Veefer800Canuck Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Yes, a thin coating of grease over the axle surfaces will save a lot of grief later on. Of course, none on the threads. I used a bit of blue locktite on the 46mm nut, in addition to staking it in place at the indent on the axle. (see the other thread about people's sprockets falling off, but not mine!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted December 2, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2013 I am on the lookout for a shop press, I'll be able to do headstem bearings then, too. No need for a press to do the steering head bearings. The lower one on the stem, just take the old race, put a slot in it so it doesn't get stuck on the shaft again, and use that and a piece of pipe to hammer the new one down in place. Just don't forget the rubber seal. Good work on the rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 STROOTH MATE!! Fark me Rome!! That's the dictionary definition of stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 2, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2013 Yeah, but you got the 46mm nut removed .. Quite true! I thought that would be the hard part... After a bit of head scratching I got to work. iPhone photos 052.jpg It was 33 degress Celsius here today & I'm Australian, so I was working in shorts, thongs & a singlet. I don't think I _actually_ caught on fire, but I came pretty close. (Ah, hang on... thong, no, not that sort, the other sort. Flip flops? Not sure what you guys call them...) After about an hour or so of angle grinding, all those cutting discs & some upset neighbors, I had this: iPhone photos 053.jpg I cut it down to about 600mm long, rounded off all the sharp edges & stuck it in this shop press I bought yesterday iPhone photos 054.jpg Like so. iPhone photos 055.jpg Using a shop press for the first time is a pretty nerve wracking experience, the first thing I did was press in a pitbike headstem I had lying around & then I played around pressing out some bearings. It's only a 6 ton press, but they sure let go with a bang! iPhone photos 057.jpg Everything is lined up, I put a thin sheet of aluminium (or is that aluminum? ) between the axle & the block, just in case. iPhone photos 056.jpg Movement at the station... iPhone photos 058.jpg Bit of bang, & she's off. iPhone photos 059.jpg iPhone photos 060.jpg Of course, when it let go, my L shaped pieces of steel also fell off the bench... & straight toward my thonged foot. Now, oddly enough, (because I'm Australian, remember), I wasn't drunk at this point, so I was able to move my foot out of the way before it got sliced off, but it was a close call! Safety first kids... This is why I'm glad I went to the effort: iPhone photos 061.jpg None of the cush drive rubbers were connected, they look to be in OK shake though. I will replace anyway, plus the axle will be easier to remove next time. Speaking of the axle, it appears to have rusted itself to the cush drive where the splines are & at the cush drive bearing: DSC_0422.jpg I cleaned it up with the wire brush attachment on the bench grinder, there is a lot of pitting, but I think I can save it. (Pic is befor) The actual axle bearing surfaces are fine, no rust there. I'm curious to know how Kaldek treated it when he did the bearings so I can avoid this in the future. A good polish & plenty of grease should do the job, hopefully. So the bearing had been replace before by Kaldek. Yeh I wonder how hard it was for him to remove . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted December 2, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2013 STROOTH MATE!! Fark me Rome!! That's the dictionary definition of stuck. Bugger me with a fish fork...................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannytb Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 When I changed the rear brake disc on my previous bike, I wound off the nut, put a block of wood over the end of the axle, gave it a few good hits with a hammer, and it all popped out. Maybe I was just lucky... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 you should port the throttle bodies while they are out. with the throttle bodies port matched to 38mm 2001 R6 velocity stacks, there is a considerable gain in top end power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 2, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2013 Thats nice .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 you should port the throttle bodies while they are out. with the throttle bodies port matched to 38mm 2001 R6 velocity stacks, there is a considerable gain in top end power. I guess I missed the thread where you posted more details an dyno results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVinOZ Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 When I changed the rear brake disc on my previous bike, I wound off the nut, put a block of wood over the end of the axle, gave it a few good hits with a hammer, and it all popped out. Maybe I was just lucky... Maybe, I wasn't expecting this much trouble seeing as it had been rebuilt already. Anyway, done now! No need for a press to do the steering head bearings. The lower one on the stem, just take the old race, put a slot in it so it doesn't get stuck on the shaft again, and use that and a piece of pipe to hammer the new one down in place. Just don't forget the rubber seal. Good work on the rear axle. Thanks mate, got there in the end. I've done bearings like that before, but now I've got the right tool. So the bearing had been replace before by Kaldek. Yeh I wonder how hard it was for him to remove . Yes, I'm interested too, & interested to know if he used grease when he put it back together! I kid, I knew there would be hurdles, I can't blame him for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 3, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2013 Kaldek is a great guy, he made all us understand how the starter valves work and did not work .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keef Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I just saw this thread. If it's track only, and losing weight is important, i've done a couple things to my 5th gen that might help - if the the frame and swingarm are the same between 5th and 6th. I've changed the side mount rads to a front mount from a TL1000R, it works a hell of a lot better, and mounts up under the head stock where the 5th gen oil cooler usually mounts. I moved the oil cooler down so it now sits between the engine and the headers. The rad and mods to get it to work probably cost about $250. And I'm using a ducati 1098S forged alloy rear wheel that weighs abought 3.5kgs. However, if the frame and swinger are different and this wont work, ignore me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 The frame and swingarm are NOT the same between 5th and 6th gens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannytb Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I just saw this thread. If it's track only, and losing weight is important, i've done a couple things to my 5th gen that might help - if the the frame and swingarm are the same between 5th and 6th. I've changed the side mount rads to a front mount from a TL1000R, it works a hell of a lot better, and mounts up under the head stock where the 5th gen oil cooler usually mounts. I moved the oil cooler down so it now sits between the engine and the headers. The rad and mods to get it to work probably cost about $250. And I'm using a ducati 1098S forged alloy rear wheel that weighs abought 3.5kgs. However, if the frame and swinger are different and this wont work, ignore me. Wouldn't the front tyre hit the radiator in the most severe braking conditions? The curve in the front valve cover is to stop the tyre from hitting it, so surely there isn't enough room for a front radiator (even if it's curved). