Monk

I disagree, what you're describing is adjusted with the suspension set up. The only time I ride with a lower psi than 36/42 is in real cold weather, then I'll drop each tyre one pound. The air inside the tyre is going to stay the same to hold the tyres shape no matter what the wt. is.

I think when ppl say they lower the pressure for the track vs's the road, it needs to be explained why it's ok to run lower AP on the track, because most ppl that set their bikes/cars up as a track racer think nothing is different between the results. Just to start with, there is a big difference in how a prolonged race builds up more heat, than a on and off speed variance of the road.

Agree 36psi front, 42psi rear(set tyre pressure while tyres are in the shade outside and tyres are cold). If they(air) aren't correct you'll not be using the correct tyre profile, straight, or in the turns(forget your personnel wt. as far as the tyre is concerned). Set up your suspension sag for your wt.

I have the regular Lip........ and it works fine for me........... height my vary, for diff' ppl........

http://www.laminarlip.com/

What year is your MC ? There are shop manuals for most years on this forum. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/76-cam-chain-tensioner-without-throttle-body-removal/page-3?hl=%2Bcam+%2Btentioner#entry659853

If I may....... There will always be some that stick to the question and try to come up with a solution....... But, there are the rest that will use a thread to express their thoughts on a subject that may not even be close to the subject(guilty)....... And, once the problem is solved, the thread can keep going on for days, just because it's an interesting subject and no longer related to you, but just the variances of thought which can bring in some fun/dumb/etc. comments. Of course their are some that might attack you personally(which is not tolerated on this forum), And you handled that one well ! Just remember that all comments are coming from ppl that know what they're talking about, and of course there are also going to be ones that not only don't know what they're talking about, but didn't even bother to read the thread, but just chimed in on one post. But with most forums, this is one of the highest caliber forums available..... So far we're at 10 pages on how to change engine braking, pretty darn good. Thx for the thread.

I'm pretty sure there are a lot of Countries that use rulers, without naming them and p-ssing somebody off.

Looks good........ The main thing is to have it page you.......

Nice work.........

One of a kind.... I made them. There are others on the market Google " Hippo Hands " As said above you don't want them to close on your hands at speed.

They are made of a water resistant material and have ribs in front, and on top so they don't cave in under the pressure of wind at high speed........ Will have to admit they didn't come that way, I made them.

This type of cover does it best I've had heated grips and gloves(most of the eletric combos) and the covers keep the wind off, and if you have electric grips you'll have it all. but I haven't needed the grips with the covers. the thing about covers are that you can wear summer gloves and feel the controls.

Don't forget to ask about how many links you'll need after you figure out which size sprockets you're going to go with

Number 3 ... then wipe it down with down with WD-40 on a rag.

Me either........ Makes me wonder if cleaning the rotor with brake cleaner will remove the transfer........... At least I know what to look for (to see if the colour changes).

Also the "don't come to a complete stop while they're hot", was a good one. Glad it was useful, It was to me!

So..... Has the 93 peeps that viewed this, like it?

Here's a video of why and how to bed / burnish brake rotors and pads. I liked the whole vid, but if you want to cut to the chase, start at 11 min. in......... http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-rotors/post/Bed-in

OP.... Thx for the tips, good write up..........