminium,., Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 5 hours ago, Woodie said: Good stuff that coil cleaner. I work in a DC that uses heat exchangers so have a supply of the stuff. great at cleaning the filth of the vanes but don't leave it too long as it can eat into the aluminium,., I only let it sit for about five minutes or so. The manufacturer said it's aluminum safe when I called them. I didn't notice any changes in the color of the metal, aside from it being cleaner. I think I'll do it a second time on my oil cooler, that's sucker's pretty grungy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Since we're talking about increasing cooling, is there any type of test for the water pump, ie, a pressure test to ensure it's up to the task? Has anyone replaced their water pump and seen a big improvement? Please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreginDenver Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I see the VFR800's water pump as a long-term "consumable item". The water pump isn't expensive and the oldest 5th Gens are now 20 years old. I just went ahead and replaced the water pump for my peace of mind during the next 20 years (I hope I ride that long). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted December 7, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 7, 2017 The problem with stock water pumps is they can't be efficient at all revs, as their speed is linked to engine speed. At idle after a hard run they don't pump enough fluid & at high revs they cavitate a lot, so are actually closer to ideal than you might think. I replaced mine with an electric one, it has the advantage of operating at a better Lt/min rate ALL the time, so at speed its just right & at idle it to much, which is great for helping to dissipate the heat, plus as its rigged to a relay from the ignition, when you stop, you can leave it running with the engine off if the bike/air temp is really hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Willy Posted December 7, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 7, 2017 I'm in the middle of refreshing an '07 with 48,000, on it. Going through the cooling system. Pulled the water pump. Replaced both O-rings. The shaft bearings seemed to be in good shape - no rough spots, tight fitment. I thought I'd need to replace it but I'm going to wait a bit and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Stray Posted December 9, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 9, 2017 On 07/12/2017 at 4:13 PM, Mohawk said: . I replaced mine with an electric one, it has the advantage of operating at a better Lt/min rate ALL the time, so at speed its just right & at idle it to much, which is great for helping to dissipate the heat, plus as its rigged to a relay from the ignition, when you stop, you can leave it running with the engine off if the bike/air temp is really hot. Mohawk, your post inspired me to look into electric pumps. Didn’t even know they were an option till I read it . Are there any drawbacks/pitfalls I need to consider? Many of the sites I’ve read say it isn’t really suitable for street bikes. Have you had any issues or improvements? Is it lighter/heavier than the mechanical pump you removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted December 19, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 19, 2017 Stary, No issues since I fitted it about 5 years ago. When the Fi finishes priming with the ignition on, you can hear the soft whine of the electric motor. I've had the bike in high 30's C temps, climbing mountains in Europe & no issues. Likewise been at the top of mountains over 10,000ft with snow on the ground with no issues. I didn't weigh the parts removed & those fitted, so called it a draw, the water pump is not very heavy. I also fitted a lower temp fan switch & swapped to a VTR fan blade (blows out) so the fan comes on at 90C & off again around 75C, which stops the bike getting too hot in stop go traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted December 19, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 19, 2017 Chris, apologies if I've asked this before, but what model water pump did you use? Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Stray Posted December 20, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 20, 2017 On 19/12/2017 at 1:49 PM, Mohawk said: Stary, No issues since I fitted it about 5 years ago.. Thanks Mohawk, very useful insight. On the back of your observations I am going to look more seriously at this option. I’ve already fitted a VTR blower fan and lower temp fan switch. Why on earth did Honda think it was a good idea for the fan to wait until 104 degrees before switching on when 80 is optimal for internal combustion engines? Anyway, there are very cheap aftermarket switches that kick in at 80 on eBay - £5 a throw! Mine works fine for now. Cheap enough to replace if it fails. Stray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marooncobra Posted December 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 21, 2017 4 hours ago, Stray said: Thanks Mohawk, very useful insight. On the back of your observations I am going to look more seriously at this option. I’ve already fitted a VTR blower fan and lower