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Everything posted by rhoderage

  1. could always go by your local honda dealer and see what they say... i would assume they can look it up, perhaps if you're lucky they have experience replacing ignition and actually know what you're talking about
  2. Agreeing with the thought that they are probably not necessary... can you just match the thread and buy standard bolts instead of the security ones?
  3. Haven't done my 5g yet, but on my 6g I had Heli's... bike got hit and knocked over and one bent. I found a member selling used Gen-Mar risers, which are equivalent to Moto-CNC. I think they are great and not far off the Heli's... and MUCH less expensive. Glad I never ditched the OEM bars when I originally put the Heli's on...
  4. I bought a car with some miles so this has perhaps become more of a spring / summer project. Just a slight delay 😀
  5. I also have an 02... my clutch rattles at idle. Pull the lever a little, it gets quiet. Possible you were hearing that as well
  6. So we pulled the injectors... plenty of rust crap on top and in the inlet. And some rust remnants on the rail output I guess at the moment the goal is to try to flush them with carb cleaner and do the 9v battery trick... will see what happens and go from there. If I can get a reasonable spray, hopefully these are salvageable... we have a good local company who does injector cleaning, had my 02 injectors done a few years back. If they aren't salvageable I can replace them. More than anything I just want to get to a 'good enough' state FIRST so that I can put everything back together and test fire the bike. I knew all about the rusted out tank and the crud dragged through the fuel system. What I don't know is if the PO was being forthright... ie is the engine snafu'd? Really want that answer before I start paying for parts. I'm really enjoying this bike so far... and the wife thinks I'm nuts, so win/win 🙂
  7. 2 things going on here today... First, starting point after yesterday's endeavor Lets take a look at the throttle bodies... The injectors themselves... Their seats in the fuel rail... complete with debris Gunk appears to be rust particles and gasoline from said crudded up fuel tank... At this point I figure I'd better pull the other 3 spark plugs and see whats up... I had already pulled #3, it came easy (felt 1/4 turn past finger tight). #1 was stiff and I was immediately worried about whoever had played with it before... but after a bit of pressure it let up. I then went around front and moved the oil cooler; #4 and #2 were both 1/4 turn past finger tight, and I was perhaps a little surprised to see what came out... So if I were guessing, the front bank #2 and #4 are original or at least have been in place longer than #1 and #3. They have more burn on the porcelain and more soot on the electrode end. #2 and #4 are the same type, the CR9EHVX 9. However #4 is gold colored base, #2 is silver colored base. #1 and #3 are identical, CR9E. Service Manual says CR9EH-9. Continues to make me curious about what has gone on with this bike 🙂 Hopefully I can get these parts all cleaned up and go from there. Will remove the injectors from the rail and start cleaning that up this afternoon... think I should replace these plugs? I'm inclined to want 4 known new/good/ all the same Feedback / comments / insight always welcome.
  8. Thanks Danno... appreciate the feedback. FPR is definitely a potential culprit for the poor running condition that I have basically zero info on! It is #3.... I'll pull the others in the next couple days and post for comparison.
  9. Fast forward to today. On vacation for the week, so planned garage time with wife support! The bolt which connects fuel line from tank to fuel rail had been removed during previous troubleshooting. I also removed it, and pushed some paper towel into the rail to see if there was rust / debris contamination from the fuel tank. Didn't take a pic at first, this was a re-do (and a poor one), but yes the first swab was all brown and rusty. I swabbed the end hole and the hole which lines up with the banjo on the fuel line from tank. Same result in both, rust. So that said, the throttle bodies will be coming off so I can attempt to clean the fuel rail and injectors. Since there is an unknown maintenance and troubleshooting history, and with the tank already disconnected I never tried to run it, I figured I would pull a spark plug next and see if there was any noticeable issue there. Looks like a spark plug ... no rust or debris ... anyone see a problem here? I think its all good, will pull the other 3 eventually to be sure. So that said, I'm optimistic that the rust and crap from the fuel tank only made it as far as the rail & injectors. So lets pull the throttle bodies; never done that before, have avoided it on my 02 through the years... but its time This is as far as we've taken it today. Tomorrow I will get into the throttle body. Still undecided on how far to go with this... original plan was just get it to run, ride it for a bit and sell it. But now I have a 5g... why would I want to sell it? Trying to decide how heavily to clean the V... and whether to start buying parts or focus on getting it running. To be determined!
