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Mileage Let's Rock'em 'til the wheels fall off...


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35 minutes ago, RC79NC001 said:

IMG_a3692.thumb.jpg.a82d160cec1725e36b014de2d9cc6243.jpg

Nice. Its interesting to me that some of the 8gens including mine are seeing some high distance numbers, yet haven't heard of a single CCT replacement and I think they are the same part number as 6gens. Just curious!!

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32 minutes ago, Grum said:

Nice. Its interesting to me that some of the 8gens including mine are seeing some high distance numbers, yet haven't heard of a single CCT replacement and I think they are the same part number as 6gens. Just curious!!

 

I wonder if Honda improved them when re-introducing the VTEC engine on the 8th gen and Crossrunner but kept the same part #.  Sixth gen owners may be upgrading and not knowing it when replacing their CCT's (wouldn't that be something!).   If that's the case it's going to take a long time for that to become apparent.  It would sure beat "rewinding" the old CCT's 6th gens originally came with. 

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19 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

 

I wonder if Honda improved them when re-introducing the VTEC engine on the 8th gen and Crossrunner but kept the same part #.  Sixth gen owners may be upgrading and not knowing it when replacing their CCT's (wouldn't that be something!).   If that's the case it's going to take a long time for that to become apparent.  It would sure beat "rewinding" the old CCT's 6th gens originally came with. 

Good point Cogswell sounds like a reasonable assumption. Have just checked and confirmed the part number hasn't changed, still a 14520-MCW-013. But yes, they may well have improved the inernal spring quality and kept the same number.

Cheers.

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48 minutes ago, RC79NC001 said:

Had both CCTs replaced during the 60k valve adjust....trying to get rid of the ticking

 

noise. Post 60k service my VFR feels stronger than new....

Ah there you go I knew someone would spring up and prove me wrong regards 8gen cct replacement.

 

Did they show you the old ones? Did it cure the "ticking"? Or did the valve clearance check/adjustment clear the ticking?

 

CCT's are renowned for producing a noticeable slap or clacking sound, particularly with a warm engine and a blip of the throttle as the engine returns to idle. A ticking sound may be more associated with the valve clearances, although I guess that would have to mean larger clearances not the normal tighter clearances......just a thought.

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15 hours ago, RC79NC001 said:

Grum the honest answer is I don't know. Six valves were out of spec and while

 

my mechanic was in there the reasoning was to do the CCTs also. 

Sounds like you have a good mechanic with both bike and you in his best interests. When you're on a good thing, stick with it.:fing02:

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Seems in very good condition for 553,xxx km - 343,xxx or so miles.  Maybe they slipped a decimal point in the ad.  If accurate,  that's the highest mileage 6th gen I've  seen. 

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3 hours ago, Cogswell said:

Seems in very good condition for 553,xxx km - 343,xxx or so miles.  Maybe they slipped a decimal point in the ad.  If accurate,  that's the highest mileage 6th gen I've  seen. 

 

I was curious, so I looked it up.  One of the photos in the ad shows the odometer to be 53,348 km.  The seller made a typo, simply putting an extra "5" on the front.  😉

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OOOPS, it was late when I spotted this ad, sorry I didn’t look at every photo, just thought wow that’s some impressive mileage. On another note a mate just took delivery of this sixth gen yesterday. Very very nice.EA1F2D19-DA8B-446D-A96D-83179513BF23.thumb.png.d29ff9c114a3d30f37b04c864713d765.png

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No not a statistician but sometimes it's good to present your info  a different way. I

have a diary for  my VFR....everything gets logged. Fuel economy not so much but, I'd wager it's almost always over 45 mpg. The 8th gen is an efficient beast....

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  • 2 weeks later...

my mileage is 72000 km on vfr800f 2014, and all is working well.

 

My vfr is taking 4,5 liter in 100 km in speeds like 120-130 km´s per hour.

 

It was more before, my brakes were dragging.

 

Also noticed on rear break caliper if i tightened it down then there was brake drag, loosing the bolts about 2 turns the brakes stop dragging........

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On 6/27/2020 at 5:03 AM, BusyLittleShop said:

Anyone one else meeting their mileage expectations running a 30 grade???

 

RC45Grade30.JPG

I have just started using HP4 10w30 after 52,000km using Motul 7100 10w40. The bike seems to run a couple of degrees (c) cooler and also seems smoother running. This, of course, might all be in my head. 
 

I would prefer to run a fully synthetic 10w30 but struggle to find it in northern Sydney. Maybe it’s not that important and HP4 is fine. 

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22 hours ago, VFR78 said:


 

I would prefer to run a fully synthetic 10w30 but struggle to find it in northern Sydney. Maybe it’s not that important and HP4 is fine. 

