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Woodie

Won't start in Gear

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Only really an annoyance but my 2002 VTEC 800 6th Gen won't start if it's in gear.

I know the clutch switch works as it won't start unless the clutch is pulled in.

I know the sidestand switch as it kills the engine as soon as I kick it down.

 

The bike runs fine, once I have started it I can ride it as normal but I have stalled the engine when it's cold a couple of times and it's annoying to have to drop back to neutral to re-start it. Anyone have any ideas?

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I had the same issue with my 1200.  Turned out to simply be a bad connection by the clutch lever.   There are a couple of them there...make sure they are all secure and it might solve the problem for ya.

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Hi Woodie.

There's a bit of contradiction in what you say!

You say the clutch switch works because it won't start unless its pulled in, But then you say you can only start it when in neutral! If you are in Neutral the Clutch Switch has NO say in the matter.

When in gear the Side Stand Switch AND the Clutch Switch (when pulled in) provide a series ground path for the starter relay.

Assuming as you've said the Side Stand Switch is OK then other than perhaps a broken wire, Highly suspect your clutch switch is not operating properly for an in gear start.

Cheers.

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On ‎09‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 1:15 PM, Grum said:

Hi Woodie.

There's a bit of contradiction in what you say!

You say the clutch switch works because it won't start unless its pulled in, But then you say you can only start it when in neutral! If you are in Neutral the Clutch Switch has NO say in the matter.

When in gear the Side Stand Switch AND the Clutch Switch (when pulled in) provide a series ground path for the starter relay.

Assuming as you've said the Side Stand Switch is OK then other than perhaps a broken wire, Highly suspect your clutch switch is not operating properly for an in gear start.

Cheers.

 

Thanks for the clarification. I'll have another look.

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Sometimes, if the switch has been unplugged and plugged back in, it actually gets stuck between the connector and the rubber boot. So it might make intermittent contact for a while, then not. There's two individual connectors in the boot that need to each fit over one of the blades coming out of the switch.

 

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Woodie, seems you & I have the same issue m8. :wacko:

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If you have aftermarket adjustable levers, it is possible that the clutch switch is simply not getting pushed in far enough to close the circuit consistently. I thought I had a dodgy clutch switch and pulled it off on Saturday, used contact cleaner, was happy with the clicking, then reinstalled it but could not hear the click. That is, until I adjusted my clutch lever reach. Then it worked perfectly.

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Agree with above.

I had to glue a small square of plastic on my after market levers to make the switch work.

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Well.... seems the clutch switch was the culprit. Took it off, gave it a good clean put it back.. Et Voila. it starts..

 

 

 

Well it would do if the battery wasn't flat.. Ho Hum.. I suppose I'd better get the meter out and test the Reg/Rec.

 

 

:mad::mad:

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1 hour ago, Woodie said:

Well.... seems the clutch switch was the culprit. Took it off, gave it a good clean put it back.. Et Voila. it starts..

 

 

 

Well it would do if the battery wasn't flat.. Ho Hum.. I suppose I'd better get the meter out and test the Reg/Rec.

 

 

:mad::mad:

 

Woodie, what needed cleaning? I've taken the switch off mine but it looks clean, though I have sprayed it with Contact Cleaner. I can see the 2 contacts but have no idea how to tell if it is serviceable or not. Nor what makes the contacts move. I've got aftermarket levers on but they've been fine for 000's of miles. I'll put the oem clutch lever back on and see if that makes a difference.

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39 minutes ago, Skids said:

 

Woodie, what needed cleaning? I've taken the switch off mine but it looks clean, though I have sprayed it with Contact Cleaner. I can see the 2 contacts but have no idea how to tell if it is serviceable or not. Nor what makes the contacts move. I've got aftermarket levers on but they've been fine for 000's of miles. I'll put the oem clutch lever back on and see if that makes a difference.

 

I use IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol not that rubbish Wetherspoons sell) gave it a good wash out and then some PC/Contact cleaner. wiggle the button in and out. usually works on switches.

 

I have in the past dismantled them, and scraped the contacts but this worked so didn't bother.

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I've just put the oem clutch lever back in and it works perfectly.

 

wtf?

 

What is it on the lever that closes the contacts?

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I guess not all levers are created equal...

 

I often use IPA too but here's the brand I use...mostly for my well being!

IMG_2060.thumb.JPG.8ccbdb498753e903845f0b22c61002eb.JPG

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You will find there is an extension to the lever that pushes the clutch switch contact. I had a similar issue with replacement levers. I just drilled a 3mm hole in the lever where it contacts the switch & put a piece of alloy rod in the hole that protrudes by 1mm which is enough to activate the switch. you could perhaps build it up with tape or use liquid metal etc.

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2 hours ago, Mohawk said:

You will find there is an extension to the lever that pushes the clutch switch contact. I had a similar issue with replacement levers. I just drilled a 3mm hole in the lever where it contacts the switch & put a piece of alloy rod in the hole that protrudes by 1mm which is enough to activate the switch. you could perhaps build it up with tape or use liquid metal etc.

 

Cheers Mohawk.  :beer:

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