Jump to content

Replaced Steering Head Bearings - Now Low Speed Wobble


y2kvfr

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

My steering had a center point notch that was so bad that the bars just wanted to move to the middle, and stay.

I ordered up some All Ball tapered roller bearings and put them in last Friday in the freezing cold.

Today, on my first ride on the new bearings, I noticed a wobble at low speeds. I don't think it was the music I was listening to.

I bounced the front end when putting it back together, each fork has 2mm between the top of the clip on and the retaining ring 'divot'.

Everything went back smoothly.

Did I over torque them? I didn't have the honda special tool, I drifted the bottom nut tight and then backed it off (note: it wasn't so tight the bars wouldn't move, just to the point where they started to drag)

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they are overly tight.

torque them to the honda spec of 18 ft/lbs, turn the steering head back and forth many times, torque again to 18 ft/lbs, lather, rinse, repeat. this helps seat the bearings.

then, back them off and retorque to only 5 ft'lbs. reassemble and enjoy. don't forget the locking tab washer.

tapered roller bearings do not require as much torque as round rollers, and having them too tight gives you (you guessed it) A low speed weave.

As for the proper tool, I made my own with a socket and an angle grinder and trial and error.

gallery_554_564_123001.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thanks Veefer!

Any idea what size socket you used? I'll stop by the store on the way home and brew one up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Trying to remember. it's the castle nut that get's torqued, right? I made myself a driver a while back. I can check on some 929 triples if they are the same. Think I sized it to an ST1300 triples since that's what was in the shop. I could mail that over if you really want to be sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Veefer!

Any idea what size socket you used? I'll stop by the store on the way home and brew one up.

Don't remember, I just took the castle nut to the auto parts store and found a socket with a matching O.D.

I used an Impact socket, because they have plenty of wall thickness to gnaw away at.

I marked the spots where the "legs" needed to be, using white out, and slowly nibbled away at the socket with a 4-1/2" angle grinder using a ZipCut disc.

Took probably nearly a half hour, pausing often to check the fit. But it fits snug so that you can set the castle nut on the socket and it won't fall off.

Also, it was a 3/4" drive socket, so I have to use two adaptors on it to take it down to 3/8" drive to use my smaller torque wrench on it.

see picture

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Yeah, it sounds like your new steering head bearings are a bit too snug. IMO you shouldn't feel any drag at all.That's the way I set mine. I tightened them until there was some drag, then backed off a touch until they would move freely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Anyone know what the ID of the 'pins' should be for the nut? I'm at work now, want to stop at the tool store on the way home later to pick up either an 'axle nut socket' or a socket to take the dremel to.

There is one on fleabay for $46, but if I can find something that will fit at the tractor supply it would be not only quicker but probably cheaper...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

What is the name of the place you work at again??? :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually I don't make a living as a mechanic anymore, and I would do a customers bike properly, I just know perfectly well that I can do the same job without the tool. Don't suppose everyone can, probably not the best advice I've given, but I've seen worse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Yeah, you can do it with a hammer and blunt object and get it done the same. It's not a super critical torque like head bolts. But similarly, I could put my camshaft caps on with a socket and hammer, but after tapping them in too far a few times, it's 20x easier to just turn some steel so it always sits at the right depth the first time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is also some wobble built into 5th gens on decell. Especially if you've added rear height. I cannot get mine to completely not wobble but it isn't a deal breaker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Torque wrenches and those other new-fangled equipment tool thingies haven't made it to the hinterlands of North Carolina yet. LOL Just kidding, just kidding. :beer: :beer:

Basically that is how I did it, it takes so little torque to set the new bearings it's no big deal to do it by using a punch. A very small hammer is all the persuasion you need BTW.



There is also some wobble built into 5th gens on decell. Especially if you've added rear height. I cannot get mine to completely not wobble but it isn't a deal breaker.

Mine has always had a tad of handlebar wobble on decel too, but with the new bearings I can not feel anything anymore. My ride height is standard so that could be most of the reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is also some wobble built into 5th gens on decell. Especially if you've added rear height. I cannot get mine to completely not wobble but it isn't a deal breaker.

I think the OP is referring to a constant, slight low speed weave, not a decel wobble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Right.

Its a weave, not a headshake. In fact, my decel headshake is gone.

Weave only happens 5 to 20 mph.

I'll drift them loose and white knuckle them back plus a small tap with the drift whilst I await a spindle nut socket of appropriate size.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Spend some time wandering around the aisles of Autozone. I do believe I found an equivilant socket...think it was like an axle socket or steering wheel socket or something. And for much better than $45+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

A good parts store might have one. I saw some cheaply built ones for $20 online, but not sure about the sizing.

I made mine more because I bought a foot of material to make a handful of tools, and this was from the leftover.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something for a FWD car might work, there are some applications for castle nuts, but you'd have to luck onto the correct OD and pin sizing.

Or find one that's super close and mod it a tad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

When interpreting the dynamics of motorcycle stability, it is useful
to understand that if your steering head bearings are too tight the
bike will weave and not rest at its own center... and if you're steering
head bearings are loose you'll notice a pronounce clunk during
braking...

I don't teach the torque method rather I raise the front wheel off the
ground and tighten the steering head bearings until the bars lock then
I back off the nut until the bars free wheel with a slight drag...
with this method you find that sweat spot and avoid over tightening
and under tightening even if you upgrade to taper roller bearings...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member Contributer

Just for future reference: The OD of the inside of where the pins go is 42mm.

Thanks for the help guys, it is all sorted out now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.