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 hell ya go for it !!!! post more pics please i love seeing these kinda builds !!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keef Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I just saw this thread. If it's track only, and losing weight is important, i've done a couple things to my 5th gen that might help - if the the frame and swingarm are the same between 5th and 6th. I've changed the side mount rads to a front mount from a TL1000R, it works a hell of a lot better, and mounts up under the head stock where the 5th gen oil cooler usually mounts. I moved the oil cooler down so it now sits between the engine and the headers. The rad and mods to get it to work probably cost about $250. And I'm using a ducati 1098S forged alloy rear wheel that weighs abought 3.5kgs. However, if the frame and swinger are different and this wont work, ignore me. Wouldn't the front tyre hit the radiator in the most severe braking conditions? The curve in the front valve cover is to stop the tyre from hitting it, so surely there isn't enough room for a front radiator (even if it's curved). Nope, doesn't hit it. It's above the curve in the front valve cover. I've used almost all the suspension travel (I have a zip tie around one front fork, I have about 10mm of travel left). I have shorter 04/05 gsxr 600 USD forks, too. There is room for a cheap and easy front mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannytb Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I just saw this thread. If it's track only, and losing weight is important, i've done a couple things to my 5th gen that might help - if the the frame and swingarm are the same between 5th and 6th. I've changed the side mount rads to a front mount from a TL1000R, it works a hell of a lot better, and mounts up under the head stock where the 5th gen oil cooler usually mounts. I moved the oil cooler down so it now sits between the engine and the headers. The rad and mods to get it to work probably cost about $250. And I'm using a ducati 1098S forged alloy rear wheel that weighs abought 3.5kgs. However, if the frame and swinger are different and this wont work, ignore me. Wouldn't the front tyre hit the radiator in the most severe braking conditions? The curve in the front valve cover is to stop the tyre from hitting it, so surely there isn't enough room for a front radiator (even if it's curved).Nope, doesn't hit it. It's above the curve in the front valve cover. I've used almost all the suspension travel (I have a zip tie around one front fork, I have about 10mm of travel left). I have shorter 04/05 gsxr 600 USD forks, too. There is room for a cheap and easy front mount. Hmmm... Interesting! It sounds like you need to post a thread with photos so we can all copy your work and cool our mid-summer boilers! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 you should port the throttle bodies while they are out. with the throttle bodies port matched to 38mm 2001 R6 velocity stacks, there is a considerable gain in top end power. I guess I missed the thread where you posted more details an dyno results? no, but i guess you missed the thread where i did 126 in the 1/4, in the summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 you should port the throttle bodies while they are out. with the throttle bodies port matched to 38mm 2001 R6 velocity stacks, there is a considerable gain in top end power.I guess I missed the thread where you posted more details an dyno results? no, but i guess you missed the thread where i did 126 in the 1/4, in the summer. Seems like a lot of work for only a seat of the pants confirmation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted December 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted December 4, 2013 I just don't get the whole drag race thing with a VFR. I get it with a bike like a ZX-14R. The VFR is a mile-munching, corner-slaying machine...not a drag racer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 you should port the throttle bodies while they are out. with the throttle bodies port matched to 38mm 2001 R6 velocity stacks, there is a considerable gain in top end power.I guess I missed the thread where you posted more details an dyno results? no, but i guess you missed the thread where i did 126 in the 1/4, in the summer. Seems like a lot of work for only a seat of the pants confirmation. Please explain to me how a certified time slip is a seat of the pants confirmation? I just don't get the whole drag race thing with a VFR. I get it with a bike like a ZX-14R. The VFR is a mile-munching, corner-slaying machine...not a drag racer. okej Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVinOZ Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Progress! No, not really... Work is pretty hectic, plus I'm trying to get a bunch of parts here in time for the christmas break, hopefully I can spend a day or two on this & knock over a heap little things. Plus, someone on the TRX forum put up a set of FCR41 flatslide carbs at a price I couldn't resist, just when I almost had myself convinced it was fine & it didn't need another 10HP. So that might set the VFR funds back a little Anyhow, before all that, I got this out, weighed it, scratched my head a little... Roughly 21 kgs, with the subframe being 8kg. (The VFR SSSA without caliper comes in at around 11kg FWIW) I got to thinking, between the heavy subframe, ditching the underseat exhaust & not running any tail lights, it's just going to be a huge pain in the arse to try & use this subframe in the short term. I was planning on ditching it long term, but it'll be easier to do it now. I figure pretty much any subframe is going to be a similar amount of work, I should find something pretty modern, commonly raced & commonly crashed... GSXR! Bingo. Jumped on everyone's favourite parts store & found this: Should be here next week. I had a spare hour or so, so I grabbed out the headers to see what I could do. Kinda looks like that crosseyed kid from school... I applied some heat... Got a bit physical & ended up with this: Measuring the exhaust port on the engine, I may have gone a little too far. Better! There's still a dent, but no-where near as bad as it was Another local-ish member (Hi CatiePotatie!) has been in touch & given me some info on the car rear wheel swap, plus she has an appropriate spacer to make it work, so I bought that & I'll recommence trying to find a car wheel to suit. It would be nice to get it to rolling chassis stage. Basically 3 months in now, I'd like to be done in another 3, but we're heading to the US at exactly that time, funds may be a little restricted before then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 You sure went on a bender with those headers ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVinOZ Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 You sure went on a bender with those headers ;) ISWYDT Nothing red wine can't fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 i have a motad catless header for sale if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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