NakedViffer

Probably just a part number, Chuck. Long as it fits your output shaft you should be good to go.

I have this plus one tooth down in the front, I LOVE it.

I would, but its already topped out.. LOL.

I know exactly what you are talking about, I've been working on repositioning my radiator as well because my forks are dropped so far my radiator wore a hole through my fender from contact on hard braking. I know, I'm an idiot for letting it happen, I almost didn't want to tell anyone.. But hey, shit happens. I was more concerned with testing how much faster I could get around tight bends. I'm just gonna bob the backside of the fender and round it off again, its a ratty old thing anyway. I'll get it nice one of these days though.

I'm right there with you, Seb. The aesthetics of my naked bike do not cope well with 4 individual remote coils. Then again, I don't want to compromise reliability either, so I wait for someone to come up with something solid too.

Just a reference for you guys concerned with the heat range on your plugs, its called a 'heat range' for a reason, this number does not correlate to spark energy or discharge in any way, shape, or form.

You failed at the internet... Take your pick. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=vfr+lockset&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=vfr+key+lock&_sacat=0

Your engine braking is harder at lower RPM than higher? Are you kidding me? This thread is starting to make my face hurt.

Pretty sure the Hawk had clip ons and not handlebars..? Not 100%

I've used ALL BALLS wheel bearings for years, have changed out lots of sets, they are great bearings, nothing to worry about, make your purchase with confidence.

You might as well upgrade the standard shock, and then get a better spring, tailored to your weight. Just getting the XX shock will do little, but it might be a small step up from the standard VFR shock. The CBR1100XX is no better than the VFR800. Nothing to be had there! I'm talking from merely a higher rated spring than the VFR point of view. Not everyone has nearly $400 to throw at the suspension, and you can pick up a XX shock for less than $50. If you HAD to go cheap on the quick, it is a viable option for people over 200 lbs. The 929 is a much better option. Has external reservoir, fully adjustable, same srping rate as the VFR too. You throw a spring on one of those for $80-$100 and you might have $20-$30 in the spring.

In short, you need the entire front end from the donor bike, and you will likely have to change out the triple's. Thats the simple way. Other than that, trying to adapt your wheel/rotors and whatnot will require some fabrication work.

Also you'll have to forgive me for being backwards about top and bottom, I've been doing automotive suspension way longer, and its never upside down.

I don't know, I guess I'm just trying to make myself feel better. I buy and sell quite a bit, and I sold one of the base models like that years ago and I listed it as being fully adjustable. I didn't even know what it was for.. The last one I sold, man I wish I coulda made it fit the VFR, picked it up at the flea market for $50, it was in a box of extension cords and the spring coils blended in. That one ended up being for a 99-07 Busa and it was their top of the line model, and MINT.

Do you see that split black ring with the notches at the TOP of the shock? I guess, from what I can remember, that may be the rebound on the bottom, and the compression is the black knob, I don't think its actually split.

Not a bad price but does it only have one damping adjuster? Meaning both compression and rebound are all in one similar to the stock shock? Its fully adjustable, I don't think the nut you're seeing at the bottom is the adjuster, the adjustment is the two black rings stacked on top of eachother at the stop of the shock.

Wow! Bike looks amazing!

Yeah, Megasquirt would have to be utilized to make it any kind of economical.. Yes, its known to have some bugs and hiccups, theres a reason why a lot of the high end tuners refer to it as "Mickeysquirt". But it can be made to work well, maybe not as well as a motec unit, but for the price, it could come damn close. One of my good friends over here in WNC is one of the top EFI tuners in the country, people happily fly him around the country to have him come and tune their setup. He's listed as an approved tuner on every standalone website out there. So I'll be taking advantage of his know-how, and get him to help me setting up the ignition trigger aspect of things, which is the only part I'm not really clear on. I even considered bringing him a VFR PGM-Fi box, as thats the type of Fi used to tune most of the honda vehicles he does. There may be a way to tune those, if there was, this is the guy who would figure it out. Seeing that a 5th gen fuel injection/ throttle body assembly sells complete for about $50 used is what got me started on this. Would be nice if we could figure a way to get a complete conversion for around $1000, would certainly make my future turbo addition easier to dial in too. I'll keep you guys updated if when I make some more progress, certainly don't have the cash to be buying project parts at the moment.

Four FCRs isn't gonna be a cheap thing to do, plus the addition of the linkages and other conversion parts. I'm looking into what a fuel injection conversion would cost at the moment, I think it can be done for under a $1000.

I'd love to hear more about what you're doing to the 6g72. I'm a DSM guy at heart, but I still got love for the 3si cars.

Excellent video, Monk! I was taught to do this years ago, though slightly different, it always helped braking with new components. But I didn't understand the science behind it, and that it needs to be done regularly for best performance. Very good info.

Just for the record, the rev limiter isn't saving you when you down shift while trying to make an upshift. The motor gets mechanically driven up past redline(depending on what shift RPM was) by the rear tire and jump in gearing. Only way to save that is to pull the clutch back in as fast as possible. Anyway though, I'm pretty sure its either 929 or 900 rear sets that go on the easiest. I've been planning on a similar conversion for my bike.

More than likely whatever front end he is using has calipers spaced for rotors bigger than the VFR ones anyway. Probably not worth relocating the calipers too, just to accomodate older braking components. I don't think the calipers matter for the ABS system either. I mean, I'm not intimate with the VFR ABS system, but if its anything like their cars, you can run whatever rotor/caliper combo you want so long as you have the slotted wheel and sensor hooked up. I would want to take full advantage of the upgrade over the VFR stuff and use what are most likely bigger, better rotors.