Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 22, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2011 - Thanks for the diagram, that seals it for me. - I find the Roadstercycle quote also BS.... The last question mark for me is whether to stay with the connector to the stator. The NAPA pins that go with it are damn wimpy. My instinct is to toss them. Its kinda wierd contrast to all the beefy components that are on the R/R side... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 24, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 24, 2011 Those may not be the right pins? I think Mouser sells WeatherPack connectors and components. I've only used the Metri-Pack connectors (which use blade-type terminals), though, so I cannot say if those pins are the right ones or not. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 24, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 24, 2011 I bought them based on Coderighters thread. They are NAPA 725170. I really dont like 'em. I'm on the fence about using them, so kinda looking for alternates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 25, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2011 I bought them based on Coderighters thread. They are NAPA 725170. I really dont like 'em. I'm on the fence about using them, so kinda looking for alternates. I double checked and the connectors are rated for 20 amps. Here's a link to the info. http://www.whiteproducts.com/faqs.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted September 25, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2011 The Shindengen R/R's that start with FH are referred to as "Series" in various places. These are on all the new bikes from the factory. FH012 is the famous R1 R/R, FH010 is, I believe, on the ZX10, and there is a CBR model that uses a pig-tail connection rather than plug directly into the unit. It's FH-something. I have no idea how they relate to the Compufire units, as far as function... The FH model regulators are still "shunt" regulators. They just MOSFET-based shunt circuits which can handle more amps and perform the shunt switching process faster, but they operate on the same principle as the SH model regulators, in that the stator is always producing power. The switching regulators (why they're calling them "series" I don't know) turn the stator on and off as power is required or not. It's much less stress on the stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 The Shindengen R/R's that start with FH are referred to as "Series" in various places. These are on all the new bikes from the factory. FH012 is the famous R1 R/R, FH010 is, I believe, on the ZX10, and there is a CBR model that uses a pig-tail connection rather than plug directly into the unit. It's FH-something. I have no idea how they relate to the Compufire units, as far as function... The FH model regulators are still "shunt" regulators. They just MOSFET-based shunt circuits which can handle more amps and perform the shunt switching process faster, but they operate on the same principle as the SH model regulators, in that the stator is always producing power. The switching regulators (why they're calling them "series" I don't know) turn the stator on and off as power is required or not. It's much less stress on the stator. where is your long term proof, I havent seen it yet? its all therory, from what Ive seen these these things, provide lower voltage, and entail will have to run more current or they will under power the electrical sytem, with alot of electrical load. The oem system will adjust voltage when needed, if the system is working properly, that feature is disabled with this aftermarket product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted September 25, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2011 The Shindengen R/R's that start with FH are referred to as "Series" in various places. These are on all the new bikes from the factory. FH012 is the famous R1 R/R, FH010 is, I believe, on the ZX10, and there is a CBR model that uses a pig-tail connection rather than plug directly into the unit. It's FH-something. I have no idea how they relate to the Compufire units, as far as function... The FH model regulators are still "shunt" regulators. They just MOSFET-based shunt circuits which can handle more amps and perform the shunt switching process faster, but they operate on the same principle as the SH model regulators, in that the stator is always producing power. The switching regulators (why they're calling them "series" I don't know) turn the stator on and off as power is required or not. It's much less stress on the stator. Oh, ok. My mistake. Mixed up the terminology. Bunch of them (terms, lingo, etc) flying around this situation over multiple forums and lots of threads. Plus I'm in no way at all fluent in any if this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted September 25, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 25, 2011 Excuse the blunt questions, just getting an understanding... The switching regulators (why they're calling them "series" I don't know) turn the stator on and off as power is required or not. It's much less stress on the stator. How does it do that? Does the stator stop spinning? Or is power diverted elsewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 My understanding is that it disconnects the stator from the rest of the electrical system. Hence the name "switching" regulator. It "switches" the supply from the stator off. The rotor still spins, the magnetic field is still being produced, but the resultant electricity has nowhere to go, as there is no load being applied. No load = no heat. (As opposed to shunting excess current to ground as in a shunt type regulator, which is all heat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 26, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2011 Try this thread: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160360&highlight=Compufire&page=21 Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Were shunting huge wattage to ground? the vfr doesnt have that much over wattage, especially if your even running a single electrical appliance, like an RD, GPS ect. Add in some electric clothes, your going to need every damn watt that stator can produce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted September 26, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 26, 2011 Oil cooling (from that linked Aprilia thread) is an interesting option. I'd have thought engine oil would run warmer than the R/R anyway. Seems to me that would just keep it at a consistently warm to hot temp. My thoughts ran more towards an independent water cooling. Maybe used to reduce overall tail heat at the same time? Or just try the Compufire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Were shunting huge wattage to ground? the vfr doesnt have that much over wattage, especially if your even running a single electrical appliance, like an RD, GPS ect. Add in some electric clothes, your going to need every damn watt that stator can produce. Maybe you don't realize just how little power a radar detector and GPS take? Valentine v1 = 425 mA max Zumo 550 = 1.08 amp max If your VFR is struggling to provide 1 amp, you have serious electrical problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Were shunting huge wattage to ground? the vfr doesnt have that much over wattage, especially if your even running a single electrical appliance, like an RD, GPS ect. Add in some electric clothes, your going to need every damn watt that stator can produce. Maybe you don't realize just how little power a radar detector and GPS take? Valentine v1 = 425 mA max Zumo 550 = 1.08 amp max If your VFR is struggling to provide 1 amp, you have serious electrical problems. A v1 doesnt do half of what my STI does, it eats much more watts MY point is , My RR runs extremely cool to the Nakid hand even in Post 100 degree, Yeah I have serious electrical issues LOL what a Joke , but thanks for the laugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted September 27, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2011 Guess I can blame my lack of problems on Gerbings, and heated grips? Not that I haven't had problems, but not as persistent as many here. It seems a lot of my problems went away when I simply zip-tied the Hitachi connectors to the frame so they can't move..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 27, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 27, 2011 The Shindengen R/R's that start with FH are referred to as "Series" in various places. These are on all the new bikes from the factory. FH012 is the famous R1 R/R, FH010 is, I believe, on the ZX10, and there is a CBR model that uses a pig-tail connection rather than plug directly into the unit. It's FH-something. I have no idea how they relate to the Compufire units, as far as function... The FH model regulators are still "shunt" regulators. They just MOSFET-based shunt circuits which can handle more amps and perform the shunt switching process faster, but they operate on the same principle as the SH model regulators, in that the stator is always producing power. The switching regulators (why they're calling them "series" I don't know) turn the stator on and off as power is required or not. It's much less stress on the stator. where is your long term proof, I havent seen it yet? its all therory, from what Ive seen these these things, provide lower voltage, and entail will have to run more current or they will under power the electrical sytem, with alot of electrical load. The oem system will adjust voltage when needed, if the system is working properly, that feature is disabled with this aftermarket product. With the OEM R/R, the stator is suppling full load, 497 watts @ 5000 RPM. If the bike only needs, say, 350 watts (should be about normal) then the remainder, 147 watts, are shunted to ground to control the voltage. With the CompuFire, if the bike needs 350 watts the stator only provides 350 watts. I'm running HID's and LED's so my draw is much less, around 280 watts. With the OEM R/R, that would have meant that what I was saving would just get shunted to ground. With the Compufire, I'm putting less load on the stator / engine and making a lot less heat. My OEM ran 15 volts @ 4500 rpm, not really very battery friendly. The Compufire runs a solid 14.25 volts anywhere above 2200 RPM, very good for a long battery life and more than enough for the bike in general. I have almost 3000 miles on my CompuFire, it runs very cool and the bike seems to run cooler. I for see a long life for my stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 It would be interesting to see if there are noticeable horsepower improvements on a dyno between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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