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Everything posted by Stray

  1. PM received and responded - thank you! Your work on this is nothing short of amazing, SF. You boys pulled off the impossible and others have tried for decades - respect! I wanted an 8th gen system so bad I could taste it but personal circumstances changed right as I was about to get one. Luckily things have improved somewhat but JUST too late to get on the last production run. Turns out quite a few people who bought these didn’t fit them and have had changes in circumstances of their own. I’ll pick up one of these and save waiting for the next run.
  2. Hello All, I’m looking to upgrade my 5th gen with a performance header. Already have a catless 5th gen system but looking for that little bit more. If you’ve got a TBR, Erion or other performance header please get in touch via PM. All headers from 5th, 6th and 8th gen considered (8th gen prefered). Not really looking for OEM replacement systems like Motad or Delkevic...needs to be a performance system please. I’m based in England and happy to import if price allows. Best, Stray
  3. Anyone got one of these headers they want to shift? Ideally the 8th gen version for front-facing rad but I’ll consider any. Based in England and happy to import if it’s not extortionate. Please PM! Best, Stray
  4. Slightly off topic, but I saw this interesting VFR750 header on eBay and thought I’d share: Note how it merges front and rear whilst giving the rear pipes a bit more length. I wonder if those loops interfere with the rider’s feet. Clever, me thinks!
  5. Sounds like there’s still air. With the SC off, try turning it so any areas near the bleed nipple or hose union where bubbles can get trapped are facing upwards. Then push the piston in with your thumbs. Might need to do this a couple times. Watch out not to spill fluid out the master at the top as it could damage paint. Best to keep the fluid level below max and put some towels round to catch any spray when you push in the piston. Wash any spills off ASAP with water. Rotate the SC to get at all the air-trap spots. Refill with more fluid and pump lever as necessary. DO NOT PUMP THE PISTON RIGHT OUT!!! When you’ve done all you can, fit everything back together and leave the master reservoir lid open just a crack. Pump the lever 20 times to build up as much pressure as you can (watch for spills again) and on the last pump tie the lever to the handlebar. Leave overnight and you should have a rock solid clutch in the morning. This also works with brakes, by the way. Don’t do this on a humid/rainy night as don’t want your brake fluid absorbing moisture. Happy riding! Stray
  6. This is why I love this forum. Guys like RC1237V helping a fellow rider. Good on you mate - really proud to be on the same forum as you! Oh my - that sounds like a mechanic’s worst nightmare. Bet you regretted opening the shop that day! So please for you, Styran. Looks like you have a pretty good handle on mechanics and also the maturity to know when to ask for help. Even the world’s best get it wrong sometimes and it takes guts to ask for help. Well done getting this over the line!
  7. Don’t panic mate - it’s fixable. This is what I’d do if it were mine: 1. buy a new shifter cage thing (not sure what it’s called?) off eBay. Looks like this one from a 6th gen and very cheap... 2. Remove clutch slave, speedo and sprocket cover. Get everything off and out the way 3. Remove all bolts so only the broken bolt is left holding your “shifter cage thing” on 4. take a Dremel or angle grinder and CAREFULLY cut around the bolt hole where the broken bolt resides. The rest of the cage should just pull off as it’s only held with dowels. DON’T CUT INTO YOUR ENGINE! 5. if you’ve done it right the only thing left should be the broken bolt and the piece of cage it’s stuck in. Now just grab it with a pair of pliers and unscrew it off. It’s very easy this way. Plus, you’ll have access to rethread the stripped hole properly with everything out the way. If you don’t have a Dremel/grinder you could probably snap off pieces of the “shifter cage thingy” with a pair of stout pliers. These cast aluminium pieces are very brittle. You may also want to buy a new bearing for the shifter shaft whilst you’re in there. Also very cheap. Have fun! Stray
  8. Really cool bike! I noticed the famous Harris rearsets and awesome paint. What other non-standard parts does it come with? Is the high-mount exhaust standard for these?
  9. Hello All, Is there a list of engine bolts anywhere? I’m looking to replace all mine with Ti/SS/Al and would rather not pull them all out one-at-a-time for measuring. Will probably do the rest of the bike too (suspension, chassis and bodywork etc). Have seen a few “kits” for sale but they’re often marked up 400% compared to buying loose. On my other bikes I ended up having to compile (and publish) a comprehensive bolt list. Just hoping someone has already done it for the 5th Gen! Any advice welcome. Stray
  10. Did valve clearances on my 10,500 mile 5th gen engine and one of them was on the very edge of spec. If I’d waited for 16,000 miles it would have been out of spec for sure. Of course it would still run OK but wouldn’t be ideal. Maybe I’m too anal to leave internal maintenance for long but this sort of thing keeps me up at night!
  11. Thanks for getting back, Duc2V4. Shame to miss out but not the end of the world. Always wanted an 8th gen version but my financial position recovered just too late.
