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Stator Bbq Fix


Auspanglish

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Switch... your hands are not exactly a scientific measuring instrument...

:goofy:

A laser thermometer would be a little more de rigueur

No, I just know difference between can touch and can not touch.

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Yeah I know what you mean, just digging at ya. No offense meant!!

I replaced my OEM regulator for a Rick's one from wiremybike.com and noticed that it was cool to the touch where the OEM one was warm to hot.

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I am at a loss to see how an oil jet would work with the room available. The stator sits quite tightly within the rotor which shields it pretty well from anything other than a fairly derisory oil mist.

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That looks like the spot, you would hit the gap between the stator and the rotor .


Auspanoil just to make sure everyone understand the side of stator next to the cover is just as burnt and probably worst. The two burnt ones I have are worst on the side were the stator cover is then the side that is exposed to the rotor.

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I just noticed that flywheel does have little oil scoops to distribute oil.
Yes, the scalloped inner face of the rotor sidewalls would appear to have that purpose in mind..ady2ahyv.jpgBut evidently it is insufficient to requirements.
Auspanoil just to make sure everyone understand the side of stator next to the cover is just as burnt and probably worst. The two burnt ones I have are worst on the side were the stator cover is then the side that is exposed to the rotor.
The side that is not seen in the photos above?I'll be removing that stator in 3, 2, 1 and will confirm with more photos
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So....... why did they totally enclose the stator anyway??.... Can't it be open/dry like your regular car alternators?

Totally enclosing it will just always end up barbequing it with the heat soak that occurs in there.....

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So....... why did they totally enclose the stator anyway??.... Can't it be open/dry like your regular car alternators?

Totally enclosing it will just always end up barbequing it with the heat soak that occurs in there.....

The main reason is cost but your right it is a much better setup...

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Probably a function of mass and not cost. Seems like my bmw rt's had auto type alternators but they were big ol things.

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Probably a function of mass and not cost. Seems like my bmw rt's had auto type alternators but they were big ol things.

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I am having the stator rewound by a mob in Barcelona (MCMOTRONIC: http://www.mcmotronic.com/?page_id=6〈=en) who claim to use a special resin or isolating material that can supposedly take the heat... they provide a one year warranty so I'll have to USE the bike this year and get some km on to test it out WITHIN the warranty period). They will also be using slightly thicker gauge output wires and providing the latter with a poofteenth more length so I can reroute them around the front of the motor instead of through the valley of the V4... I think only an extra 10 cm are required and shouldn't pose a technical problem (alternator wires should always be as short as possible). They will be testing my mosfet (Rick's courtesy of Wiremybike) R/R to see if survived the heat... I ran the diode test on it but being mosfet it has tiristors or some such, you get false negative readings on the upper set (see Electrosport's guide here: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf )

i have purchased a new front wiring harness in the hope that the improvements made since 2003 will provide some relief to the system... however, on inspecting the new harness I see they have relocated the famous yellow ground terminal connector... and it is now orange once again (as it was on the 5th gen)... it is no longer wrapped up and hidden under the black electrical tape halfway along the LH branch of the harness but is now at the extreme end of it and very visible/accesible, together with the large shoddy blue and grey connectors within the clear plastic shroud used to protect these from the weather. What a nice little bbq they can all have snugged up together there!!

So, having taken this connector apart to check its continuity and such, I realized on putting it back together that it is really a bad design and is destined to fail... so I removed the plastic housing and placed the female terminals back onto the male prongs... according to the two separate groups the 10 or so ground wires are arranged into... and bulk soldered each lot separately, just as VFRKanuck did here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/?p=786528 but with a powerful 80W soldering iron instead of a blowtorch. One thing to note is on this new harness there are not 6 and 8 wires, lathough there are two pin buses with 6 and 8 prongs, there are only 4 ground wires on the 6 pin bus and 6 on the 8 pin bus... so I found some appropriate female terminals and ran an extra alternative ground wire off each grouping... and bulk soldered each lot!!

yhahype5.jpg
uqyzu3a4.jpg
be2yra7a.jpg

...to be continued...

PS I would mention that out of all the Green ground wires going through this orange connector, most are actually entering, and only two are actually exiting... they enter from the lights, indicators, instrument panel and such and the exiting wires then head off, one from each grouping... and where do they go?? Lo and behold, one goes to ground via the famous (for burning out) big blue connector and the other goes through the latter's big grey partner... just as VFRKNK said: Urethra!! and I would add: Uranus!!

Here's my two crispy stator's ....

Hard to decide... BBQ sauce or Sauté??

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they provide a one year warranty so I'll have to USE the bike this year and get some km on to test it out WITHIN the warranty period).

World Superbike at Assen is typically end of April.............. Just saying.................

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they provide a one year warranty so I'll have to USE the bike this year and get some km on to test it out WITHIN the warranty period).

World Superbike at Assen is typically end of April.............. Just saying.................

Dude... a picture speaks a thousand words...

3nhx.png

... but I would love to do it!!

2,222 km in 22 hours one way... according to google maps.

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Looking at the pictures on post 53, putting an oil squirter at the "proposed" location, with the red circle, would do no good really. It would still hit the flywheel, and would still miss the stator where it needs it.

From what I look at, the design is pretty simple: The main opening that shoots the oil out is hampered by the line for the VTEC. That opening looks to shoot the oil out over the flywheel, for the most part, and then it pools in the back, where it then runs down the side and collects in the center of the stator. Then it runs down the front, and back into the oil galleys.

The oil squirter would have be be located about an inch or so farther down the alternator cover. Pretty much on the main round surface. Just because of where the stator is located.

Unless I am off on my sizing, then just forget what I said. :wink:


Probably somewhere around this area:

post-25786-0-48219700-1383021510.jpg

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Yeah we are shooting blind... that was my guess... it may be somewhere in between yours and mine... the squirt has to enter right in between stator and rotor... it's a tight fit...

When I get the stator back from having it rewound I can make a more accurate indication... although at this stage I am just going to make to more notches at 3 and 9 o'clock... at the mounting boss, where it comes with a notch at 12 o'clock... cause I need to get the bike up and running... will be starting nursing prac at the infant surgery theatre of the Region's major hospital in a couple of weeks... and it's too far to bicycle to!!! (I don't own a car and have limited Access to the g/f's)

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