Corey Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I have stock front and rear suspension on my 5th Gen. Could someone help me better understand my suspension? Basically, how do I know my suspension is working correctly. How do I know it is setup properly? And how do I know when it needs work and/or an upgrade? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Polarbear Posted May 15, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 15, 2015 All good questions. Sorry I cannot contribute anything but I will be watching the answers from some of the wizards on this site. C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted May 15, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 15, 2015 I have stock front and rear suspension on my 5th Gen. Could someone help me better understand my suspension? Basically, how do I know my suspension is working correctly. How do I know it is setup properly? And how do I know when it needs work and/or an upgrade? Thanks. Go here, download and read it... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/files/file/231-racetech-suspension-bible/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Go here, download and read it... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/files/file/231-racetech-suspension-bible/ Oh boy! I can't say I didn't ask for it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 As they say, the best suspension you've ridden is the best you know. It is one of those things that is hard to describe. You have to ride it, try different stuff, and ride it again so you know what feels good and what you did to get there along with what doesn't feel good and what you did to get there. Start with setting sag correctly and then systematically play with the dampening to determine what those screws do and how it affects the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2015 Having had my suspension tuned for my weight over the winter, my $.02 is that getting it set up properly is a night and day improvement when leaned over. On the other hand, the ride will be less plush. For riders that are used to mostly just sitting on the seat, best learn to grip the tank, as a sharp bump can cause the "family package" to take a beating! None the less, having suspension professionally set up is definitely worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted May 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2015 Start with setting sag correctly and then systematically play with the dampening to determine what those screws do and how it affects the bike. Not much to adjust on the stock suspension, however if there are screws and knobs on the forks/shock, that's the way to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 If I mostly ride the twisty back roads, would it be worth it to buy a rear shock (929 conversion or stock re-valve) or a fork cartridge Kit or spring/re-valve from DMr? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted May 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2015 If I mostly ride the twisty back roads, would it be worth it to buy a rear shock (929 conversion or stock re-valve) or a fork cartridge Kit or spring/re-valve from DMr? IMO, yes. I had JD revalue and spring an ABS OEM shock for my 09 and also provide the valves, shims and springs for the front forks. It made a big difference and my 09 is my commuter/tourer, so I do sometimes get to up the pace on some of those twisty back roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 If I mostly ride the twisty back roads, would it be worth it to buy a rear shock (929 conversion or stock re-valve) or a fork cartridge Kit or spring/re-valve from DMr? I would do the forks first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthshake Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 I would do the forks first. Only if you can't afford both at the same time. Having one end done will really highlight the weakness of the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted May 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2015 Youtube setting sag and then setting rebound. Keep watching the vids and a common theme starts to develop. Read the manuals. Understand rebound and sag. Research what static sag is right for the bike and then the overall sag with you and gear. Check rebounds again.If you cant get within those perimeters, you will probably need mods.This just gives a place to start. Ride the bike. What do you think? What is it doing right? What is it doing wrong? Bouncing? Not staying planted to the road on bumps? before you throw money at it make sure you ride beyond the limits of your suspension. Is your suspension effecting your safety or riding ability? If it is, you need work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lannyl81 Posted May 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 16, 2015 I, too am in the same state as Corkey. I have only had my '97 for a couple of months so I am still getting familiar with how it rides and everything...but I am wondering if the suspension needs renewed due to age. As far as I can tell just about everything on this bike is OEM, has 25k miles on it, but is 18 years old, so besides letting my bike buy me a beer...LOL....should I replace suspension based solely on age?? I downloaded the book from the link above and am enjoying reading it, but thought I would throw my question into this thread as well....not meaning to take Corkey's thread here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 I would do the forks first.Only if you can't afford both at the same time. Having one end done will really highlight the weakness of the other.Agreed. But I read the initial post as asking if both needed to be done together or if they could be done at different times ($$) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted July 19, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2015 OK, sooooo. On my 5th Gen. I have the 954 rear, VTR front with Race Tech springs. The dampening is the stock VTR. I have my sags set to 25-30mm range. I have been experimenting with rebound and I am sure I am not getting enough out of the front. I even set it all the way in and still not enough dampening. What is next? Modify the rod? Or new rod? The rear is good. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 19, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2015 What size springs in the front and how much do you weight with gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gig Posted July 19, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2015 Youtube setting sag and then setting rebound. Keep watching the vids and a common theme starts to develop. Read the manuals. Understand rebound and sag. Research what static sag is right for the bike and then the overall sag with you and gear. Check rebounds again.If you cant get within those perimeters, you will probably need mods.This just gives a place to start. Ride the bike. What do you think? What is it doing right? What is it doing wrong? Bouncing? Not staying planted to the road on bumps? before you throw money at it make sure you ride beyond the limits of your suspension. Is your suspension effecting your safety or riding ability? If it is, you need work. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted July 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2015 What size springs in the front and how much do you weight with gear? .85kg for rider and gear with a wet weight bike if 430+-. it all checks out, I am close to where I need to be. I just feel that I need to add dampening to the front. I usually want to dial it in stiff, then soft and find that sweet spot in between. I cant get that stiff setting without running out of the adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2015 Jamie install .95 on mine, I am 200lbs with gear and by the end of the riding season my ,95 were flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted July 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2015 Jamie install .95 on mine, I am 200lbs with gear and by the end of the riding season my ,95 were flat. I think because of the weight reduction in the bike and a lighter rider I am good on spring. I get the 1" sag. Is there a common rod mod or change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2015 You could increase the length of the shim . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted July 20, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2015 You will never get enough rebound using the standard VTR stack. As a matter of fact, both the compression and rebound will be miles off. You really need to revalve it to suit. And I don't agree with having the suspension properly set up means it will be stiffer. Everyone feels the suspension different, nobody can set up your suspension for you and tell you "that's how you need it" Stock as is, has very limited adjustment, new springs are only the beggining of a set up. When you don't have external adjustments, you can only fix things by going internal. That means your shim stacks and valve bodies. The 929 shock is good value for money, but not if you've left it stock from the CBR. Transplanting gear from another bike without modifying to suit is a waste of money IMO. If you've got the gear, your more then half way there. Setting it up properly will transform the handeling of the bike, it will be more compliant, firmer when going hard and will not dive anywhere near as much. It will pick a line and lean angle more accuratley and faster, hold it there easier, and will not be affected by mid corner bumps or dips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer zupatun Posted July 21, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted July 21, 2015 The easiest way to dial in the adjustment on the forks is to first get them re-valved. VFROZ may be right with the VTR valving not getting you in the range you want. You could send them to Racetech, or Jamie Daugherty or to Traxxion et al...and have them revalved... I think Jamie will also send you a shim-stack if you are interested in re-doing the valves on the VTR. If you ever owned or raced a dirtbike you may have plenty of experience re-shimming the valves...but if not it can be learned. However it is easier to lean on someone with a shock dyno and get the valving right--send them out or buy a shim-stack from someone. The CBR F4i internals on my forks (did a F4i Fork swap, 6th gen triples and de-linked brakes) needed re-shimmed. I did a little playing around and seem to have found something that works for the strreet. At some time I will have them done professionally, but I am in the ball-park with the help of folks from a couple forums. That and I am not afraid to play with my bikes and hardware. What are you up for? Matt I don't work on shocks...just forks. Shocks I send out for work. I have an Ohlins out back that will need some work and I will not be doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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