  12. Why not epoxy the hole with the bolt in? The bolt should be lubed first and the epoxy won’t stick. When epoxy cures then bolt gets backed out and voila - new threads. Lots of YouTube tutorials. If it was mine I’d build the hole up with alumiweld rods and drill/tap. You can also do this with the bolt in place as above (alumiwekd won’t stick to steel so the threads will be perfect). These are low temp solder-like rods that can be melted with a torch. Repaired a few things with them in the past. Best, Stray
  13. So I’ve done some reading on solid state relay (first stop - what the heck is one of those?). Turns out most of these work from 3v-upwards. They require around 1.6v to saturate/actuate the switch. This means a motor with current draw of, say 6v, only has about 4.4v to operate. Loads of forums say how motors drawing around 3-5v don’t work properly with solid state relays. They only seem to run at half power. Electric motors are best at fully on or fully off. Partly on creates resistance/heat and burns out the motor faster. That’s why Davies Craig use Pulse Width Modulation, which powers the motor fully on for intervals (pulses) rather than graduated power. I’m starting to understand why their controller isn’t suitable to the brushless low-draw pumps. Every day is a school day. But not sure where to go from here. Stray
  14. Post up a sound clip (with and without) when you get it!
  15. Thanks for chiming in, Mohawk - I was hoping you’d join the party! Like you, I don’t understand how Davies Craig's booster pumps are too small to register on their controller. Unfortunately I don’t have the skill/knowledge to figure it out myself. Was hoping someone would have a solution but no one appears interested. Even spoke to a few auto electricians locally who just blink at me with a vacant look. Should I be talking to programmers instead? Here’s the email response I got from Davies Craig about how to control their EBP40 (I also asked if their older controller would work since the new one doesn’t): So what do you guys think? Will this delay warmup too much? It won’t be as quick as stock but will provide better cooling at full temp. I think? Or I could just use the existing bypass and hoses to mount the EBP40 in stock position. Both options require a thermostat. Would rather have an electric controller. Stray
  16. I vote for the replica too! RCs are getting on for 30 years old now. If you use decent components and get the styling close enough your replica would probably be a better bike than the originals when finished. At a fraction of the cost and with pride in your achievement. A newer machine with modern brakes, suspension, fuel commanders etc would likely ride rings around an original one. Loads of RC30/45 fairings available and all they need is some brackets. Have at it!
  17. You‘ve done a great job on that 6th gen - really good looking bike!
  18. Good question, Danno. I guess if the bike runs at optimum temperature (at speed or at idle) and warms up properly it can be deemed to work. You can say the stock system achieves all that already but it relies on the thermostat to regulate the arbitrary RPM-based water pump. If I get some extra MPG and a smidge of power that’s a bonus. Ability to run pump after shut down to avoid heat soak is also good. I’d like to improve coolant pumping and eliminate the thermostat for smoother flow. Will improve cooling in traffic and the odd track day. Most controllers have a light to indicate system failure. And there’s always the temp gauge as a last resort. I also believe the 5th gen ECU shuts down when dangerous temps are reached (please correct me if wrong?).
  19. Appreciate your reservations, chaps. Honest feedback always welcome. Few points to note: 1. Existing system isn’t great as it’s a compromise. It has to turn the water pump enough at idle to cool the bike at the lights. But does it do so? If you idled you’re bike for 30 minutes would it run nice and cool? Mine wouldn’t! Conversely, if it cools enough at idle imagine how fast the coolant is flowing at 10,000rpm with air rushing through the radiator at 100mph! Existing system goes from feast to famine whereas electric only pumps what’s needed all the time. Much more elegant. 2. you’re right that the rad and fan are big parts of the cooling equation. I’m not ditching those. But having a more elegant water pump surely must be better? Those which fitted these pumps (without a controller) often post they can’t get the bike up to temperature, even when revving it for long periods. One of our lads said he couldn’t get the bike hot enough to engage VTEC on his 6th gen. Despite this, good MPG gains have been reported. You’re right about introducing complexity. Controllers and pumps can fail. Remember, however, these EBPs run for hundreds of thousands of miles in VWs, Mercedes and other makes every day. Electric Vehicles use these as the only method of cooling with great success. And our brothers run fuel controllers like Power Commander or Rapid Bike day-after-day without issue. Equally, mechanical water pumps do fail, same as any other part. There are a few threads on here about exactly that. I believe these aren’t available from Honda any more so members might be interested in an alternative. An electrical system offers control based on demand. That’s got to be better than an arbitrary system governed by engine RPM. I’m just trying to find a way to make it work.
  20. Marooncobra, it’s only 4.6A at full tilt. That’s less than the fan! Also, the stator pumps out full amps all the time. Any extra is shunted to the regulator and dissipated. This won’t tax the electrical system - simply using up power that would otherwise be scrapped. Sorry if I wasn’t clear. It’s the pump that doesn’t like a full head of pressure and might fail sooner. Thermostat doesn’t care about that but causing it to open-close-open constantly might also compromise the thermostat. Is your Davies Craig controller reliable? I believe Mohawk and the Phantom have electric water pumps. Mohawk has same issues as me with the controller so I’m guessing he still runs the thermostat. Absolutely...if it ever gets off the ground. Without a good controller this is stillborn.
