Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 12, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 12, 2013 So how does it fix the overheating problem?? you dont see the holes and the face of the rotor is exposed??? its air cooled vs being stuck in the engine and baking to death! the stuff from durbahn it .... WOW!!! Cpl.Alternator Kit Incl. Rectifier ,Alloy Milled Coil Holder ,Ready To Mount ,For Orig. Alternator Cover. 940 $ 90 gr rectifier,with 10 years guarantee,nearly undesstroyable ,handmade from a specialist in Germany. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 13, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 13, 2013 So how does it fix the overheating problem?? you dont see the holes and the face of the rotor is exposed??? its air cooled vs being stuck in the engine and baking to death! the stuff from durbahn it .... WOW!!! Cpl.Alternator Kit Incl. Rectifier ,Alloy Milled Coil Holder ,Ready To Mount ,For Orig. Alternator Cover. 940 $ 90 gr rectifier,with 10 years guarantee,nearly undesstroyable ,handmade from a specialist in Germany. I'm thinkin group buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 should be a Honda group buy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted October 13, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 13, 2013 Geez just fit a series regulator and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arri Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 So this was the secret system!! I like it. "You kwon now" it is time to define the method to quantify the improvement. This is what I have not clear as what you gonna do ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2013 Could one of those self oilers for chains work somehow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Thinking about it, would it be that hard to fashion up an oil squirter, much like the ones that would cool the bottom of the piston heads? The line would be super small, so I don't see it really affecting oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2013 Thinking about it, would it be that hard to fashion up an oil squirter, much like the ones that would cool the bottom of the piston heads? The line would be super small, so I don't see it really affecting oil pressure. Yeah I think your right and I even thought about adding a oil cooler to the system for extra cooling but that opens up a bunch of other factors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 It looks like the front half and top of the stator is what suffers the most from the heat. So directing a small stream of oil there would be a start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Really, if you look at where the stock notch is on the stator cover, and then look at where all MOST of the stators are still nice and white, you can see where the oil runs to. You have to introduce oil to the top of the stator, as that notch only catches the oil and directs it to the bottom of the stator. As an example. This is pretty much how the stator is oriented. You can see the notch, and the spot where the oil runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2013 Yep 91 good catch and it makes sense so a small oil line with a small diameter jet would work .. and from the way it's orientated that would be the side that the extra oil line would be located .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Exactly. One of the few concerns I would have is the clearance between the cover and the overflow bottle. Sure, you could easily modify one to let a line pass, but from a marketability standpoint, having to not modify one would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 All mc stators Ive ever seen , all burn at the top sector first, Vfr is no different. The only differnce is vfr stators typically last longer than the average motorcycle stator. Factors I see, What condition the stator left the factory(imperfections). and the factors that break down the expoxy coating on the wiring, such as , heat, vibration, and oil additives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 Really, if you look at where the stock notch is on the stator cover, and then look at where all MOST of the stators are still nice and white, you can see where the oil runs to. You have to introduce oil to the top of the stator, as that notch only catches the oil and directs it to the bottom of the stator. As an example. This is pretty much how the stator is oriented. You can see the notch, and the spot where the oil runs. Exactly.. That's the way we see it.. As I mentioned earlier.. ...in its original form, it has a prefabbed slot at the 12 o'clock position and any oil entering this slot will run out of the centre of the stator flowing down over the coils that you can see in the photos tend to be nice and milky white in colour, this both being based on and reinforcing our theory even further at the same time. So you are suggesting making use of the existing exit point where the three yellow output wires leave the stator housing? Nice!! Then the next question is where to scavenge the oil from without starving other components! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2013 Really, if you look at where the stock notch is on the stator cover, and then look at where all MOST of the stators are still nice and white, you can see where the oil runs to. You have to introduce oil to the top of the stator, as that notch only catches the oil and directs it to the bottom of the stator. As an example. This is pretty much how the stator is oriented. You can see the notch, and the spot where the oil runs. Exactly.. That's the way we see it.. As I mentioned earlier.. ...in its original form, it has a prefabbed slot at the 12 o'clock position and any oil entering this slot will run out of the centre of the stator flowing down over the coils that you can see in the photos tend to be nice and milky white in colour, this both being based on and reinforcing our theory even further at the same time. So you are suggesting making use of the existing exit point where the three yellow output wires leave the stator housing? Nice!! Then the next question is where to scavenge the oil from without starving other components! Something else, what if instead of a complete plexiglass window on the stator you did 4 quarter size plexiglass windows at 12,3,6,9 o'clock position. This would still kept the integrity of the cover and give you visual inspection of the stator. I can see some real benefits of this type windows. I think even with the extra oil and even a better cooling system it mite be a lifesaver you could look at the stator and see if it is starting to discolor from heat . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Man, Switchblade, it's scary how much alike we think on this... I've thought about the quarter window idea as well. Really though, one of the windows could be used to supply the oil to the top of the stator. So instead of 4 you would have 3 and a spot for the added oil squirter to be housed. Not sure how much that would cost to do, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be cheap. LOL Probably less than the $900+ for that part from Germany. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20wvYVJtkDM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 18, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 18, 2013 Yeh the gixxer's is exposed but VFR's(6gen anyway) are hidden so all that machine work not needed just a functional cover that could indicated trouble and provide a port extra cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Now to find some one with: 1. The skills to do this 2. The money to do this, or have this done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2013 Now to find some one with: 1. The skills to do this 2. The money to do this, or have this done Good points ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2013 Now to find some one with: 1. The skills to do this 2. The money to do this, or have this done Or... sit back, wait for Shindengen to finish development on the SHxx2 series R/R and screw spending 900 smackers on stator "fix". (Although it is a interesting idea going on with the oil spray.) - One more time to illustrate the differences between the effects of a Shunt and a Series R/R..... ---- Shunt ------ ------ Series ------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2013 Before I replace the Electrosport R\R with the Shin 775 R\R I did a hands on test at the stator cover and YES the Shin 775 R\R was much cooler at running temp's (per the touch) then Electrosport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2013 ^^^^ Jeez, --- Are they the same casting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2013 ^^^^ Jeez, --- Are they the same casting? Yeh pretty sure they are . Electrosport really wouldn't say who made there's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Switch... your hands are not exactly a scientific measuring instrument... A laser thermometer would be a little more de rigueur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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