  10. Back at it... not much has happened since summer; busy with work and life. Spent some time cleaning up the chain a few months back; it looks to be in good shape along with the sprockets.
  11. Since you are in there, and the front CCT's seem to last 20-50k km, why not throw in a new one and have no concerns for a few years or more? I listened to mine chatter over a couple of summers and finally took the plunge... aside from the bolt head which sheared off - which told me the PO had already changed it once, and he was a goof in general with the work he did on the bike - it was a straightforward process. I didn't remove the TB's or much of anything, had to disconnect a coolant hose and tie it back but all in all it was simple. I did drill out the oil port in the gasket in hopes it will help the new CCT last even longer... I don't think there are solid results to say either way here, but as noted there is little risk of harm from doing it and perhaps it will help in the long run. Winding the spring is iffy, and at best buys you some time... if you swap for new then at least you know what you are dealing with. Mine is an '02 and my rear CCT is still silent so I will continue to hold off on that until necessary...
  12. I'm at about 10k km or 6k mi...so far so good
  13. Agree, i went -1+2 on a 520 setup on my 6g and its a noticeable difference. Chain was due anyway so it was a necessary replacement item... sprocketcenter pricing was fair and shipping was reasonable to Canadia
  14. I feel like someone just ordered the frankebolts for their 5g in a recent thread... have you searched? I'm sure someone posted about them still being available sometime in the past month or so (i bought a 5g in August so i've been tuned in a little more to those threads than just 6g)
  15. Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm about to start digging into the non-running 99 i bought... Danno would that exact noid light work on a 5th gen and a 6th gen ?
  16. Please do post some pics of the front sprocket area once uncovered so we can see if the chain did any damage... really good that you are OK, that could have been scary with a chain on the fly...
  17. Agreed with everything Cogswell said. I intend to keep my 02 for as many decades as I can. As much as I'm excited to get my new-to-me 99 in running condition this winter, I'm already considering NEXT winter's project to be swapping the 99 engine into the 02 body. I enjoy the bike, and my time is almost a 50/50 split of riding vs wrenching/cleaning/farkling... which means I don't ride enough these days but I have every reason to keep it and continue to enjoy it for a long time to come. And its long paid for which helps lol. I would buy a white 8g if I found a good deal - I think they look the most modern of the VFR's, and clearly those who have them enjoy them. I continue to be surprised and impressed that many 6g riders who upgrade to 8g find it a better overall bike, thats a HUGE win for Honda on what seemed almost to be an afterthought ('oh wtf, we have a parts bin, lets cobble together a new 800'). I think the 5g looks very dated in the front and tail. The 6g in white/black colour scheme still looks modern to me, though it is a little porky with the side rads and flared tail for the underseat exhaust. Mine turns 20 in December this year.
  18. Its a great question and I will try the various rust removal techniques... this appears to be the original tank, it has yellow paint underneath the orange. Would be great to save it; visually its ok with no real dents or outside rust
  19. August 22 2012 I purchased my 2002 VFR800... I've been on VFRD for the duration of this time and its been a tremendous resource. BUT you folks have turned me into one of yourselves... and for a few years now I've had real interest in a 5th gen. In the meantime I moved to a house with a garage. The hunt has been on for a winter project... I've done a lot of work on my 02 and the increased confidence (and quantity of tools) makes me want to try a full rebuild. Budget was <$1000 to buy it. Doing the daily search online, find a local 5g which has a write-up indicating that the fuel tank rusted out and the bike wont run due to debris. He just wanted to get rid of it... we emailed and chatted... I rode over to take a look. $900 and 3 hours later he's taking it out of his truck in my driveway. Was it fate? I did NOT expect a VFR to be my <$1000 project, and I couldn't be happier! So we have a 1999 VFR800. Not quite 47000km. Original colour was yellow. Non-running currently. New battery. Ancient scary tires. No exhaust can. Cheapy ebay REPSOL fairings with paint runs under the clear & decals... good from 10ft [they will attach better than in pics; mount points on bike are tweaked, and there are only a few bolts currently holding all the plastics on... yikes]. Bike lived outdoors for a couple years per the PO, and parts are weathered. Shout-out to my wife for agreeing and not being angry. I can't believe she was cool with it... she's a keeper. The plan: I don't know! The goal of the 'winter project' was to refurbish a bike I wanted to ride on a low budget, ride it next summer, and sell it the following spring unless its a keeper. [I still don't know if I'm allowed to KEEP multiple bikes]. The first step is to get it running... once riding season is over, I will take my 6g tank and hook it to the 5g and see where we are at unless I can de-rust or replace* the current one by then. In the meantime, fairings are off, and I'll be digging in looking for anything else which needs repair. Looking forward to some quality garage time over the next year! I'll keep this thread updated with progress.