  21. Depends on the concentration but phosphoric acid isn’t one of those nasty ones that burn through flesh and cause land to be contaminated forever. It’s a reasonably gentle acid (we drink it in Coca Cola!). Dilute about 1/10 and dab it until rust turns black. If it doesn’t react add more acid. Mix a small batch - you won’t need much. Then rinse well to stop it reacting. I’m told baking soda and water helps with that but I just rinsed with lots of water. You can buy rust converter which is 99% based on phosphoric acid. Or just use Diet Coke (takes much longer but does work).
  22. Correct! Good thinking Danno but it’s not that simple. Pump needs to circulate coolant even when cold or I could end up with hotspots around the cylinders. And simply turning the pump on at X degrees is a bit crude. Needs PWM to ramp up circulation gradually as it’s needed. No point running a pump full throttle if the temp is only just coming to operational levels. Or having it completely off when temps are just below X. Also, the controller would allow me to fine tune the pump and run it after shutdown. A simple switch wouldn’t cut it.
  23. Hello All, I’ve been dreaming of an electric water pump for years. No real reason other than I like the idea and want one. The existing mechanical piece does a fair job but the electric ones have several advantages: 1. Can run them after shutdown to avoid heat soak 2. They can be configured run at an optimal speed and aren’t forced to run at engine speed. This means they don’t cavitate at high revs and aren’t hopeless at idle 3. Electric pumps can improve MPG and apparently release some (very little!) extra power as they’re not run by the engine 4. They offer better control over cooling if you can get a decent controller 5. Better coolant flow if you can delete the thermostat I’ve decided to try the Davies Craig Electric Booster Pump 40 (EBP40). It pushes 37 litres per minute which is more than enough as loads of litre bikes run fine on their 15 lpm pumps. The EBP40 is a wonderful brushless motor rated at 100,000 hours. My problem is the controller - can’t find one to work with the EBP40! Davies Craig’s controller is designed to run their bigger car pumps. The smaller booster pumps apparently don’t have a high enough starting voltage to trigger the controller so Davies Craig don’t support their use. Davies Craig say best thing is to leave the mechanical thermostat in place and run the EBP40 at full speed all the time. Thermostat will open & close to control cooling. But I don’t like that idea for 4 reasons: i. The stock thermostats are notoriously fragile and a bitch to replace. It would be worked hard by the EBP and will likely fail quickly ii. EBPs don’t like pushing against a head of pressure. Pushing against the thermostat isn’t ideal, neither when closed nor open iii. Removing the thermostat opens the pipes to full bore giving less restriction/turbulence/pressure iv. Need the controller to get full control over cooling system (running after shutdown, choosing optimal operating temp etc) Apparently Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) is the best way to control these things. So does anyone have any ideas or experience with these? Any advice? How do I control mine without a thermostat? Know my way around a spanner but electrics are a nightmare. Programming controllers is an absolute black hole in my knowledge. All advice gratefully received. Stray
  24. My opinion - go cheap and see if you can salvage them first. Doesn’t look like the rust has penetrated deep, as others have observed. My method is to rub with aluminium foil and phosphoric acid (or Coca Cola if you can’t get some - use diet to avoid stickiness). The Phosphoric converts rust into a honeycomb phosphate coating - this stuff is TOUGH. The tinfoil breaks off into microscopic bits that embed in the phosphate layer. Scrape any big rust lumps off with razor blade. Make sure all rusty spots are blackened by phosphoric acid. If not, wash it with phosphoric acid (or Coke) again until it does. You can’t do this too much! Then epoxy any deep craters (JB Weld works great) . Don’t worry if it sticks out - deal with that later. Once cured for 24 hours, use razor blade to scrape down bumps of epoxy until it’s all level. Now rub fork oil over the surface. Phosphate coating absorbs and traps oil beautifully, making the repair waterproof. Then, VERY fine sand (I used 2000) followed by grey scotchbrite pad. Use oil as lube rather than water. Epoxy is softer than steel so will wear down even. DO NOT SAND/BUFF UP-AND-DOWN! Do it sideways. As Magneto says, chuck the stanchions on a drill and spin it to buff. If you can’t do that, throw them on a broomstick and buff like a shoeshine. This helps create horizontal ridges that hold oil and stops cutting up seals. Same idea as cylinder honing. Aim for a 45* cut. You’ll end up with slightly less mirror-like chrome and your stanchions will work great for years to come. This works even on worse rust than yours. Give it a go before you spend any real money. Will cost you less than £5 ($7?) in kit and about 2 hours in work. Good luck and post pics when you’re done! Stray
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