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I had this happen a few years back coming down the mountain into Sunland.

Going into a sweeping left the front got real heavy, didn't want to turn.

I used my CO2 canisters to fill it partway a couple times, but once I got going it went flat pretty quick again.

Probably rode a couple miles or so on it flat. The shop said the tire should be OK, which I found hard to believe, having killed a car tire in a couple blocks.

The tire was fine and I got quite a few more miles from it. :smile:

I'm just speculating, but the sidewalls of a mc tyre are much stronger and the mc is much lighter............
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+1 on the Kurvy Girl set. Easier to air up and check pressure and it won't blow out or ozone crack.

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I bought mine in the paddock at the Nurburgring.

So I can do 200MPH no problem right????? :tongue:

IMAG1267_zps3fd3c564.jpg

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I am also in the Atlanta area (Duluth) and have an extra set of Bridgeport angled aluminum valves and a mobile tire changer / balancer if you need help

Rollin

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Thanks for all the input.

I have new valves on the way from Kurvey Girl.

While I was at it, I ordered a new set of tires. PP's I'll keep the front as a spare, but the rear was starting to show small tears. Seems like a good time to start fresh.

I haven't seen the Ducati valves that the dealer is selling. I too was concerned with their application to a Honda wheel. Looks like I could have used those supports Rosso referred to.

Switchblade: Do you think that failure resulted from overtorqueing?

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Those chrome tubular steel ones you show in the pics are terrible. They bend at speed and stress the rubber.

"Ducati valves" are a misnomer that some apply to the aluminum Bridgeport 83' valves.

For s Ducati application, the valves are 8.3mm, and other Italian bikes too.

Most Japanese bikes use the 11.3mm version of the Bridgeport valves.

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No worries about tire damage. If the failure was instantaneous, you didn't travel far enough to generate any damaging levels of flex and heat.

Go for the Bridgeport angled valve stems. Solid aluminum.

Glad to hear you kept 'Er upright!

http://kurveygirl.co...ath=169_237_233

BPVS001_01.jpg

I had one of these to fail a couple a weeks ago headed to meet Keb for a DRAGON run. The vavle itself broke inside the tire vavle.

Well I guess anything can break, but I've had no problems with mine so far.

And I've had them on for probably 5 years I'm guessing?

And it failed 3 weeks after mounting a set of Coni. Motions. Headed to 129 and the front steering started to fill real heavy. Pulled over and the front tire was all most flat. Hauled butt back home and started checking for a nail. No nail but when I went to put more air in the valve would not let the air chuck pass air. Took a magnifying glass and could see the valve itself had broken so tried to remove it with tire valve tool but the little shoulders for the tool to remove it were not there. Don’t know where they went.

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Wow, a full page of comments about Bridgeport 90-degree valve stems and NOT ONE person called them "Arietes". I feel my life's purpose has now been fulfilled! :tongue:

Both enthusiasts and motorcycle industry professionals have known for at least 15 years that those rubber-mounted 90-degree valve stems are poorly designed and subject to eventual total failure. Any bike shop that sells them is being negligent, whether they know it or not. They nearly killed you. (However, the 90mph-thing was probably a contributing factor...)

As for the rear valve stems, due to the VFR's brake caliper location they MUST be the short versions if straight rubber stems are used. A sudden deflation of the rear tire can also be catastrophic, but it's usually not as bad as the front, which can be fatal.

Ciao,

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Ariete-ventiel-en-velg_detail.jpg

Ariete veiligheids ventiel

code 11971: Ø 8.3mm

voor o.a. Antera, Brembo, Marchesini, Marvic & OZ racing wielen.

kleur zwart, prijs 24.95 inclusief BTW

Tuv TA-MAN-9084/03

code 11970: Ø 11.3mm

voor standaard wielen.

kleur zwart & zilver, prijs 29.95 inclusief BTW

Tuv TA-MAN-9084/03

Direct uit voorraad leverbaar.

bestel informatie

terug naar overzicht

Description:

ADVANTAGES OF VALVE 90°BY BRIDGEPORT : PRACTICAL AND SAFE

-- It is fixed to the rim with a lock nut, therefore it cannot bend nor be expelled from the rim.

-- It need not to be replaced every time the tyre is changed.

-- The angled quill reduces the effect of centrifugal force, which tends to fling the valve core outwards in a conventional valve, leading to loss of pressure in the tyre.

-- It completely solves the problem of access for inflation.

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Wow, a full page of comments about Bridgeport 90-degree valve stems and NOT ONE person called them "Arietes". I feel my life's purpose has now been fulfilled! :tongue:

Both enthusiasts and motorcycle industry professionals have known for at least 15 years that those rubber-mounted 90-degree valve stems are poorly designed and subject to eventual total failure. Any bike shop that sells them is being negligent, whether they know it or not. They nearly killed you. (However, the 90mph-thing was probably a contributing factor...)

As for the rear valve stems, due to the VFR's brake caliper location they MUST be the short versions if straight rubber stems are used. A sudden deflation of the rear tire can also be catastrophic, but it's usually not as bad as the front, which can be fatal.

Ciao,

Yeah its well known but for years I have put a small amount of all purpose 3m glue on the inner rim side and never had a failure.

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So it was not the Bridgeport stem that broke but the (replacable) valve core?

Yeah but dont know to get it out with shoulders gone.

I kept working at it with some pliers until the core was ripped out. Then an easy out to remove the threaded part.

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So I'm a little confused...I am using the 83 degree 11.3 mm Ariete (Bridgeport?) valve stems purchased from kurveygirl.com . Is there a problem? I run them on my VFR and ST1300 so far without incident.

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No problem if you don't go nuts on the core when you re-install. I have a Snap On preset torque core tool. I have a habit of double clicking when I use a regular torque wrench, but if I try to double tighten the core, it can break. So I try not to do that now. It's only 4 in/lbs setting, so no need to gorilla it!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=645218&group_ID=675697&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

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No problem if you don't go nuts on the core when you re-install. I have a Snap On preset torque core tool. I have a habit of double clicking when I use a regular torque wrench, but if I try to double tighten the core, it can break. So I try not to do that now. It's only 4 in/lbs setting, so no need to gorilla it!

http://buy1.snapon.c...ore&dir=catalog

I'm gettin me one.

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No problem if you don't go nuts on the core when you re-install. I have a Snap On preset torque core tool. I have a habit of double clicking when I use a regular torque wrench, but if I try to double tighten the core, it can break. So I try not to do that now. It's only 4 in/lbs setting, so no need to gorilla it!

http://buy1.snapon.c...ore&dir=catalog

Did you just mail order that? I've done hundreds (maybe even thousands) of tires in my life and never broke a core. With that being said I'll probably break the next one I do tonight (have 5 to do). New tools are cool to have though, so wouldn't mind picking one up. :smile:

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