temp fan switch. Why on earth did Honda think it was a good idea for the fan to wait until 104 degrees before switching on when 80 is optimal for internal combustion engines? Anyway, there are very cheap aftermarket switches that kick in at 80 on eBay - £5 a throw! Mine works fine for now. Cheap enough to replace if it fails. Stray If I fitted a switch to kick in at 80 my fan would be running pretty much all the time here in Aus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fonque Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 I installed ebay aluminum radiators and a spal reverse flow fan, and my cooling issues have been solved. In the few months of commuting since the install, bike never goes above 221F. This even in stop and go DC traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 Link man. We need links!! Radiators, electric water pumps, fan switches, fans. All of the above seem to have helped, so can you guys help others out by posting links to the goodies? It would save a lot of time and ensure we get the right parts. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 24, 2017 A brief search on Amazon will turn up a variety of water resistant switches to operate or turn off the fan. A 2 position switch will allow the fan to be forced on or for the thermo switch to control it. I used a 3 position (dual throw) switch to also allow me to turn the fan off at speed, when it's fighting the airflow. I prefer the round style so that I can drill a hole for mounting vs cutting a square hole. There are many options. I have seen toggle switches mounted around the grips on some bikes, but generally those are not designed for potentially wet environments. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=waterproof+rocker+switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fonque Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 On 12/23/2017 at 10:14 PM, Lint said: Link man. We need links!! Radiators, electric water pumps, fan switches, fans. All of the above seem to have helped, so can you guys help others out by posting links to the goodies? It would save a lot of time and ensure we get the right parts. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegaquark Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 Wow! Lots of ideas here! Yes, i'll clean my rads soon, but the issue of eating away the aluminium is always a concern when using aggressive chemicals.The idea i've liked the most in here was the electrical pump one! Maybe is not good at all for the battery-regulator system, but if you combine that with led cluster and led tail lights you can compensate the electrical load... We deserve more info about that pump project! Please share it with us! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Stray Posted January 26, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted January 26, 2018 I am currently installing an RC52 SP1 4-row oil cooler with custom ally bracket on my 5th gen. Pictures to follow when complete. Got me thinking: what purpose does the rubber sheet that hangs from the coils on with side of the frame and runs behind the oil cooler serve? Is it to protect against water spray? Is it there to channel air somehow? Part 1 in this pic: The pictire is deceptive as the sheet hangs downwards when mounted. It is called “air cleaner guard”. Is it just that simple? Was thinking to to get rid of it but curious what others think. Stray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Keeps hot air away from throttle bodies and airbox. best thing you can do to keep things cooler is a manual fan switch in parallel with stock thermo switch. turn on fan when you first come into slow traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Stray Posted January 26, 2018 Member Contributer Share Posted January 26, 2018 RC51 oil cooler install complete! This is what I got from the breakers - grubby with seriously bent fins and a few harder bashes. Washed in the sink with soap and lemon household cleaner (don’t leave it on too long). Toothbrush for gentle cleaning. Used tweezers and flat screwdrivers to straighten fins. Took 3 hours in front of telly! There were some bits beyond repair but you’ll agree it looks much better. Made a a custom hanger bracket to raise the cooler up a bit and centralise it. Stock bracket puts it really close to the right radiator. I can’t weld so used M6 rivnuts (a kind of threaded rivet). Fresh one one is on bottom of this pic and compressed on above it. Measured, remeasured and remeasured again. Then got it wrong! Anyway, this is the bit that mounts onto the cooler grommets. Reused original washers but cut down the inner bush as rivnuts were now in there. Comparison of original cooler and bracket vs modified. Put the blowtorch on left oil line to bend it outwards a bit as RC51 mounting is angled (VFR is straight). Used both BFR and RC51 o rings for oil line mounts as the aperture is slightly different (sorry, no pics). Mounted pretty clean and 2mm clearance from left rad fan (also a RC51 item). Left the rubber shroud off (air filter protector). That’s it! Test tomorrow for leaks and oil level change. Stray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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