Jump to content


Member Contributer
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Days Won


Cogswell last won the day on November 2 2021

Cogswell had the most liked content!


About Cogswell

Profile Information

  • Location
    Riot City, Oregon :(
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

Recent Profile Visitors

26712 profile views

Cogswell's Achievements


Mentor (12/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges



  1. So it sounds as though in the FSM they're specifying the range of watts draw to charge the battery, not the overall capacity of the system. Or, could it be the amount needed to charge the battery and run the basic systems - ignition, headlights, etc. ? It seems odd that the OP's question goes unaswered in the FSM - Honda seems very good about covering everything else.
  2. I'm hoping to understand this a bit better . . . In the 3/4 FSM on page 15-5, it mentions that the regulated voltage should be 13.5 to 16V, and "Charging Current" is 5 to 9 Amps at 5,000 rpm. Does that imply that, of the stator's output, about 130 watts (14.5 x 9 - taking the typical regulated voltage times max current) is making it out of the R/R with the rest lost to heat at the R/R? Possibly similar to crankshaft and rear wheel horsepower - some loss in the system to get a net available number? Is that a proper interpretation? What is it Honda is telling us with those numbers? Maybe someone with better knowledge of power systems than I possess could shed some light on that. I've wondered similar - not just what can the stator put out but what is the net available to be drawn from the system.
  3. It's unfortunate that some online platforms such as Amazon and ebay are not better policing many of their vendors adequately to keep counterfeit goods off their sites. Disposable batteries seem to be especially prone to that. I would think a vendor with their own site such as in this case would take more care not to tarnish their reputation with fake goods. They could just be closing out that item and clearing stock. It's definitely gotten more difficult online to tell what's what with name brand goods.
  4. Unfortunately no delivery to overseas buyers. :(
  5. To bmart's point, I think he's implying that you use the strap wrench to rotate the pipe to break the corrosion. Great idea. You don't want to bang on it too much and put dents in it - that will only make it worse. You could also break the clamp tabs off, but you probably won't be re-using it anyway. On re-assembly with your new pipe, some copper or better yet nickel anti-seize can go a long way towards preventing the issue in the future. I remove mine once a season to prevent the pieces from becoming too friendly.
  6. So this is a long shot - no mention I could find of how it ever came out. But, desperate times call for desperate measures . . . On the Aug 16th post in this thread by damionj, https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95638-rescuing-a-92-vfr750f/page/4/ Mention is made of placing an order for a petcock from Japan from webike.net (link embedded in post) https://japan.webike.net/products/24659472.html Note that the part number is one of the two NLA petcocks listed in the fiche from Honda. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1991/vfr750f-a-vfr/fuel-tank Maybe send a PM to him and inquire if the part ever arrived. Who knows maybe the website was not updated for the NLA part, but maybe you get lucky. Alterantively, contact the site and inquire about availability. Shipping from Japan is probably steep, but if it's the only place to get it . . . If you post up your findings, some closure on this would probably be of interest to the 3rd gen community as these are a problem that leaves the bike a museum piece unless sorted. As for green carb gunk, maybe some additives were in the fuel or some weird reaction from the ethanol, or who knows . . . There are some other threads on here about carb revival and V4 dreams is also a good resource for resurrecting older bikes. https://v4dreams.com/index.html
  7. Here it is - petcock looks just like yours. Reading the entire thread and looking at the photos, you'll get a flavor of how lucky you were to find such a pristine example. With so few 3rd gens still around, there just isn't a large enough market to make it worthwhile to manufacture a specific part such as that. Likely it will be DIY or get lucky to find one (or a whole tank) on ebay. Let us know how it works out. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95638-rescuing-a-92-vfr750f/page/5/
  8. There was a thread I would guess between 1 and 2 years ago about this very thing on a 3rd gen - the petcock looked about like that and was unserviceable. After much searching he took a chance on a $25 ebay tank and it had a good one. As far as I know the petcocks are not interchangeable between generations, so it's hard to know what to do in that situation. I can't recall who posted that topic - I'll rummage around a bit and see if I can locate it. There were some ideas in it that might replace the petcock but were never needed after the replacement was found. Edit: This thread has a bike just like yours and how the owner solved the petcock problem - had a rusty tank, petcock was toast, NLA from Honda. But, I don't think this was the one I was looking for. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/96244-rescuing-a-91-vfr750f/page/5/
  9. Wow, you have both the seat cowl and the impossible to find side stand fairing. Honda called the gold on those wheels "Summer Blond Metallic". It's a very light gold that sparkles in the sun - just stunning with the red when it's all cleaned up and polished. Great score!
  10. That might be the only logical conclusion. It sure seems unlikely to have happened on its own.
  11. Just thinking out loud, could it be that the salesman is no longer working there? They don't usually last long. Anyway, a vehicle dealer has a dealer's license, in this case from the state of Oregon. That can be in jeopardy if they are not properly acquiring title to inventory and processing it for purchasers. If it were me I would go on the state of Oregon's website, find the department that licenses vehicle dealers and place a call. Explain your situation and see if they advise you on next steps. Best of luck with it.
  12. I couldn't agree more. About the only thing I farm out is an A/C recharge - the equipment is just too expensive to have for a very occasional service.
  13. Hey Grum. I can provide the 2nd example of that phenomenon. At 30,000 miles (50,000 or so km's), I checked mine and found all 8 VTEC and 3 standard valves to be way tight. At first I thought that couldn't be right for all the reasons normally mentioned, including only part time VTEC operation. I thought that I had to be wrong, that I'd made a mistake. So, I made no adjustments and put the entire thing back together. It ran fine, pulled and sounded as before. No issues. When the weather really turned bad and it wouldn't be ridden for some months, I dug in to it again (I was now faster as I was better at it). Same result. So, figuring somehow I was missing something or was measuring incorrectly, I got a friend, a 30 year A&P mechanic who's owned numerous Honda M/C's and wrenched on them personally, to come over and check them. I purposely kept quiet my findings and just told him that I was struggling with the check and if he would have a look. I didn't influence him in any way to be looking for what I thought was happening. I had cams in and pins out of the VTEC buckets so he'd have to do everything except strip the bike down. I left him with tools, pin latches, the procedure and explanatory working of the VTEC latches. I then left him for a several hours with some pizza and cold snacks. When I came back he had finished measuring, but the cams were still in and he hadn't removed the latch pins. I asked him "so, what did you find?" As he handed me the paper with his measurements he replied "your 8 VTEC buckets are tight and you have 3 of the others that are tight." Looking at his measurements, they weren't quite identical to mine, but they were very close and the other 3 he measured as tight were the same ones I had. I still do not know what could have caused that and it still seems counter intuitive. It's a very expensive fix as the VTEC buckets are over $250, significantly more if purchased at list price. The bike's back together and running, though I've had a hard time reconciling how owners have run them over 100,000 without adjusting the valve with no issues. I can't speak to anyone else's bike - that was just my experience with it.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.