  20. That'll work! I like the black remote canister, looks sleek At some point I removed the front zip tie showing in my old pic above.... the other two are relatively 'straight' and are not noticeable No issues in the 4 years or so that I've had the shock
  21. Agreed with danll... i just dealt with this problem on my 02; PO had torqued the bolts and when i went to remove the CCT, as soon as i put the ratchet on the first bolt the head sheared clean off. D'oh!
  22. 11 years later, the truth lives. Quick backstory - bought my 02 VFR used in 2012. When I installed a K&N, I noticed the airbox velocity stack bolts were all stripped... odd, what did the PO do under the airbox? A year later I installed a PC 5, had to go under the airbox - first extract the stripped screws [one was so bad I actually dremel'ed off the velocity stack for better access] no sign of damage or any other ham-fisted repairs/'upgrades', so who knows... forget about it. To present - front CCT has been clacking off and on for a couple of years, seems to be getting more frequent. "Just get on with it" - ordered a replacement. I was all worried and worked up about dropping the damn 'cap' off the old CCT into the engine. I got all set up, wires and hoses out of the way (TB still left on the bike)... put the ratchet on the top bolt of the CCT, removed, and the sealing washer falls off and under the TB/hoses where I simply can't get it. Damnit. You know its aluminum so a magnet won't work, but no worries, I check with local Honda and they actually have one in stock! $2 and I'm back in business, ready to attempt the next day. Put the ratchet on one of the two bolts which hold the CCT to the engine case, start turning, no resistance (thats weird, it seems loose already) and this is what I get: "3 - You could tighten the two CCT bolts by hand, BUT Don't be a lazy bestid and use the torque wrench." Methinks the PO had replaced the CCT previously. [metal CAP was pinched on TIGHT, had to pry it off... very confident this had been replaced] Methinks the PO did not use a torque wrench, look at the stretch on the intact bolt! The head/cap literally just twisted off the first bolt, the second fortunately came out properly. Methinks this is when the bonehead probably did the damage to the airbox bolts... ah well at least now I know. I was deathly afraid of scratching/grooving/damaging the mounting surface. I was deathly afraid of drilling in crooked and catching the threads... I know thats not an 'end of the world' situation, but its one I have never dealt with, and its the top of the engine case! Its also summer so I don't want the bike to be down for days/weeks/months... and I did NOT want to pull the TB and cooling hoses and start having to replace gaskets and seals and washers etc [that is a winter project next year when I have a garage instead of a driveway for a workshop]. Fortunately my Dremel fit between the frame and TB and let me get a drill bit on the stub. I drilled off and on for part of 2 days, SLOWLY, CAREFULLY, with 2 different sized bits and the mounting surface taped off to minimize chance of damaging it. In the end I was fortunate and got the bolt out without doing any significant damage [pic shows some of the metal flakes from removal still around the hole, I have since cleaned that up with a Q-tip soaked in brake cleaner]. It was beer-o'clock so I had to stop there and do a victory lap. Today I finish the CCT change. I enlarged the gasket pinhole to 2.5mm so hopefully that helps this one last longer. DON'T OVER-TORQUE YOUR BOLTS!!! 😃 Update: all back together
  23. Yep that was my solution and still holding strong years later. THe only reason i had to chop into the battery tray was that with a passenger on the bike, i found the reservoir [mounted in same location but prior to cutting the battery tray] was pushing on the brake lines. This solved it. Yeah i should really invest in some nicer clamps instead of zip ties but when you are standing looking at the bike you barely notice it. pic from a couple weeks ago
  24. I sent Jamie my forks for him to install his kit and also got one of his rebuilt CBR shocks... worth every penny, and he was great to deal with and for any support after the fact. Also no issues shipping from Canada to him and back. I'd do it again and I'd have full confidence in buying his new product.
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