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sfdownhill

New 5th/6th/8th gen performance header now in production in USA

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38 minutes ago, TheLimey said:

I've been running my VFR for a while now without a heat shield and even with the stock headers on, I can feel the heat through my boot. It's fine while you're on the move, but does tend to get a little toasty when you're sat at the lights. I wouldn't want to ride it without boots and leathers on.

 

Kinda like a mid to late 90's Ducati?

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47 minutes ago, MBrane said:

 He said bung. hehehhe

 

 Seriously yes they're fine.

Thanks!

 

...heh, heh, heh...  Bungholio!!!

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2 hours ago, boOZZIE said:

 

Is there any need to re-install the heat shield (moded) on rear set?    No hot foot or brake line?

 

We have run our 5 gen and 6 gen test bikes without the heat shield behind the right rearset with no problems.

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I spose I can always put it on later if its to hot:idea3:

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Ok, so I've tried my Micron mufflers on but they be 1/2" short. It probably would have been alright if the Micron slip joint section wasn't slotted.

So now to find a fabricator to do a wee little extension 

 

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Read the whole post over  few days & I'm seriously impressed with the dedication & build process for these headers.

It looks like you guys are between orders for 6th gen ones. Is that correct @sfdownhill? I'd be keen to get a set, whats the status of the wait list?

Hope everyone is safe from COVID-19.

 

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Hi MrSquiggle - between chuckles from enjoying your username, I can let you know we have a couple sets of 6 gen headers available from the last production run. I’ll PM you with more info.

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Hello all I'm trying to get a group order for center stand stops from SEBSPEED. If you are interested go to my post. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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Not to take anything away from Sebs mad skills, more so if I can find a cheap arse solution I'll try to... and I did.

 

20200413_155107.thumb.jpg.9e8cab82dcfc98772812dbc8dab29187.jpg

That's the original stop sandwiched between the jaws of the slightly modified ( ground the leading edge flat ) strap clamp

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Nope that didn't work. Smh

Came back from a ride and it was about  1mm away from braking off.

Zip tied to C stand 4 now

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I think, I’m done with it. Hopefully, I’ll get it installed this week.

 

First pic is before and I tried to take the 2nd pic in similar light.
 

Edit: Looks like the forum platform resized the pics, so the clarity is gone. 
 

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C36441E3-743C-41B8-8E6A-E7EF59F6BD54.jpeg

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That's awesome, but I didn't bother since it wouldn't look like that for long on my bikes.

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On 4/13/2020 at 12:23 AM, boOZZIE said:

That's the original stop sandwiched between the jaws of the slightly modified ( ground the leading edge flat ) strap clamp

Cool beans, boOZZIE. Even simpler than the T-bolt clamp solution we were struggling with.

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6 hours ago, ducnut said:

I think, I’m done with it. Hopefully, I’ll get it installed this week.

 

First pic is before and I tried to take the 2nd pic in similar light.
 

Edit: Looks like the forum platform resized the pics, so the clarity is gone. 

 

Jawdroppingly gorgeous tubeset, ducnut. Fine work.

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4 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

Cool beans, boOZZIE. Even simpler than the T-bolt clamp solution we were struggling with.

Nah,  it didn't work mate.

 

The little rubber nipple thingy on the stop that pushes thru a hole in the OE exhaust almost sheared off and has been separated now.

 

I do have a solution for anyone who has the "complete" OE rubber stop and the OE 2 bolt strap clamp.

You just need a little right angle bracket with a hole for a bolt of the strap clamp and a hole for the nipple of the rubber stop.

 

c stop.jpg

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Does anyone know if polishing the headers effects the passivation?

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Good question-I was wondering the same thing. Mine are already turning a light golden color and mine were passivated.fef31e3c0d939d407a480ee5e0f07b08.jpg

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles.

 

The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds. 

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The question was whether polishing would affect the passivation.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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See the previous post.

 

Unless your exhaust reaches welding temperatures it'll be fine. Mine are getting that golden hue as well, but no signs of rust. The pipes on our rotary powered race car are a different story, but then the exhaust temperature is over 1000℉ for hours at a time.

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On 4/20/2020 at 10:10 PM, TheLimey said:

All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles.

 

The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds. 

I'm familiar with passivation.  I've worked in food manufacturing for decades and passivated plenty of stainless steel equipment.  The reason I asked the question is it has been my experience with stainless steel storage tanks and other equipment we always passivated after polishing the tanks.  I wasn't sure if polishing the headers after passivation could compromise or remove part of the oxide layer and leave the polished headers more susceptible to rust and corrosion.

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How many 8th gen headers are left?

 

I just bought a 2014 with an Arrow slip-on. I assume there would be no fitment issues and the sound would be divine. My shop has our own dyno and I'm interested in seeing what kind of power I can make with the right mods. You guys recommend K&N for the filter right? Any other intake mods on the 8th gen? 

 

What about the centerstand? Have people had issues with the stock clearances? Mine isn't a deluxe but the dealer installed the stand anyway.

 

I read through this thread as best as I could and appreciate the work SF et al. have done for the community. I look forward to possibly supporting the efforts here.

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9 hours ago, Rush2112 said:

I wasn't sure if polishing the headers after passivation could compromise or remove part of the oxide layer and leave the polished headers more susceptible to rust and corrosion.

I can't see why it would. The net result with passivation and polishing/wire brushing is all the same; you're revealing a fresh top surface of metal to allow the chrome content to oxidise. Once it's reacted with the atmosphere it forms a boundary layer preventing further oxidation beneath it. I think the only benefit of passivation over mechanical methods is it's quicker, removes virtually no material and can get into all the nooks and crannies around the weld beads. 

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8 hours ago, smokescreen said:

How many 8th gen headers are left?

 

I just bought a 2014 with an Arrow slip-on. I assume there would be no fitment issues and the sound would be divine. My shop has our own dyno and I'm interested in seeing what kind of power I can make with the right mods. You guys recommend K&N for the filter right? Any other intake mods on the 8th gen? 

 

What about the centerstand? Have people had issues with the stock clearances? Mine isn't a deluxe but the dealer installed the stand anyway.

 

I read through this thread as best as I could and appreciate the work SF et al. have done for the community. I look forward to possibly supporting the efforts here.

All 8 Gen headers have been sold and I believe all but maybe 1 of the 5/6 Gen headers. SF has more details on the 8 Gen fitment, as he was working with the builder and had use of fellow member samuel’s bike. That being said, most of the aftermarket cans link pipe may have to be expanded to a 51mm ID , depending on what bike you have I.e. 6/8 Gen vs. 5 Gen. There’s also some brake line routing and heat shield fussing you’ll have to deal with on the 8 Gen. I thought SF posted the little caveats and idiosyncrasies of the 8 Gen setup but he’ll have to answer that.

 

Not sure how this pandemic will affect any immediate future builds but I can say the the builder was open to a smaller number in order to start the next batch. I haven’t spoken with SF in a while in regards to even entertaining another batch but at the time we did speak, we were both open to doing it again.

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Oh yeah, in regards to the K&N air filter recommendation, it was selected as the one used for the Dyno tuned bike, so we have a known working sample. No other airbox or intake mods were done on any of the bikes as far as I recall. Note however that K&N has two models of the air filter BUT both have the same part number (Go figure?!). One of them however has a much larger square inch coverage with the filter material. Not sure how to order and get the latter one other than possibly call K&N directly.

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