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Stator Bbq Fix


Auspanglish

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There may be a quarter of an inch of clearance, but I doubt there is even that much.

Rats!....thought heat pipe coolling could be a solution. There just not enough space in there to do anything significant (outside of more oil spraying) to cool the dang thing.......sounds like the BBQ continues with the VFR stators for now........ :sad:

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Well... what if you just plugged the oil galleys (welding required, obviously) and then opened up parts of the alternator cover, by the back of the stator? Put a fine mesh over the material removed, add a scoop to the lower part of the fairing to direct airflow toward the stator...


Now that I typed that out, it sounds pretty ridiculous.

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Well... what if you just plugged the oil galleys (welding required, obviously) and then opened up parts of the alternator cover, by the back of the stator? Put a fine mesh over the material removed, add a scoop to the lower part of the fairing to direct airflow toward the stator...

Now that I typed that out, it sounds pretty ridiculous.

i said that a few post back.. its been done before.. and no welding required. :comp13:

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Well... what if you just plugged the oil galleys (welding required, obviously) and then opened up parts of the alternator cover, by the back of the stator? Put a fine mesh over the material removed, add a scoop to the lower part of the fairing to direct airflow toward the stator...

Now that I typed that out, it sounds pretty ridiculous.

i said that a few post back.. its been done before.. and no welding required. :comp13:

Yeah... I thought it sounded familiar... :goofy:

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I looked on Durbahn's site. The only VFR they make that kit for is the 750 and 400. There is a universal kit you can buy, but you are still looking at roughly $500 - $600, depending on if they charge you VAT. Then there is shipping, and the fact that you have to machine your own adaptor still. So yeah, probably close to $800+ by the time it is all said and done.

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i know another guy in AZ.. he took his 800.

. make a fiber glass plate that that plugged the oil ports.

if i remember correctly he drilled and tapped 3 holes for flat head bolts..

that took care of the oil mess.

and then he made swiss cheese out of the stator cover..

cant find the pix :computer-noworky:

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i know another guy in AZ.. he took his 800.

. make a fiber glass plate that that plugged the oil ports.

if i remember correctly he drilled and tapped 3 holes for flat head bolts..

that took care of the oil mess.

and then he made swiss cheese out of the stator cover..

cant find the pix :computer-noworky:

I like the sound of that ....

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Great, just what I needed... MORE thoughts running through my head... :comp13:

Flushing with copious amounts of alcoholic beverages helps............. :beer:

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Great, just what I needed... MORE thoughts running through my head... :comp13:

Flushing with copious amounts of alcoholic beverages helps............. :beer:

That makes it worse! for me at least. LOL

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I just pulled my fried stator off my 03 with 52K miles and it has the typical discoloration pattern as all others posted and I'm wondering if the coils that are not discolored are actually receiving "less" of the oil spray off the rotor in relation to which way the rotor spins.

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all motorcycles run the same pattern for some reason, and all tend to fail with one or two coils in the upper quadrant, then it expands. but if you look at those coils from the pic above, those were individually coated wires around each coil, and it all melted. thats not from engine heat, but from once the coils begin shorting to ground is when the stator REALLY heats up.

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all motorcycles run the same pattern for some reason, and all tend to fail with one or two coils in the upper quadrant, then it expands. but if you look at those coils from the pic above, those were individually coated wires around each coil, and it all melted. thats not from engine heat, but from once the coils begin shorting to ground is when the stator REALLY heats up.

Nah I thinks it's the other way, no cooling causes the upper coils to over heat and then the coating melts and then the short happens.

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Im saying engine heat didnt melt the individual wire coating into a paint job , the beginning of break down of the wire coating, may be a combination of factors, vibration, heat and or just fatique over time. But that stator got real hot to melt everything and that wasnt engine heat, that was from massive current heat.

Short out an electrical wire in an ice box , and watch the coating melt into a liquid

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Or maybe the VTEC transitions causes a current surge that the factory R\R can not dissipate fast enough but this would surely show up in the form of other electrical problems and then combination of the top part the stator is covered by the VTEC oil supply tube. Notice on the 8th Gen the stator in smaller(lower watts 420) and the cover is more exposed for more cooling perhaps.

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I don't think it's A or B but rather A then B. The stator grounds out from insulation failure and then the electrical imbalance starts occurring and you get really crispy coils. It reminds me of a 3 phase winding that lost a leg and went into a single phase event that fries some coils and spares the others. But why does the insulation fail in the first place other than heat, vibration, contamination, or electrical overload, imbalance. My stator still has continuity on all 3 leads so I wouldn't be surprised to find one of the coil groups not grounded once it is isolated from the other two.

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No, the current rush would affect every part of the stator NOT just the top part. It has to have something to do with the location of the stator .

It did, look at the melted shilack over the whole stator, those were once individually coated wires, the entire wire coating melted and turned into one big paint job of melted epoxy. That took a lot of Heat to do that. It even melted the coating on the clean well oiled coils at the bottom. Thats the first clue of how much heat went through that thing.

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