 

Which oil is best for longevity??? either a 30 or 40 grade oils in
either synthetic or mineral will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...


Which oil is best for lowering temps??? the 30 grades flows with less
drag than a 40 grade...


Which oil is best for Horse Power??? the 30 grades flows with less
energy than a 40 grade...
full-45634-35309-oiltubeviscositytest.jp

 

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22 hours ago, VFR78 said:

I have just started using HP4 10w30 after 52,000km using Motul 7100 10w40. The bike seems to run a couple of degrees (c) cooler and also seems smoother running. This, of course, might all be in my head. 
 

I would prefer to run a fully synthetic 10w30 but struggle to find it in northern Sydney. Maybe it’s not that important and HP4 is fine. 

Modern oils are so much better than what was available back when these bikes were new. You can't go wrong with any of them really.

 

Note that as synthetic oil breaks down, it actually goes towards high-end of viscosity-range. So your old Motul 7100 was getting thick with age as it wears out. Causing more load on system and generating more heat.

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This article, posted in another thread a few weeks ago, besides just being an interesting read, on the 3rd page  has some real world empirical data points on how this courier (dispatch) rider got his  3rd gen to ultimately reach 852,000 miles on the chassis before it finally had had it.  The first engine lasted 440,000 miles and the 2nd was at 412,000 when he retired the bike.  He also touches on what he did for chain maintenance and tires.  None of his practices may fit your situation and he was unusual, doing long stretches at a time so the number of cold starts over miles ridden were likely way lower than the average rider who does maybe 3,000 to 5,000 miles per year.  But as pointed out, oils now (as well as other ancillaries such as tires and even chains) are so much better than they were 20+ years ago that you can't go too far wrong at all with your choices.  Regardless, it seems likely that we will wear out before our engines do! 

 

Something that I started doing 3 years ago was to install a magnetic drain plug in the sump.  I encouraged a couple of friends that I assist with maintenance to do the same - one a KTM and the other a Kawi.   I'm somewhat amazed at how much sticks to the plug during an annual service, which can be in the 4,000 mile range down to just 1,500 in a lockdown shortened year such as 2020.  There is always a black ball on the end of it.  If I use a heavy paper towel to wipe it off and keep it centralized, I can turn the towel over and use the magnet to pick it up, so there's no question it's magnetic and not just the usual buildup of oil contamination over the miles.  Regardless of the oil you use, a magnet can keep that out of your rotating assembly.  I also have two magnets I apply to the outside of the filter.  Upon cutting one open, I found the same - two black dots on the inside of the can where the magnets had been.  I got mine from Dimple but there are likely many sources.  Rare Earth magnets will be the strongest and may catch more of that than Chinese knock offs - hard telling. 

 

 

Britains highest mileage rider.pdf

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Hi Cogswell.

Great post and I like your suggestion of the magnetic drain plug.

Can you or anyone suggest a top quality plug for an 8gen. Just don't want to fall into the trap of something cheap and nasty that could potentially fail, leak or damage the sump threads.

Muchous Gracious.:fing02:

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2 hours ago, Grum said:

Hi Cogswell.

Great post and I like your suggestion of the magnetic drain plug.

Can you or anyone suggest a top quality plug for an 8gen. Just don't want to fall into the trap of something cheap and nasty that could potentially fail, leak or damage the sump threads.

Muchous Gracious.:fing02:

At your service!  

 

I got mine from Dimple in the U.S.  (below).  They have a different shoulder than OEM - I was skeptical at first,  but they work fine, no leaks or backing out.  The one compatible with the 8th gen,  presuming it's  the same as for G6 is pre-drilled for a safety wire,  which I decided to begin using after getting the appropriate pliers last year. You'll need a new crush washer at each service (they'll be roached and not reusable)  so order plenty, or go on Amazon or ebay if you don't have a local supplier.  I've used both aluminum and copper washers,  either work fine.  I got my copper ones on  Amazon in a bag of 50.  These things are crazy strong.  They really hold on to things.  Worth considering are the oil filter magnets,  shaped like hockey pucks.  The VFR gets 3 staggered from bottom to top - all my other vehicles 2. They're not terribly expensive.  I had a magnetic plug in the CRV, Camry and 4Runner, but there was never anything on them, so after I ran out of crush washers I went back to the OEM plug and just use the filter magnets on the cars.  It's the bikes that produce the swarf that these things catch.  All the ones I've seen them in do it. I suspect it's from the gear box - that's the major difference I can think of between the bike and car engines.  IDK why manufacturers don't put them in bikes - car gearboxes, either auto or manual and differentials seem to typically  have them. 

 

https://drainplugmagnets.com

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